tolsen

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Everything posted by tolsen

  1. Ignorance is the cause. Don’t buy any unSmart car and you will not suffer any such trouble.
  2. The nozzles can indeed be replaced and their price is well within reach about £50 each. Obviousy it is important that right type nozzle is fitted and that is part of the reasons for starting this thread. There are several videos on youtube where mechanics, both DIYs and "professionals", some having doubtful knowledge about injectors, explain in detail how these nozzles are replaced. Here is one that thinks he knows how it is done. Rather unsmart of him in my humble opinion to lap in mating surfaces using sand paper. Watch, learn and enjoy:
  3. Can this be done? Similar experience as the real thing. Drink your own beer or alcohol of your choice and a lot cheaper than dangerous pub prices. Chat and banter as in the pub. 100% Corona safe. No driving hence no risk of loosing licence. Can discuss Smart and UnSmart things. This is no joke but something we urgently need just now or we may all soon go insane. Get your brains spinning folks.
  4. HCL is not that easy to source so go for standard brick cleaner of highest strength.
  5. Look for wear marks on wiring harness and exposed green oxidised copper. I repair harness by soldering. You will need hydrochloric acid solution about 10% to clean the copper strands making up each cable. The strands will normally have gone completely black from end to end so no solder will wet them making soldering impossible unless cleaned with HCL acid.
  6. You have also touched wiring harness which if was bad before could now have become worse.
  7. Transmission rpm sensor is very reliable. I have never seen one fail yet.
  8. Cable damage due to bad cable clamping and vibration is very common, easily diagnosed and fixed.
  9. I came accross TrackAce many years ago when sourcing parts for an identical laser tracking system I had had in my head for years then finding out someone had already done it and brought it to market. TrackAce measures total toe as does all wheel aligning kits costing less than £3000. To make 4 wheel alignment possible and to easily balance toe each side I have complemented TrackAce with a cheap laser spirit level and a lean to target. Will follow up with photos of this setup soon. Got plenty of spare time now due to the Corona situation.
  10. For wheel alignment, just invest in TrackAce. http://www.trackace.co.uk/
  11. There is little point setting clutch bite point electronically assuming it was done correctly at factory. Protect clutch actuator from the elements by painting it and applying rubber grease or silicone grease to areas where rubber boot seals against rod and actuator body. Grease outer socket of release fork and preload clutch actuator as per Sachs’ service info.
  12. I acquired my clipper kit from the local dump. Was intact and boxed. Came with a VHS tuition video as well. Safe enough then as no Corona worries.
  13. More examples of successful removal of sheared bolts. Sheared M8 bolt removed from an Iseki tractor exhaust. This bolt had sheared flush with surface. Was short of M10 nuts so used M8 nut bored out to 9mm and chamfered using 11.5mm drill. MIG is easiest but MMA also fine.
  14. Best way to remove sheared bolts is welding a chamfered nut to what remains of bolt. Use next size up of nut For M6 bolt use M8 nut etc.
  15. I would remove steering wheel and check if clock spring is correctly aligned. 1) Steering dead straight. 2) Slacken off and wind out screw that holds steering wheel to steering column. 3) If all is correct, screw should enter slot in clock spring and lock clock spring in place.
  16. Mine has easily accessible grease injection points at each pivot. I can grease as often as I like but normally no more frequent than at each oil change.
  17. The usual owner inflicted damage due to ignorance and neglect in my humble opinion.
  18. I can see the end of Trump. I bet a pint he will be gone by June.
  19. @ Edwin52. Calliper pins and bores really should be cleaned and then greased using a special non mineral grease that does not make rubber swell. I use a special silicone grease which is approved for food processing machinery. May post details of this special grease one fine day. Remove brake pads and try spinning wheel without them. Grip wheel 6 and 12 o'clock and feel for play. No worries if you cannot identify the bearing noise. It will soon become nearly unbarable so easier to detect where from later.
  20. I noticed my driver side front bearing had a wee bit of rumble. Mandatory vehicle annual inspection (MOT) is due soon so had to engineer a fix. Dug out my old front bearings and dismantled both, cleaned all parts and carried out a thorough inspection. Inner inboard race rings were worn due to ingress of water. Outer inboard race rings were still fine. All outboard race rings looked like new. The plan: Make one good bearing out of the two knackered bearings. There are two inner race rings in the front bearing, an inboard ring and an outboard ring. These are identical so all I needed do was this: [*]Decide which of the two outer bearing units to use. [*]Scrap the inboard inner race ring. Use the two good outboard inner race rings complete with balls and ball retaining rings in the rebuilt bearing. [*]Additionally, modify the bearing for oil lubrication as opposed to grease. Internals of the bearing have been cleaned and are ready for reassembly: This is how the outer bearing unit looks like inside when internals are removed: Bearing has been assembled. It is important to add grease between the two lips on the elastomer seal on inboard side. The grease prevents the environmental lip running dry. Note that I have not fitted the steel dust seal. This is not required as the bearing is modified for oil lubrication: Bearing caps are modified with assistance of the Queen. The coins are silver brazed to the caps. Caps are later centre bored and tapped M4. These are "modern" two pence coins made out of steel with very thin external copper plating: Bearing has been fitted on driver side of Smart. Note the machine screw in centre of bearing cap. The hole where the screw sits is used for filling oil into the bearing. I used EP90 GL5 gear oil. Filled to bottom of filler hole: The rebuilt bearing spins without any noise or rumble. Oil can be added with ease at any time. My initial plan was to fit a grease nipple in the bearing cap but the grease nipple interfered with the centre cap in the wheel and there was a risk that the high pressure of the grease gun would push the elastomer seal off the bearing. Gear oil is a much better lubricant and having a filler hole and level makes servicing a lot easier. Only time will tell whether this oil lube modification was worthwhile. I did the other side as well when I was at it.
  21. The one to the rear was one I dug three weeks ago. The two in front are more recent within last three days. Next time I will exercise proper care when cutting the turf so I can put it back.
  22. Yes the 451 front wheel bearing is pressed in therefore requiring both special tools and skills to replace provided you can source a bare bearing.
  23. You are no photographer and you have dirty fingers. How about getting your pictures in focus? Blurred photos are worse than none.