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About cheapohubby

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  1. Yeah; some times they can be a pain.... other time they pop off/on easy.... it's mostly a luck of the draw for me.
  2. I seem to recall that was the case; there just being a couple of colors that were through colored rather than painted. I'm guessing it has to do with what colors are UV resistant, and obviously any metalic colors only work as paint. I'd be a bit worried about swapping the doors rather than just the panels; it'll require adjusting them to get the latches working right. I've pulled the door panels off a few times; the most difficulty was getting them back on. It's just a matter of ensuring they're properly seated in the edges before popping the top clips into place. Granted, it is a bit scary, the amount of hip action required to squash the center of the panel inward to get those clips to pop.
  3. None of them seem to be showing much rust; or is it just the pictures aren't close enough? Guess you'll have lots of opportunities to get creative... maybe a smartie dune buggy? I've always wondered how well a smartie would work as a trike (instead of the traditional vw bug as a base).
  4. Would it be possible to fabricate a sheet metal clip with a large glue surface? That said, I wouldn't think it'd be that hard to find a used door panel (although, shipping to the states might get a bit expensive).
  5. It looks a lot like the same damage I had on our blue smartie. Not that hard to fix; especially if you're willing to pull the parts off your other smartie that's refusing to start. Unfortunately, most of the parts in question are plastic, so they're not easily fixable other than by completely replacing them.
  6. I started to wonder if it might be the actuator. Maybe the feedback resistor as you mention; or maybe the connector. So the next thing to try was swapping the actuator from Squish (Squish is currently parked for the summer until I get around to working on the steering column). Well; it looks like that's resolved things. No sign of limp mode since the swap, and it's been out for a test drive. The only code left to deal with is the P0380 (glow plug). I guess I need to add a replacement EGR valve actuator to my list of parts to pick up next time I'm in Halifax.
  7. Pulled the valve again, and found some more chunks of crud (obviously didn't do the best job of cleaning it out in the first place). Inserted the valve and confirmed that the valve moved freely and that it was having an effect on the engine when running (engine got spluttery when I pushed in the valve). Solenoid moves freely too. Re-attached the actuator and had a short interval without limp mode, then it returned. Pulled it apart again, but couldn't see anything to cause a problem. I've pulled the actuator off a few times since then (getting pretty good at blindly undoing those allen screws!), and now it seems to be getting to the point where it sometimes pops out of limp mode. Not sure if it's something glitching (actuator or connector), or if it's just the engine computer unsure about things. I'll give it a few days and see if things change one way or the other.
  8. I finally got around to pulling the EGR valve and cleaning it (been getting the code for over a year). It was definitely plugged up with gunk; but I think I got it cleaned out. But Darth is persisting to complain about the P0405 code, still suffers limp mode (refuses to go beyond 3300 RPM) and still sputters a lot on a cold start in the morning. So, basically he's behaving exactly the same as prior to the cleaning. I'm pretty sure I put the valve back in the correct orientation. It was and the actuator were moving freely. Any thoughts on what to check?
  9. It can take a while for the lube to work itself into the joints. If you do go the new joint route, let me know how much they are. Squish's steering has gone past being stiff, to now rattling.
  10. Is it possible that the car was simply warmer on the later starting, so the glow plugs weren't used and didn't prompt a code? I've got the P0380 code happening as well, and the car starts fine. Maybe a bit rough initially, but it smooths out pretty quick. But in my case, the code seems to be permanent. Might just be the fact that it's not very warm here; or maybe the glow plugs are in worse condition than yours.
  11. The abnormal tire wear? Or the brakes locking up? Because the springs (and struts) are both brand new.
  12. Has anybody had the traction control/ESP trigger out of the blue, and lock the brakes? I think it typically happens when taking a curve. Even on dry pavement. The brakes will come on by themselves, completely locking the wheels for a second or two. After that couple of seconds of screeching tires, the brakes will release and the car will continue on it's merry way. It happens occasionally on our blue smartie. I don't recall it ever happening on the black one, so it might be a persistent issue with the blue one. The traction control indicator seems to be stable and off; so I think the rings are okay. I've tried swapping the back wheels, and it still seems to do it. Haven't tried swapping fronts yet. One potential clue; I think the front wheels are substantially out of alignment with a significant toe-out. The tires that are on there now have prematurely worn out on the inside. Do you think that could be connected?
  13. Hi folks; Just wondering if anybody has a recommendation for where to buy front springs? I picked up a couple of strut/spring assemblies from smart-parts-direct, and put them on our blue smart. I think the old struts are still okay, so I think it would be a good idea (given the roads out here in Nova Scotia) to pick up a pair of springs and put them on the old struts to have around for when I need them.
  14. Is there any chance you're simply mistaken about the noise coming from the rear? On the drive out to the east coast, I started noticing a airplane roar, and was sure it was coming from the back. But it turned out to be a front wheel bearing.