CANMAN

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About CANMAN

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    Madoc, Ontario

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  1. This article was in the news today. Transport Canada is issuing a recall for 2008-2009 smart fortwo’s due to a risk of fires in the engine compartment. canman http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/ottawa/smart-vehicles-recall-engine-fire-1.4657669
  2. The AC system on most diesel cdi's tend to lose the refrigerant after a couple of years, probably too much vibration. Some cars were fixed under warranty I think with parts from the 451 model. The best way to get AC is to get the components from a scrapyard or buy a smart with a blown engine and AC. You will need a licensed garage to purge/ leak test and fill the system when you are done. If you get another car for parts take it to a garage to remove the freon (assuming there is any left) before disconnecting any lines. canman
  3. The car could be remapped with a performance tune instead of stock. Thus the poorer fuel economy. canman
  4. What's wrong with your front struts, springs broken? You can buy springs and rebuild the struts if that's the case. canman
  5. There is nothing wrong with the SAM or your relay. What you did wrong is you put one of the little fuse holders in the wrong spot on the side of the SAM. Some of the slots have power all the time and some are controlled by the ignition key. See attached picture for where they go. Canman
  6. I think the warranty is only 1 year, but check with Mercedes, I may be wrong. Despite the removal and cleaning I did, my drivers door latch has been sticking again. Until it is warm enough to do the work of replacing it, I have been carrying an extension cord and heat gun in the back of the car. If you don't have a heat gun a good hairdryer will probably work, just take longer. You have to blow the warm air into the lock mechanism for a minute or more and work the latch back and forth with a screwdriver to free it. Obviously the problem is moisture freezing in the latch, it doesn't hurt to spray some moisture dispersing penetrating oil like WD40 into the latch after it is warmed up. Damn thing failed 3 times the other day, had to use the heat gun each time until I got home and sprayed it again. canman
  7. You don't need a star machine to do a remap, just buy a KWP200 and use your laptop. canman
  8. Tolsen, I think you just got back from the pub when you wrote that. Changing the Crank Position sensor is the second hardest job on a smart, the only thing worse is changing the starter. canman
  9. Go out to the car and remove the battery hold down bracket right now! If it contacts the Positive Battery post it will short the battery to ground potentially causing a fire. As to your charging problem: On the back of the alternator the electrical connector with the green and white wires. One of them is connected to the ECU and can override the internal voltage regulator inside the alternator. I agree with wild, replace the engine ground cable at the rear of the engine, connecting the engine to the frame behind the rear crash bar. Check every ground wire in the engine bay for corrosion, main engine ground, grounds above the intercooler, small ground wire above and forward of the oil filler cap, below fuel rail. canman
  10. Dave, I would like to order 2 of your new actuator tips. Please P.M. me with the details so I can E.F.T. Payment. canman
  11. Will your new tip work if there is a hole already worn thru the clutch fork? canman
  12. Dave, My vote is for the higher cost bolt on solution. As you said it's not too hard to drop the subframe, getting the transmission out of the subframe is a pain in the ass. It takes about 10 hours to get it out, you have to pull both driveshafts, I prefer to leave the engine partially still attached to the subframe so you don't have to disconnect coolant hoses. I disconnect the 2 outside mounts and pivot the engine and transmission down useing the forward mount as the pivot point. Now you can split the engine and tranny. canman
  13. Yes Dave, Over time the actuator needs to be adjusted closer to the bellhousing, adding the acorn nut to the end of the actuator shaft moves the actuator outwards away from the engine but there is still room in the slots to accomidate the space required by the nut. canman
  14. I don't think you could find a standard manual transmission small enough to fit in the space available. Thanks Dave for an interesting thread, I hope you succeed. Canman
  15. Take it back to the garage that "fixed" the turbo. Obviously that wasn't the problem and they changed a perfectly good turbo. As Tolsen said, the problem is the EGR valve. If they don't know what or where it is, time to find a new mechanic. canman