tolsen

There are no wider tyres that will fit your existing rims so just forget about it.

Get your head under your car and observe and listen to alternator/ water pump drive belt whilst an assistant operates starter. Alternator is prone to getting seized up. You can unseize by working alternator on its pulley nut.

Wrong injector coding does not cause such major change in engine power. Uneven idle perhaps and less smooth running at higher revs when under load. Sounds more like someone has not exercised the required cleanliness procedures thereby having contaminated the whole fuel system and caused irreversible damage to injectors.

Max boost pressure is 1.2 bar or 17.5 psi. Higher boost will get engine into a limp mode and you have to erase DTC for engine to run normally. A 2005 model may have a leaking charge air cooler since the modified charge cooler cradle came around end of 2006. The leak is at the bottom where support cradle cuts through, see below link for details: http://forum.onsmart.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3070 Since you appear to have no DTC, I am inclined to believe the problem is caused by a leaking EGR valve. Some clever guys came up with ingenious special tools to allow you to carry out a proper EGR clean in situ. You could also blank off exhaust supply to EGR valve and avoid EGR valve trouble in the future. http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=25458

Wishbone bushes are not available from Smart.

My wishbone bushes were really bad: 4 bad bushes and 1 brand new. Beware of cheap after market wishbones. All those I've seen so far give you totally wrong wheel geometry (7.5 degrees difference in angle of tapered hole for bottom ball joint and -22 minutes change in Camber per wheel).

Good nobody seems to have been hurt. Have you identified what triggered the accidental deployment yet?

Mine has had both pipes leaking. Not expensive at all from Smart but rather than cycle to town on a push bike, I just weld repaired the existing pipes plus added several coats of protective paint. I suggest you replace your oil sounding tube same time. Sounding tube tends to suffer from pitting corrosion at the bottom where exposed to the elements.

Only bearings and seals are available for the KP31. Impossible to source OEM core assembly, bearing housing or rotor assembly. Rotor assemblies can be sourced from China but who wants to be first?

What kind of leak? Oil? Oil leaking where? Is there smoke from exhaust and does exhaust smell of oil? Turbo itself may not be the root of your problem. The seals inside turbo are not really oil seals. They are there to prevent exhaust gas blowing into bearing housing and likewise not blowing air from compressor side into bearing housing. The oil is drained be gravity back to sump. A restriction in turbo oil drain pipe or excessive crank case pressure cause bearing housing to become pressurised with oil and the oil got to go somewhere. Perhaps some oil leaks past ring seal on turbine side and drips into the hot exhaust pipe causing white or blue smoke.Oil leak into air intake on compressor wheel side may be caused by insufficient vacuum in TIK pipe. I've seen people modify their inlet duct, fitting free flow air filters and larger TIK pipes thereby reducing TIK pipe vacuum. Result is that there won't be enough vacuum to vent crankcase. Oil drain out of turbo becomes less effective and oil level in turbo bearing housing gets too high causing leaks into exhaust pipe or inlet duct.Existing oil drain passage from return hose to sump is very poor and can be significantly improved by grinding or filing, at least remove any burrs. Require sump to be removed to clean up filings etc.

Mine leaked quite badly on compressor side. Black streaks of leaking oil are quite visible. First thing to check is inlet duct up to turbo. Too much of a vacuum and oil will be lost. Also, excessive idling of engine will result in oil being lost through seal on compressor side. Note that turbo boost and exhaust pressures balances oil pressure in turbo bearing housing. That is why a turbo may leak oil at idle and seal at high boost. On inspection of seal on compressor side, I concluded there was excessive clearance in the piston ring groove. Cut a second piston ring groove and assembled turbo with two piston ring seals on compressor side: Original piston ring was a rather loose fit in its groove. Cut the new groove with an axial play of 0.02 mm. Seal on left hand side is from my old knackered turbo and donor of piston ring for second ring groove. Removing these tiny cast iron piston rings is rather tricky as they snap off easily. Having tried various methods and Googled in vain for advice I made a special tool that worked a treat: Spanish piston ring seal fitting and removal tool. Made in 5 minutes with a file. Can easily be improved by added a bolt and nut to limit extent of piston ring expansion. Assembled turbo ready to be fitted in my Smart. I did this repair during first week of May this year. Not surprisingly, the repair turned out to be a great success. Charge air cooler is again reasonably free of oil and dip stick oil level is constant just 3 mm below max mark. This is my optimum oil level, keeping oil level lower will result in less oil carry over to charge air cooler from breather and turbo but I prefer to keep as much oil in the pan as possible to increase cooling.

