tolsen

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Everything posted by tolsen

  1. The first thing I would do is pull each connector to glow plugs and glow plug controller. Check for overheating damage, clean connectors and refit.
  2. Clunk and bang is worrying. Perhaps remove rocker cover to confirm all is well there. Check cylinder compression too.
  3. Wheels must be on the ground or on ramps with 2nd gear engauged so you can undo pulley nut. You can then raise rear end as required for access. Pulley is keyed and slides off easily. May be helped with a crow bar. Seal comes off the standard way.
  4. A good hour provided alternator fixing bolts and nuts are not too much seized.
  5. It is just a matter of time before one of the unsecured ends will poke out.
  6. Seal only costs £5 from Smart and easy to replace. I’ve never seen one leak so perhaps oil comes from elsewhere.
  7. The original elastics in my Smart turned into a sticky goo about ten years ago. When replacing rubber elastic rope on the wee pocket in the boot I attempted to pull the rope off but ended up with most of the goo sticking to my hands. Here are the promised photos. Colours are far out on first photo. Don’t know why. Military spec elastics are far superior to anything used by Smart. Obviously you don’t want your army to loose their pants whilst in battle. I pulled the elastics trough sleeves in net with a copper wire. The 3 pin plug powers my oil pan heater. 150 watt PTC towel radiator heater screwed into inboard side of pan. These heaters are self regulating and won’t burn out if sump is dry. Contains no resistor wire that may rattle and destruct.
  8. They came off a pair of white military underpants where the elastic band sits in a sleeve and is replaceable. Modern underpants are no good since elastics are stitched on and far too wide.
  9. My underpants elastics have lasted ten years. I’ll post a photo tomorrow.
  10. I wonder how you fixed the ends. I simply pulled through an elastic band acquired from a pair of holed underpants.
  11. I thought you asked what was the cause for the 3 bars of death.
  12. noun historical a linen cap, especially one worn by older women or children.
  13. A restrictor or constrictor will worsen lack of heat if you have a leaking thermostat. The higher differential pressure will increase leakage rate and heat loss. That is why I have always advised to check thermostat and renew if it fails to seal.
  14. Have just read rail pressure on my 15 year old 450. 215 bar at idle. Tried reading when cranking but engine fired up too quickly. Note that rail pressure sensor is not sufficiently sensitive to read feed pump pressure which is around 2.5 bar. Current draw by feed pump is 3 to 4 amps. Many years ago when mine had a non start issue I foolishly connected a pressure gauge to the rail. Not very smart. I nearly blew the gauge apart. Cause for my non start issue was seized alternator.
  15. Have you access to diagnostics machine to get live data from engine control unit? Check common rail pressure whilst cranking. Should be at least 260 bar. If low could be an issue with electric feed pump or its wiring. Also check engine speed sensor. A pig to get to although on mine I can get it out in about a minute working from top of engine. They often seize in the bore. Build up of iron filings at tip of sensor will weaken signal requiring higher cranking speed. Whether belt is too tight should not matter much except reduced bearing life.
  16. I bet you still won’t get mutch showing in instrumentation display since you have N1100 fault.
  17. Bleeding air out of cooling system is easy and not the problem provided you got your head correctly screwed on. Optimum restrictor size is 8.5 to 9 mm diameter hole. This corresponds to about 1.4 mm gap in the constricted hose. Somebody ought to remove hose, fit clamp, measure gap and work out required clamp spacer thickness.
  18. Could be your alternator rusting up slowing down cranking speed. Perhaps remove belt to confirm.
  19. Flow area in this constricted hose is far too large and will not work at all. I estimate above flow area no less than 300 mm2. No way that will have any effect at all.
  20. Flow area of restrictor is 60 mm2. Gap inside the flattened hose must therefore be rather small about 1.4 mm. You will need to make sure you have a minimum gap or engine may suffer damage due to hot spots caused by inadequate coolant circulation.
  21. You disconnect short bypass hose from V piece and push restrictor into that barb, then reconnect hose.