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Everything posted by tolsen

  1. Just use impact gun to breake loose top strut nut. That can also be done without removing front panels hence rather quick and easy method for strut removal.
  2. And, had you been sufficiently Smart you would have replaced release fork same time as clutch flywheel assembly and greased all sockets and release fork guide tube.
  3. There should be no axial play between tip of clutch actuator rod and release fork socket. Make sure you grease release fork socket too.
  4. After clutch replacement, you only need to manually preload clutch actuator against release fork.
  5. An unbearable noise most likely and gradually getting worse. I’ll reinstate the photos by tomorrow. Was caused by postimage having to change their web address.
  6. Not as easy as that unless on a brand new 450. Original bolts for both steering and lower ball joints on my 450 had female Torx heads. These were rusted beyond recognition so no bit would fit. Had to drill their heads off and knock them out. My replacement bolts and nuts are stainless steel. Yes, I fitted bolts for lower ball joint from inboard. Tried same on steering ball joint but did not work as the nylock nuts touched brake disc.
  7. I replaced a knackered left hand side lower ball joint. As I am particularly Smart, I did this without unbolting caliper, brake disc, wheel bearing and splash guard which normally must come off to pull the two bolts holding lower ball joint to steering knuckle. Rubber boot had split on the joint allowing water and dirt getting inside ball joint causing accelerated wear. Joint had about two mm of play.
  8. You need TAN code when teaching in keys with MB Star and many other Star operations too. star&mod=1204 Better setting up Star for TAN free coding.
  9. Procedure is same. Reason for 98-04 is my 02 Smart Cabrio is selected.
  10. Key learning procedure:
  11. Forgot to mention there is a special tigthening sequence when tightening the four subframe bolts: First left forward, second right forward and either of the two rear bolts last. Reason. Inspect top surface of subframe around fixing holes whilst lowered and you will see why. Why fit freewheel pulley:
  12. Evilution has lots of info for the petrol 450 and the diesel is similar. A few notes: 1) Do not remove lower shock absorber bolt as stated in one or more of the guides as risk of damaging left side drive shaft inboard boot if rear axle drops too far. 2) Those that are sufficiently Smart do not need the special lowering pins. Instead place the long rear subframe bolts in forward holes, then lower subframe on trolley jack. Support rear end of subframe on some wooden posts which you need to cut to length so keep a saw ready for that. Knock a nail into top end of both wooden posts and perhaps bend nail 90 degrees. This so you can hang each post from a rear mounting hole in subframe. 3) On the diesel, the spider that holds flywheel to crank shaft has four M10 bolts fixing flywheel to spider. The petrol has only three. 4) You have to remove EGR valve. How to do that will be obvious. 5) Of course rear panels must come off too and Evilution tells you how. 6) Flywheel is dowel indexed to spider. Get this wrong and engine won't start. 7) The job will easily take two days perhaps longer if this is your first attempt. Why do you wish to change your clutch? Are you sure it is worn out or damaged? I recommend you change clutch release fork same time as its socket is prone to being holed by clutch actuator rod. You could do like me and just build up the socket with weld for extra long life. Grease socket peridically. Also ensure you preload clutch acuator so take up any slack in the mechanism. Wish you good luck. PS. Fit freewheel pulley on alternator when you soon will have good access to alternator. Engine will run smoother, faster gear changes up, faster acceleration and improved fuel mileage.
  13. I rode my Smart to Aberdeen and back home enjoying precise rattle free steering. The roads here are full of potholes so I conclude my UJ mod done a few days ago and reported in this thread was another great success.
  14. I always turn engine around by hand to feel if there is any compression. With valve cover off you will then identify when each cyliner is on its compression stroke.
  15. MB Star diagnostics can check cylinder compression indirectly. It does it by analysing changes in angular acceleration for each cylinder. Low compression on a cylinder means the negative angular acceleration on its compression stroke will be less compared to a good cylinder. Star can't read actual compression in bar but gives you relative figures. Very handy for fault finding unSmart no start problems etc owning an MB Star.
  16. That i conclude means engine speed sensor is good. Now check engine compression.
  17. That concludes there is enough fuel pressure to start engine. We do not know if injectors inject fuel. This engine does not have cam position sensor but works that out by measuring changes in angular acceleration of engine as it rotates around powered by starter. Therefore good working engine speed sensor is essential to synchronise engine. Faulty engine speed sensor does normally not trigger any engine fault code. Find a way to check engine speed sensor and you may be nearer to fixing your no start problem.
  18. I suspect your Smart is 450 not 451 since you state it is 700cc. I also suspect you have a faulty shift drum angle rotation sensor. This sensor sits on left side of transmission. They fail due to corrosion on seal area between sensor and transmission allow water ingress into sensor. Cure: Remove sensor, clean seal area and fit new sensor applying liberal amount of grease on seal area to prevent further corrosion and water ingress.
  19. You can also vacuum bleed but much easier to lift coolant temperature sensor. Then no need to buy vacuum bleed kit.
  20. Should start and run with a single bad injector. Won’t if you have three bad ones. How did you get on reading rail pressure sensor voltage signal?
  21. Your thermostat sits at top left corner of cylinder head hidden under the two fuel pipes and single vacuum pipe.
  22. You have to bleed at the engine whilst expansion bottle cap is off. If yours has same or similar thermostat as the 450, you bleed by lifting temperature sensor at top of thermostat housing. Tie something to the metal clip so it does not get lost. My clip has a nylon tie wrap permanently attached to clip for that reason. Do this when engine has cooled down sufficiently so you do not get scolded.
  23. I also regularly carry an 9 m ladder in my Smart car. Only local moves around the village. No problem when you own a Cabrio.
  24. I transported a large fridge with rear hatch open and fridge sticking out. This fridge would not fit other cars but no problem for the Smart.
  25. I fitted grease nipples on my rear wheel bearings 8 years ago. Did the fronts as well but not sufficient space for grease nipple so those have a wee removable screw. Have not replaced a wheel bearing since.