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About Fedon

  • Birthday 03/15/1988

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  • Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
  1. Make sure the brakes are applied when shifting from neutral into a driving gear. I used to get that zero all the time but then I figured out the computer doesn't like the tranny going into gear if the brakes aren't applied. Hopefully that'll fix the problem.
  2. Thanks Flossy and Some Guy.I read the topic Some Guy suggested when I googled them before. Some say it's not worth it but that's assuming they are buying one brand new. Census says a remap is much better. I'm not expecting the Smart to be a rocket ship but if it's anything like my old civic, the higher fuel pressure will make accelerating at higher speeds (highway roll on) and hill climbing ability better.
  3. So a customer of my father sold his CDI Smart but he kept the tuning box he had in it. The brand name is "TuningBox" and the model is a "CDI-B-SM". I did the research and it is indeed the correct box for the car. I checked the specs at tuningbox.com and apparently it boosts power from 41HP to 57Hp and torque from 100NM to 130NM. He let me take it home and try it out so I took it for a boot and noticed a decent gain at high rpm as well as some gain in the midrange. He said I could have it for $100. The questions are: Would you buy a tuning box for $100? Any horror stories I should know about? I would love a remap but for $100 I don't think I could complain about the improvements the box makes. It's definitely not worth the $500 bucks he said he bought it for new.
  4. Welcome to the forum!Straight pipe on a turbocharged engine should be okay because of the back pressure a turbo creates. Without sufficient back pressure you run he risk of burning the exhaust valves. Just to be safe I would put a couple of bends in the pipe.I have never worked on a gasoline smart but if the turbo exhaust port points to the passenger side of the car, route the exhaust back to the driver's side thus forcing you to make a couple of bends and thus a little more restriction than straight out. This is a cool idea. I think I may do it on my Cdi. The turbo spooling will sound wicked.
  5. Awesome project! I can't wait to see the finished product. I thought about doing an electric conversion as well but got into making bio diesel so I'll wait till the Cdi dies to rip it out. It may be a while considering she's only got 19000km on it but hopefully the price of batteries will be a lot cheaper by then since it's the most expensive part of the conversion. Was the motor still functioning before the conversion?
  6. I'd be interested. Sounds cool. Is it open to anyone with a Smart or a private thing?
  7. Here's an idea: an electric vehicle with a biodesel or waste vegetable oil burning range extender. If everyone purchased biodeisel or made their own, this would virtually eliminate consumer dependence on foreign oil for transportation. This would also equate out to almost carbon neutral transportation if the electricity used to charge the vehicle was generated via renewable sources.
  8. Thanks for the info everyone. What sparked all of this in the first place was a scratch under my driver side door on the tridon. The plastic fenders can take a beating and at least you don't have to worry about stone chips too much because they wont rust. But mudflaps behind the front tires would be the best solution for preventing scratches on the tridon. I wish Toronto used sand instead of all this damn salt on the roads.
  9. Just out of curiosity, what aftermarket radio did you install? I was thinking about it but didn't know how it would look in the Smart. Any chance you could PM a pic or two of the install?
  10. I actually bought the Zerostart from CT but I returned it and bought an Espar Hydronic D5 diesel heater. Its worth every penny but pricey none the less. I located a German manual for an install on a smart car that indicated to tap into the coolant system between the motor and the heater core under the car so that's what I did. There is not much room where the oil cooler is located on the Smart to mount anything.I looked at the factory block heaters and didn't like the fact that they are merely contact style heaters. Another good thing about coolant heaters is that the Smarts use oil-coolant type oil cooler that functions as an oil-coolant type oil heater when you heat the coolant in the winter. Heating the coolant is far superior because it goes through all the parts of the engine that you want to heat anyway. Not to mention instant heat in the cabin.
  11. Hey guys. this is my first winter with my 450 and I hate the way the front tires spray brown road slush all over the sides of the car and the way the back of the car gets saltier than the Atlantic. I was thinking about getting some universal mud flaps from a company called Rally Armor but then I found these. http://www.carmats4u.com.au/smart-fortwo-m...ash-guards.html They should fit the Canadian Fortwo's. What do you guys think? Here is the link for the Rally Armor set. http://www.rallyarmor.com/store/rally-mud-...cf54e5478c579c6
  12. When I picked up my smart it only came witha single fob. I remember searching eBay and finding one or two ads for complete key fobs. I don't remember the prices but they were way cheaper than the dealer price and you wouldn't even have to program them if all you will be using is the front part. You may have to search eBay.com instead of the Aussy version though. You can also find them at smartpartsdirect.com and I think they had them listed for about 50 British Pounds. I have no affiliation with either of the previously mentioned sites just for the record.
  13. I ended up purchasing and installing an Espar Hydronic D5. I purchased the kit for $1100 taxes in from a place called Artcitc Traveler in Mississauga. I convinced myself to caugh up the money and get the best solution. The install was a pain in the ass but knowing what I know now the job would take half the time. To me, this type of heater should be a factory option on all diesels. It hasn't been really cold out so I haven't had the chance to really put it through the paces but at around 0 degrees celcius it brought the coolant up to operating temp in 5mins. Another benefit is the instant heat in the cabin. It is possible to wire the blower motor to the unit to defrost/ heat the cabin up but I don't have the time right now. Does anyone know where I can find a wiring schematic or tutorial so I don't have to search around for the wires?Ps. We really need service manuals for these cars.
  14. There are a couple of solutions out there for those trips to your grandma Derekbrochu. They call them range extenders. Some of which operate via a generator on board or as a trailer giving the batteries juice so you can maintain a certain speed as long as you have fuel. The other is a pusher style that actually pushes the electric vehicle along via engine and transmission. Given that the average vehicle needs only a small amount of horsepower to maintain highway speed, I don't think a very large internal combustion engine is required to supply the power needed in either case. Here is a real life example: http://www.jstraubel.com/EVpusher/EVpusher2.htm Awesome job on the bike Ravk. I don't have the funds to do a project like that now but I would love to once I'm done school.