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About Freedom95

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    Ladysmith, BC
  1. Followup on the fob saga: I received the two fobs I ordered about Feb. 1, so slow, but within the shipping window they stated (albeit a BIG window . . . ) Two fobs with blades for $60 CAD, took the car to Price's in Victoria, and yes, he programmed the two new ones, plus the one old one that was still working, for about another $60 CAD. That's a lot less than $300 for one fob from the dealer, PLUS programming cost. One minor wrinkle was that I used one of the new key blades to open the non-functioning fob to take the battery out, and put a kink in it. Yes, it was a dumb thing to do, but maybe be careful with these things - the metal may be poor. It was easy to put the circuit board from the damaged new fob into the non-functioning old fob so we still have three usable fobs now. So thanks to the forum for sharing information!
  2. Thanks very much for input on this. I don't have the experience to know if these keys will work on my car, but based on your recommendation I ordered two (from the same outfit on eBay in Canada - it just seemed a little weird ordering parts from Hong Kong from a British site, even if it is a few dollars more) It says I may not get them until February but I will let the forum know how it goes. And watch my one functioning fob like a hawk . . .
  3. I'm reopening this thread to ask a related question. I need to replace a key fob. Dealer wants $300 plus programming. Many Chinese versions on the internet. Most say "2008 and later"; mine is a 2006. Some say nothing, which leads me to think they are like the others, i.e. for 451 or later. Does that make sense? I found one in the UK for £36 that says it is for a 450, 2006 included, covers US models as well, but Canada not specified. I have found a locksmith in Victoria who says he can program it, has done one recently - need to confirm his equipment can do a 450. Does anyone know of a better source for 450 key fobs with electronics that are compatible and programmable and reliable? I have heard if you program a new key the old one(s) won't work, need reprogramming too. Would I be wise to buy two from the UK? And I am not about to start doing my own programming . . .
  4. Well, it may have been gummed up, but how do you know until you get in there? And once you have it apart (expensively), is it worth putting the old stuff back in and crossing your fingers? Cost about $700 but they changed oil and did a few other routine things as well. Mostly I posted this to say that sometimes it's possible that stuff just breaks. I was sure hoping the additives would kick in as they have for others here but it was not to be. The mechanic has been good. MB told me I needed new front brakes and I took it to him for a second opinion, and without even taking the wheels off he said I didn't need brakes. 10,000 km later, he still hasn't told me the brakes need doing. So I was comfortable with his diagnosis about the fuel pump. There were days when I tuned my SU carbs, and changed the clutch on an old Fiat in the rain on a gravel driveway by myself, but I'm getting past that now!
  5. I had this problem for a long time with my 2006 Passion. I tried - really tried - additives but things just kept getting worse. I started going to a new independent Mercedes-trained mechanic and he insisted that I should only use Shell, Petro-Can or Esso diesel. Tried that, plus additives (including Petrolabs). No luck. Finally I took it in and he said I needed a new sensor, which is all part of the fuel pump. So I had him replace the whole shebang and I have had no problems since. (Still using "good" diesel and additives.) The only good news was that he sourced the pump directly from the manufacturer which was $150 less than getting the same thing from MB.
  6. I am a casual visitor here, checked in to see if my sticky fuel gauge (2006 car) was a common thing. I have been using Diesel Kleen I think (grey bottle) but will try some of the recommended ones, unless someone says DK would have fixed it (and it has not) i.e. I need to try something else.Bruce W.
  7. Thanks for your reply, which helps a lot. I'm from Ladysmith - I see there is a longstanding member from here. Supposed to be sunnier tomorrow so I will have another go at the lights.
  8. Hi out there - I'm a recent smart owner (used 2006 Pulse) facing my first headlight replacement. I'm getting mixed information from the nearest dealer and web sites - is it left or right side, viewed from front or back, and is it the Canadian version etc. Would someone please explain which lamps are which in the headlight units? Both my low beams have gone so I can't check one side against the other. High beams work. Some sources say high and low are the same lamp, others say two separate lamps. And which is the running light? Should it be on when the ignition is on, when the brake is off, when the car is in gear, what? I have bought H7 lamps and it looks like they are the outermost lamps (and they seem to be dead). Are the plastic covers similar to the ones closer to the centre of the car(seem to be high beams)? The outer lamps are a real stretch even for my small hands and arms.Thanks for your help.