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Everything posted by tolsen

  1. The only thing remaing to check now is main cable from battery plus to starter. Unlikely that is fubarred but you never know.
  2. You mean you tried jump lead from battery negative to transmission or engine block?
  3. Try this: Run jump lead from battery negative to transmission or engine block. Then try to start.
  4. Neil tried running starter by hotwiring to fuse and relay box below seat (which the Canadian Smart 450 does not have) and same problem, just clicks and three bars on dash. It was this that made me conclude at the time that starter had to be faulty. Regrettably, now with a brand new starter, problem is still just as before. At least one can now rule starter out but not its wiring. Earth strap from transmission to chassis I believe has been replaced. Perhaps too small section area? Neil stated somewhere that he could see engine and wheels moving a small increment for each click of starter. This is why in my previous post I asked Neil to confirm that transmission really is in neutral when neutral is indicating on dash. If car is not in neutral, I would have expected starter to have enough torque to move car either forward or in reverse at least when hotwiring. Is this proof that we are indeed dealing with bad contact in main positive cable from battery to starter or relevant earth leads?
  5. Is the loud click coming from starter relay on starter? Can car roll when neutral is indicating on dash? Park in neutral and turn ignition off. Then push car to confirm. Can you check if original starter turns? Just connected to a battery and use screw driver or something to energise its solenoid. I guess nothing is wrong with that starter. Problem is elsewhere.
  6. I stated earlier in this thread that OP's Smart is not a 2006 model but made in 2002 or earlier hence not OBD compliant. Standard OBD code readers are therefore of no use. Can you please post a video of speedo and instrumentation when you turn ignition key to start?
  7. I have a really elegant and very cheap solution to the towing problem: I drive the camper whilst my wife drives the Smart. We use two way radios for communication.
  8. A wee note on soldering carbon brush leads. Unless proper precautions are made, the short copper leads will wick solder just like solder wick and make the leads stiff and unserviceable. With suitable pliers hold and pinch each lead when soldering. This will limit the wicking action to the pinch point leaving rest of lead flexible.
  9. Many thanks for posting those crisp clear photos. Looks like you have cleaned motor in a sonic cleaner? Question: Are there 14 copper segments making up commutator? I am asking just to confirm Evilution stating there are 14 encoder cycles per revolution, hence the encoder must be using the commutator segments to produce the two square wave signals. I cannot see any sign of corrosion so looks like water ingress can be ruled out at least for the second motor. Could problem with first motor be bad batch of carbon brushes? If so why is the second motor in an apparently much better condition? Did I read somewhere you stated one bearing was bad in first motor? Perhaps brushes have overheated due to excessive bearing friction?
  10. I suggest you remove engine hatch and listen nearer engine. Perhaps also remove oil filler cap to check if noise becomes more audable.
  11. Go to Evilution. Search "Break in". Scroll down and click on "Break In - Fortwo 450". You will need to pay the annual subscription to view the details currently around £15.
  12. It appears C class Mercs also use same plug on their window regulators. Part number for above plug with cable and white plug at other end is A2035403705. Note the two grooves in inner part of plug. Socket in the 450 clutch actuator has tabs in same position making it very difficult to fit plug wrong way. I have confirmed above plug fits the 450. You need to check yourself if it is suitable for your 451. The terminals can easily be pulled out with help of a two prong release tool.
  13. From vague memory price for plug without terminals was just under £5. Terminals with seal and short length of cable were about £1 each. Research parts system for window regulator wiring for a W211 Mercedes and you should find the part numbers.
  14. Missing the outer skirt on connector plug is not good for keeping the elements out of socket. Regarding part numbers for repair connector housing and terminals, I researched that many years ago and posted the part numbers on several Smart forums at the time. Of course now when needed I just cannot find those posts.
  15. Connector plug for clutch actuator only fits one way. Its mating rectangular socket has square corners facing motor and round corners away from motor. Therefore not possible to insert plug incorrectly unless knocked in with a hammer. Replacement connector and repair terminals are available from Mercedes as plug is also used in other Mercedes cars.
  16. Good news. Hope present condition will remain permanent. I am pretty sure the normally closed switch inside brake light switch has no wired connection to any wheel speed sensor. I therefore conclude, as I indicated in my first post, that short in right rear wheel speed wiring was either tin whisker or trapped and shorted wiring.
  17. Replacing outer door handle cable is easy. Replacing inner door handle cable requires removal of door card and outer door panel. Smart only sells outer door handle cable with door handle. Inner cable is available and not expensive.
  18. Tin whiskers: Regrettably you will need subsription to view it all.
  19. Heat shield inboard on rear valance could have come loose causing quite a racket.
  20. I think the black box is an insurance gadget which can check whether you are a smart or unsmart driver.
  21. Study photo if a disassembled rear Smart 450 wheel bearing:
  22. My engine has done more than 260,000 km which is twice of Willys' and runs fine requiring no overhaul yet.
  23. Rear axle bolt also holds rear wheel bearing together and if bolt comes loose you may loose your rear roadwheel. The torque is not particularly high and the only tool I use to crack them loose is a socket, extension and a ratchet. I suggest you eat more porridge if you struggle with that bolt. Engine pulley bolt is torqued much higher, allegedly to 140Nm + 90° angle turn. You can exercise and gain strength on that one.
  24. Could be tin whiskers inside ESP unit shorting rigth rear side out or cable harness being trapped. There is ESP unit pinout on Evilution.
  25. Try freeing alternator. Normally quite easy. Due to their exposure to the elements, alternators on Smart cars tend to seize if car has been sitting for two to three weeks and brand new alternators are no better. You can buy sump with drain plug for about £18 if you live in the EU. Sucking the oil out with a Pela suction pump works reasonably well too.