Freedom95

A new or rebuilt alternator is definitely in the short to mid-term plan. But I won't tackle that myself. My days of ear-tuning twin SU carbs with a bit of copper pipe are decades behind me. I've found a shop that is less expensive and more up-front than the dealer and I'll trust them to do it. They replaced a cracked EGR valve which solved years of problems, and found someone who would rebuild the high-pressure pump (is that what it's called?) which saved me hundreds of dollars. But yesterday's short-term fix I could handle, with a lot of help from you folks.

Followup on the good advice received here: My problem was indeed the alternator seizing. After this was pointed out, I did more research, and found more threads (don't know how I missed them) about this rather common problem here and elsewhere. A few thoughts: There was mention in one place of a 24 mm wrench for alternator, and another for 22 mm. On my car it is 22 mm. I also discovered the need to jack the car and remove right rear wheel ( i needed to upgrade my tools to remove the torqued lug nuts from allow wheels). Then remove the splash panel, which was less of a problem using an assortment of pry bars etc. Access to the 22 mm alternator nut was very tight. I had a 22mm 1/2 inch drive standard socket, but it was too deep to use with a 1/2 inch bar or ratchet, or universal joint etc. I looked for a 22mm offset wrench to purchase to no avail (on short notice). But at a second hand shop I found a 22mm 3/8 drive socket which was short enough that I could use it with a 3/8 inch ratchet to rotate the alternator armature, after which the car started fine. Put it all back together and I will make sure the car is run regularly, and watch the charging light. Thanks to all for the willing assistance. I wish I could offer more in return on this forum, but I do my bit on other forums, so I hope what goes around comes around somehow. It's a good day when you learn something new - Bruce.

Thanks for these good suggestions - I am hoping it is something simple like this. Might have to wait 'til the weekend but I will let you know if anything works. Bruce

I returned from ten days away and tried to start my 2006 Passion, 100k, and it barely turned over, wouldn't start. Battery is rated four years and is six years old, has seemed weak in the past, so with winter coming I decided time to put a new battery in. Did so, battery full charge, same result, turns over very slowly, sounds like battery is dying. Battery terminals clean and bright. I had my regular shop check battery and charging last visit (because I suspected battery was near the end of its life) and they found no issues. Any suggestions as to what to look for before resorting to expensive dealer? Bruce W. Ladysmith.

Well, it may have been gummed up, but how do you know until you get in there? And once you have it apart (expensively), is it worth putting the old stuff back in and crossing your fingers? Cost about $700 but they changed oil and did a few other routine things as well. Mostly I posted this to say that sometimes it's possible that stuff just breaks. I was sure hoping the additives would kick in as they have for others here but it was not to be. The mechanic has been good. MB told me I needed new front brakes and I took it to him for a second opinion, and without even taking the wheels off he said I didn't need brakes. 10,000 km later, he still hasn't told me the brakes need doing. So I was comfortable with his diagnosis about the fuel pump. There were days when I tuned my SU carbs, and changed the clutch on an old Fiat in the rain on a gravel driveway by myself, but I'm getting past that now!

I had this problem for a long time with my 2006 Passion. I tried - really tried - additives but things just kept getting worse. I started going to a new independent Mercedes-trained mechanic and he insisted that I should only use Shell, Petro-Can or Esso diesel. Tried that, plus additives (including Petrolabs). No luck. Finally I took it in and he said I needed a new sensor, which is all part of the fuel pump. So I had him replace the whole shebang and I have had no problems since. (Still using "good" diesel and additives.) The only good news was that he sourced the pump directly from the manufacturer which was $150 less than getting the same thing from MB.

I am a casual visitor here, checked in to see if my sticky fuel gauge (2006 car) was a common thing. I have been using Diesel Kleen I think (grey bottle) but will try some of the recommended ones, unless someone says DK would have fixed it (and it has not) i.e. I need to try something else.Bruce W.

Thanks for your reply, which helps a lot. I'm from Ladysmith - I see there is a longstanding member from here. Supposed to be sunnier tomorrow so I will have another go at the lights.

Hi out there - I'm a recent smart owner (used 2006 Pulse) facing my first headlight replacement. I'm getting mixed information from the nearest dealer and web sites - is it left or right side, viewed from front or back, and is it the Canadian version etc. Would someone please explain which lamps are which in the headlight units? Both my low beams have gone so I can't check one side against the other. High beams work. Some sources say high and low are the same lamp, others say two separate lamps. And which is the running light? Should it be on when the ignition is on, when the brake is off, when the car is in gear, what? I have bought H7 lamps and it looks like they are the outermost lamps (and they seem to be dead). Are the plastic covers similar to the ones closer to the centre of the car(seem to be high beams)? The outer lamps are a real stretch even for my small hands and arms.Thanks for your help.