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Everything posted by tolsen

  1. What happened to this Smart? Still not cranking?
  2. Ebay.
  3. My new oil pan: Was very cheap about £18 including courier all the way from Germany. Thread boss is castellated allowing oil to drain because there is no Hoover dam.
  4. Just drain condensed oil in intercooler at each oil change.
  5. Spare wheel, jack and wheel brace was available as optional equipment until start of 2003. Also described in handbook for early Smart cars such as mine. Spare wheel stores behind driver’s seat. A wheel sack was supplied to house the flat wheel with jack and brace in Centre of wheel. I’ve been a smart driver for more than 18 years and have never suffered a puncture requiring use of spare wheel. On longer trips I now carry a tyre repair kit (turd type), jack and telescopic wheel brace.
  6. Evilution has a list of tools plus loads of other useful Smart information:
  7. The transverse bulkhead is bolted to steel floor and to door sills. It supports rear end of plastic floor pan. Bulkhead does not block access to engine or transmission.
  8. You cannot easily rotate the tyres on a Smart 450 because rim off set is different front and rear.
  9. Not rusty no more after its life extension. I welded up more than forty rust holes, coated all of the exposed underbody in two pack epoxy intended for ship ballast tanks. Also applied six or seven litres of bitumen based underbody Schutz. The bitumen self heals and is also very good sound proofing.
  10. I have only removed that Cabrio steel bulkhead to clean rust off it and to apply protective paint. Bulkhead is partly hollow just like door sills and I have therefore filled the cavity with used engine oil so my bulkhead won’t rust and disintegrate from the inside. Having struggled with its fixing bolts my bulkhead is now held in place with stainless steel bolts.
  11. Mine is a Cabrio and changing its alternator is no easier or worse than on a coupe.
  12. What you see is better than normal so no worries in my humble opinion. Mine has quite a bit more blow by so I have fitted a home made air oil separator. Oil on mine is separated out and ducted back to sump whilst air still containing some oil enters air inlet duct just before turbo. One solution is to duct breather gases down the side of the engine to the mother of all catch tanks just like in the olden days.
  13. Is yours a petrol 450? Reason I ask is the diesel 450 does not have any valve in crankcase breather pipes.
  14. You mean like Hindenburg! Huge fireball?
  15. Good to learn I am not the only one struggling with that inboard clip. To improve access to forward part of the power pack, I have removed rear sway bar. This sway bar is only 10 mm in diameter so does not contribute much. I have not noticed any change in how the car handles. End result is less weight, no wear on rear sway bar and its drop links and much better access for fitting and removing intercooler scoop.
  16. An expensive modification. Reason: You will need a custom engine control unit. Price typically above £1000.
  17. A few photos of the repaired intercooler scoop: Been looking for photo of the new improved lower stainless steel fixing but failed to find photo. Note condition of carbon steel top clips shown in bottom right corner. I sure, on average, I used to loose one scoop each winter before I did above mod.
  18. You will be ok without for pottering around town but will benefit greatly from scoop the harder you drive. Inboard top clip on scoop is hopeless to fit unless subframe is lowered for improoved access. Both top clips are carbon steel so will evenually disintegrate due to rust. On mine I have fitted stainless steel top clips and stainless steel set screw and washer in place of the original lower plastic fixing. Set screw fixes to a stainless steel rivnut which I fitted some time ago when transmission was out. Rubber lip on scoop has the habit of breaking off during winter taking parts of the scoop with it. I have therefore modified my scoop using tough plastic from a soap bottle. Have since not suffered any more loss or damage to my scoop.
  19. Tone ring is grooves machined into flywheel so no way that can get damaged. Yours have much more iron filings on crank sensor than mine but I doubt that is the cause.
  20. I think the way forward is to fit external relay to power electric fuel pump just like many Canadian forum members have done. To confirm if you indeed have burn out of terminal and poor power feed to your fuel pump, simply pull the relevant plug on SAM and inspect. Then perhaps fit test light, volt meter or fuel pressure gauge (on low pressure side) and run engine whilst observing.
  21. Lubing won’t last long. Oil or grease won’t make the rusty pins turn.
  22. A pretty good reasonable priced stainless steel exhaust is available in Europe. Only £183.21 including postage to Banchory.|parentrq%3Af37406521610abc0119f8ba6fffd9460|iid%3A1&_trksid=p2481888.c100678.m3607
  23. Lower universal joint (15x39) is prone to seizure as exposed to the elements where it sits behind radiator. Easy to replace if you have the necessary skill and wit. Also easy to screw up and ruin steering wheel clock spring. My lower universal joint startet getting stiff recently. I opened out and greased lower UJ a couple of years ago. The seals were worn so water must have gotten inside. Will now bite the bullet and renew lower UJ. Bought one on EBay for £7. Febest AST-1539. PS. Unwise to grease rubber boot where steering column penetrates. PS2: A15x39 UJ fits a 450. Not sure what UJ a 451 has.
  24. I think purpose of heat wrap is to hide chicken welds.