Regular Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral


  • Birthday 01/15/1981

Contact Methods

  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. this may help.. I would lean more towards this being the issue.. Much easier to wiggle the plug at the SAM than search for a burnt wire. IMO
  2. This little car will take some effort.. but you can keep it alive.
  3. You still running the cheap'o' alternator? Thats my guess.
  4. There are issues at the SAM that will cause the fuel pump to short. Usually the connection just becomes unstable and will show itself as a dead fuel pump, but not blow the fuse. I will look at changing the N11 plug I think it is if I remember correctly. There is also a fix that involves opening the sam to sort out some solder joints. I added some wires that bypass the factory connection. there are a few threads on this in here.. closing in on 300000km and I have never had an issue with the pump itself.
  5. Actual failure is not that common, miss diagnosed however, sure does. I have experienced turbo failure. A broken shaft I think.. but I actually have not taken the unit apart yet to check. All I can contribute is that I had zero smoke or anything like that. So I suppose you could have smoke, and possible limp mode without actually having a failed turbo.
  6. I likely still have the original unit I switched out on my own, I keep pretty much every part I have taken off and replaced.. I will get a look the next time I pop the panels off for a clean and grease.. which will be soon. That thing sitting on jack stands for a month has all kinds of squeaks and sticks.
  7. You cant get the inner panel without being able to open the door. Sounds like a pain in the ass... I have also replaced both door latches.. 1 on the recall.. one i paid for out of pocket. The drivers door is already giving me an issue after about 2 years since replaced by MB. Id likely try and give it a good kick from inside.. but im nkt recomending this.
  8. Sry.... my post was.. we dont have those cheap options here cause no ne ships to Canada from over there
  9. Tolsen; any chance that they ship to North America? If so, can you provide the website address? I think I'll be needing to replace the upper ball joints soon (hearing a bit of clunking in the front end on bumps). Price is now £18.25 each and they do not ship to Canada.
  10. I have had success in cutting the heads off the actuator bolts when they round. Have done this on 2 smarts so far and each time once the tension has left the bolt,whats remaining has turned out by hand. Maybe just lucky i guess. My crash bar in the back hasnt been off in a while with its rusted bolts... even while removing the engine which is a real pain.
  11. Success! Sry i dont have pics to post. But the install went off quite well. T did take a bit longer than i had thought. But what doesnt? Issues: I left the parking brake on while it was on the stands for a month. So that took some smashing and some antirust oil to free them up. the alternator siezed up on my while it was sitting in the garage. Freed up ok as kts been rebuilt recently. I would recomend putting it in a climate controlled area if its going to sot a while. Juat 1 leak... at the oil dipstick where it goes into the timing cover. I had to find a used timing cover to replace mine. (Thanx GRP151).. so the seal was bad. I will put a new one in tomorrow when i pick it up. Chaing the lifters and front engine mount quieted the engine a bit i think... either way its nice to be driving it again! Thanx to all for the help and suggestions... couldnt have done it without ClubSmart...
  12. Haha... yes... yes you are.
  13. Yes the size was the same.. well.. same amount of links anyway. obviously it was a bit shorter.. due to the stretch in the original chain... just was a bit too short. Again, I paid $200 CAD including shipping etc.. for about $800 in parts. So I cant complain.
  14. Thanx! I was unable to fit the new chain.. It seems to be too short. Even with the cam off I was unable to get a fit. I thought maybe the chain needed to be stretched a little from factory.. but no matter how hard I tried I couldn't get it to move.
  15. Well it looks like I am OK for now with the timing chain. It looks similar to the pic you posted Tolsen. Thanks again... Timing seemed to go well.. I don't anticipate any issues. The "notch" on the drive pulley is hard to find on on older pulley. It looks like a small nick in the side... Just need to get the timing cover back from my friends shop and I should be good to start the install process. I had a question on the lifters that I couldn't find an answer too.. Does it matter how they are installed? Will the small hole be obstructed if not pointed towards the cavity in the head? I am assuming that oil pressure will sort them out no matter the placement. Also can someone (tolsen) point me towards torque specs for this tiny engine?