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Everything posted by tolsen

  1. Actual position is not that critical and should be ok if fitted near original position since the 451 clutch actuator adjusts itself automatically.
  2. Perhaps less wind resistance with vertically parked wiper arms? Improved fuel mileage?
  3. I saw lots of those universal o-ring kits on Transocean oil rigs. Very handy in emergency situations when the proper o-rings are not available. You just cut the rubber at 45 degrees and stick the two ends together with superglue and pray it will hold. Now doubt Transocean used copious amounts of those DIY o-rings in the blowout preventer of the Deepwater Horizon.
  4. A freewheel pulley allows the alternator to continue spinning on its own inertia whilst engine is slowing down in preparation for a gear change. This results in less load on auxiliary drive belt and faster gear changes. Some claim they also improve fuel consumption. Pulley on the left is original pulley from my 2002 Smart 450 Cabrio Cdi and now very much worn. Pulley on the right came from a Renault, unsure which model and year. This pulley is a freewheel pulley made by INA. Original pulley has 5 grooves. This INA pulley has 6 grooves. No real problem, only have to ensure belt is in right grooves and correctly aligned. Diameters measured over top of ridges: Original pulley when new 54.2 mm. This INA freewheel pulley 55.7 mm. I had to machine the new pulley to make it align crank shaft pulley. Removed 1.1 mm where pulley faces alternator. Nowhere in WIS could I find any torque specification for alternator pulleys. Google also no good for same so I checked Renault Dialogys and found specified torque is 8.2 daNm. Freewheel pulley fitted on alternator. Protective cap fitted. Existing belt was in a poor state so I fitted an older used belt in a slightly better condition. Road test: Noticably faster gear changes shifting up. No change shifting down. Why faster gear changes shifting up? The high inertia of a fast spinning alternator with standard pulley will slow down (resist) speed changes of the wee Smart engine. A freewheel pulley allows alternator to continue spinning on its own inertia because decoupled from engine when engine slows down. Engine can therefore reduce its rotational speed faster.
  5. It is o-ring seals on short pup pipes between pump body and head that fail. Mine suffered this problem more than a decade ago. Happened in Arnisdale where the father of James Bond Ian Fleming used to live. Arnisdale is one of the remotest parts of UK. Gavin Maxwell also lived there supping whisky and writing the book rings of bright water.
  6. Same brake shoes all Smart 450/451&452 models.
  7. A Smart 450 Cdi is perfect for towing. Some years ago I used my Smart to transport 50 tonnes of top soil a distance of 35 km and from 50 m above sea level to 800 m above sea level. The initial plan was to haul using a Suzuki Ignis all wheel drive but found the Ignis could not haul the one tonne load up the steep hills. No problem for the Smart. Hauled up the steepest inclines in 2nd gear. Made a total of 50 trips.
  8. We discussed swivel trailers a year ago. They are dangerous contraptions in my humble opinion.
  9. I think someone poked that hole with a flat bladed screw driver. When repairing it is advisable to apply vacuum to intercooler thereby sucking sealant through hole for a good permanent repair.
  10. I can’t see the slotted hole in your photo but leaking intercooler is very common. Smart redesigned the support cradle around 2006 by removing about 5 mm from lower transverse support member of cradle. A rather poor fix but it works. They did not beef up the sides to compensate something I did to my support cradle. The leak can be fixed by injecting a suitable sealant into the holes.
  11. Easiest fix is conventional control of starter.
  12. It is a Smart that does not exist. A four2.
  13. Forgot to add mine has done more than 250,000 km mainly problem free except when it was being serviced by Smart.
  14. I use the cheapest synthetic oil I can source. Usually supermarket oils for £10 for five litres. Mostly 5w-40 but also the cheaper 15w-40 sometimes. A bonus if the oil I use meets MB’s spec but that is rarely. I also reuse oil from other cars mainly from petrol cars.
  15. Mine is called Smart. The Smartest car I have ever owned. Has also been particularly reliable after I started doing servicing and maintenance myself.
  16. Can be done but require special skills that very few of us possess. Of course I have opened out mine to look inside. Now running on a new friction plate that someone sent me for free. I advise against opening out clutch assembly unless you are a rear enthusiast and have the required patience and skills.
  17. Older Cdi Smart cars like mine are not obd compliant hence require either Star or WinStar.
  18. I always clean up stub axle using an emery cloth. Bearing then slides on and no persuasion is needed.
  19. I bet they knocked the bearings on with a hammer causing bearing damage whilst fitting.
  20. No special skills are needed to replace these bearings so why loose so much blood?
  21. Only dealer can get code from radio serial number. Buy a new radio. Sell old on eBay.
  22. Two rings sold. Eight to go.
  23. This is a not for profit service to Clubsmartcar members only. £2.10 per ABS ring. Regrettably postage prices have rocketed after Royal Mail was privatised. Postage and packaging fees non tracked air mail: Two rings £5. Four rings £7. Six rings £9. Inner diameter 68.70 mm. Width 10.6 mm. Outer diameter 81.0 mm. Number of teeth 42. I only have ten rings. Payment by PayPal gift or similar nil cost transfer. You can contact me by using the forum message service.
  24. Forgot to state these are J&R rings. The best you can buy.
  25. I noticed my driver side front bearing had a wee bit of rumble. Mandatory vehicle annual inspection (MOT) is due soon so had to engineer a fix. Dug out my old front bearings and dismantled both, cleaned all parts and carried out a thorough inspection. Inner inboard race rings were worn due to ingress of water. Outer inboard race rings were still fine. All outboard race rings looked like new. The plan: Make one good bearing out of the two knackered bearings. There are two inner race rings in the front bearing, an inboard ring and an outboard ring. These are identical so all I needed do was this: [*]Decide which of the two outer bearing units to use. [*]Scrap the inboard inner race ring. Use the two good outboard inner race rings complete with balls and ball retaining rings in the rebuilt bearing. [*]Additionally, modify the bearing for oil lubrication as opposed to grease. Internals of the bearing have been cleaned and are ready for reassembly: This is how the outer bearing unit looks like inside when internals are removed: Bearing has been assembled. It is important to add grease between the two lips on the elastomer seal on inboard side. The grease prevents the environmental lip running dry. Note that I have not fitted the steel dust seal. This is not required as the bearing is modified for oil lubrication: Bearing caps are modified with assistance of the Queen. The coins are silver brazed to the caps. Caps are later centre bored and tapped M4. These are "modern" two pence coins made out of steel with very thin external copper plating: Bearing has been fitted on driver side of Smart. Note the machine screw in centre of bearing cap. The hole where the screw sits is used for filling oil into the bearing. I used EP90 GL5 gear oil. Filled to bottom of filler hole: The rebuilt bearing spins without any noise or rumble. Oil can be added with ease at any time. My initial plan was to fit a grease nipple in the bearing cap but the grease nipple interfered with the centre cap in the wheel and there was a risk that the high pressure of the grease gun would push the elastomer seal off the bearing. Gear oil is a much better lubricant and having a filler hole and level makes servicing a lot easier. Only time will tell whether this oil lube modification was worthwhile. I did the other side as well when I was at it.