Further details and perhaps a photo or two would be very much appreciated.

Yes, started by mining copper and tin ore.

G.K. Industries GF1916 fuel filter seems to be the least expensive after market replacement filter in North America. Water sensor is removed from old filter and fitted onto the new. Wetting o-rings in diesel fuel makes it easier to slide sensor into filter housing. Note the pipe next to business end of sensor. This pipe goes all the way to bottom of filter and its purpose is clearly to allow water to be drained by opening the thumb nut. Perhaps there is sufficient stored pressure in low pressure fuel system to force water out just by opening the thumb nut without running low pressure pump? Has anyone tried?

I've seen owners in Europe have been searching in vain for the special fuel filter connector. Only available from Smart with fuel line. Judging by Smartferrari's photo, it looks like it is possible to drain water from filter by opening the thumb nut seen in centre of below photo: Perhaps connect a suitable piece of transparent hose and place end in a clear jar. Support filter so it is level and water collects in the bottom. Open thumb nut and briefly switch on ignition to force water out. You need a special "Clic" fitting and release tool to reuse those hose clips. http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=22622 The filter unit is available from MANN over here for around GBP 25. MANN part number WK842/ 23x.

2.5 bar gauge pressure.

I used a German supermarket equivalent to smooth gloss Hammerite metal paint. Applied about 6 or 7 coats in total. Black paint mixed with a table spoon of white to give a very dark grey finish. Used cellulose thinner to make paint suitable for spraying. Dash has to be removed from car and be separated as made out of two parts. Impossible to do in situ.

I can see someone squatting. Is that you Z1K?

I didn't exactly do this today but did it quite recently. After having clocked more than 170,600 km, I am worried clutch actuator rod may soon punch through the fork as seen in below photo: Of course, the Smart becomes completely immobile when above happens. My fork is still OK but socket is very much worn. Corrosion and erosion are deemed to be the main causes for socket wear. Clutch actuator rod and a piece of 1/2" marine bronze solid rod. Note that I've painted actuator rod in special black actuator rod enamel. Rust forming in centre reduced diameter area of rod allows water to penetrate into clutch actuatator housing. Paint protects steel so less chance of rust and water ingress. Water also enters clutch actuator housing between seal and actuator housing. I coat the mating area in silicon grease and fit a tie wrap to ensure rubber seal stays on. Normal grease causes rubber seal to swell. Modified clutch actuator rod before painting. Note plating and pitting corrosion on actuator side of groove - proof water has once entered actuator via the groove. Contact area with fork socket has been increased by 61%. Bronze tip is held on to rod by an interference fit. There is much less friction between steel and bronze so should reduce wear rate significantly. Additionally, I have centre bored end of rod and drilled a radial grease point. Grease can now be injected directly to the contact point using an Oregon chain saw bar grease gun or similar.

Panels are stream Green paint code C43L. Unsure what the matching fabric is called. Could be Twister Green or something entirely different. Dash was particularly faded and the reflection from it in the wind shield was annoying me so something had to be done.

Well spotted KL. Above photos are mirror image. I was fed up getting comments on UK forums that mine is a just cheap LHD foreign import.

I removed mine and washed it in the bath tub with water and washing up liquid. Then spray painted the whole dash in gloss dark grey paint. Before spraying. After spraying. Fitted. Took more than 3 weeks for the strong reek of paint to go away. The smell was particularly bad when turning heating up.

Which two wires?

Must have been tiredness indeed.You won't get any current flowing by connecting from 12 V plus to 12V plus, hence main reason why your LED strip did not light.Ground is ground and at same level.Just connect your LED strip to the wires listed in my previous post. LED lights will stay lit when ignition is on. No major problem as current will be rather low. Also, the 12 V ignition switched supply to the window switches serve no function on the Smart. Was originally intended to provide switch LED illumination but switches contain no LEDs.

Black with yellow stripe cable to window switches on doors is ignition switched +12 volt. Brown cable to window switches is earth. There is no existing cable in the doors that is switched +12 volt when interior or exterior lights are turned on.