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    Madoc, Ontario

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  1. What's wrong with your front struts, springs broken? You can buy springs and rebuild the struts if that's the case. canman
  2. There is nothing wrong with the SAM or your relay. What you did wrong is you put one of the little fuse holders in the wrong spot on the side of the SAM. Some of the slots have power all the time and some are controlled by the ignition key. See attached picture for where they go. Canman
  3. I think the warranty is only 1 year, but check with Mercedes, I may be wrong. Despite the removal and cleaning I did, my drivers door latch has been sticking again. Until it is warm enough to do the work of replacing it, I have been carrying an extension cord and heat gun in the back of the car. If you don't have a heat gun a good hairdryer will probably work, just take longer. You have to blow the warm air into the lock mechanism for a minute or more and work the latch back and forth with a screwdriver to free it. Obviously the problem is moisture freezing in the latch, it doesn't hurt to spray some moisture dispersing penetrating oil like WD40 into the latch after it is warmed up. Damn thing failed 3 times the other day, had to use the heat gun each time until I got home and sprayed it again. canman
  4. You don't need a star machine to do a remap, just buy a KWP200 and use your laptop. canman
  5. Tolsen, I think you just got back from the pub when you wrote that. Changing the Crank Position sensor is the second hardest job on a smart, the only thing worse is changing the starter. canman
  6. Go out to the car and remove the battery hold down bracket right now! If it contacts the Positive Battery post it will short the battery to ground potentially causing a fire. As to your charging problem: On the back of the alternator the electrical connector with the green and white wires. One of them is connected to the ECU and can override the internal voltage regulator inside the alternator. I agree with wild, replace the engine ground cable at the rear of the engine, connecting the engine to the frame behind the rear crash bar. Check every ground wire in the engine bay for corrosion, main engine ground, grounds above the intercooler, small ground wire above and forward of the oil filler cap, below fuel rail. canman
  7. Dave, I would like to order 2 of your new actuator tips. Please P.M. me with the details so I can E.F.T. Payment. canman
  8. Will your new tip work if there is a hole already worn thru the clutch fork? canman
  9. Dave, My vote is for the higher cost bolt on solution. As you said it's not too hard to drop the subframe, getting the transmission out of the subframe is a pain in the ass. It takes about 10 hours to get it out, you have to pull both driveshafts, I prefer to leave the engine partially still attached to the subframe so you don't have to disconnect coolant hoses. I disconnect the 2 outside mounts and pivot the engine and transmission down useing the forward mount as the pivot point. Now you can split the engine and tranny. canman
  10. Yes Dave, Over time the actuator needs to be adjusted closer to the bellhousing, adding the acorn nut to the end of the actuator shaft moves the actuator outwards away from the engine but there is still room in the slots to accomidate the space required by the nut. canman
  11. I don't think you could find a standard manual transmission small enough to fit in the space available. Thanks Dave for an interesting thread, I hope you succeed. Canman
  12. Take it back to the garage that "fixed" the turbo. Obviously that wasn't the problem and they changed a perfectly good turbo. As Tolsen said, the problem is the EGR valve. If they don't know what or where it is, time to find a new mechanic. canman
  13. What do you plan on useing the engine for? You will need the Engine E.C.U, probably the Sam and the 2 main wiring harnesses that attach to the E.C.U, the key fob receiver under the shifter housing and probably more stuff. Dont scrap the car until you get your project running. Canman
  14. Unless you are very computer literate or know someone who is, don't buy a star machine. The clones are made in China and have absolutely no technical support. The 2 main issues are the operating system for the clone is windows XP running in an emulator and the original system requiring a serial port which laptops nowadays do not have. So you need a USB to serial converter which causes its own set of headaches. Canman
  15. The drivers door on my wife's smart with the new style door latches were acting up, the inner handle wouldn't stay flush with the trim protruding about 1/2 inch and the door not latching sometimes. So I took it apart today. The mechanism is different from the previous version but still has the same problems as the old one. It can't tolerate any grit inside. I bathed it in varsol and operated the mechanism while submerged ( microswitch and wires not in varsol ). Photo 1 show how much grit was left after pouring the varsol back into a container. I blew it dry with compressed air and lubricated everything inside and out. Photo 2 shows where the latch is that holds the mechanism shut, the tip of the screwdriver is pointing to it. The preview photo is with the mechanism on it's side, but when you open the photo the mechanism is upside down, the latch is at the top of the lock The door latches good as new, hope to get another 2 years before having to do it again. Now I have to do the passengers door and both doors on the other car as a preventative measure. Canman