CANMAN

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Everything posted by CANMAN

  1. Rather then continue the old thread about door latch failures, I started a new one because both my doors have had the Transport Canada Recall done and are the NEW latches. I don't think Mercedes changed the design, just made another batch of them. Last winter the passengers door didn't latch closed, fiddling with the mechanism useing the door key, I managed to free it and get the door closed. Didn't use the door all winter, now that's it's spring I tried to open the door to fix the latch. Can't get the door open! The outside handle moves freely with no resistance. The inside handle has resistance when pulled back but won't open the door. Tried having a helper pull the inside handle while I held the outside handle and banged on the door to try and get it unstuck, no luck. Can't remove the front clip to unbolt the door hinges to get it open because of the screws along the hinge line fastening the front clip. Tried spraying lots of penetrating lube into the outside handle and into the area where the latch is. The only thing I can think of is to go for a drive on a bumpy road with a passenger pulling on the door handle, hoping that vibrations from the bumps will jiggle something loose and open the door. Does anyone have any ideas on getting it open? Tomorrow I will phone Mercedes to see if they have any ideas on how to get it open. I will ask if they will replace it again under warranty, but I doubt it. Canman
  2. This thread is for comments on my Technical Wiki on How to Replace the Alternator. Located: Articles/Technical Wikis/How to Replace the Alternator http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?autocom=...ticle&id=31 My alternator belt was squeeling so I finally decided to fix it. After jacking the car removing the wheel, arch liner, and belt cover. I discovered the reason it was squeeling was that the upper alternator mounting bolt and nut were missing. After getting the new parts I decided to try Evilutions method of removing the alternator as smarts method involves removing the entire rear clip, both rear wheels, both wheel arches, disconnecting the air intake, lowering the rear underbelly panel, disconnecting a brake line clamp, disconnecting the parking brake equalizer, disconnecting a wiring harness clip, installing lowering bolts and lowering the entire subframe. So back to Evilutions method, when I got to the part about disconnecting the X frame, as I loosened the first bolt I became more and more concerned about the amount of stress the bolt was under. The further out it came, the more it was bending downwards, I decided to stop because I was afraid of it springing and causing injury or damage, and it looked like it would be really hard to put back together. So I reassembled the X frame and thought about it. The purpose of removing the X frame was to get at the right engine mount to lower the side of the engine. The alternator is at the front of the engine, what about the front engine mount? I looked everywhere and could not find any areas where it would bind or cause damage. So I removed the forward engine mount bolt and lowered the engine. Lots of room for the alternator to be removed. The only area I was concerned about was the tailpipe, there are lots of different tailpipe configurations and mine pressed up against the rear clip when the engine was lowered fully. Other then that it was quick and easy. Canman
  3. This article was in the news today. Transport Canada is issuing a recall for 2008-2009 smart fortwo’s due to a risk of fires in the engine compartment. canman http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/ottawa/smart-vehicles-recall-engine-fire-1.4657669
  4. The AC system on most diesel cdi's tend to lose the refrigerant after a couple of years, probably too much vibration. Some cars were fixed under warranty I think with parts from the 451 model. The best way to get AC is to get the components from a scrapyard or buy a smart with a blown engine and AC. You will need a licensed garage to purge/ leak test and fill the system when you are done. If you get another car for parts take it to a garage to remove the freon (assuming there is any left) before disconnecting any lines. canman
  5. The car could be remapped with a performance tune instead of stock. Thus the poorer fuel economy. canman
  6. What's wrong with your front struts, springs broken? You can buy springs and rebuild the struts if that's the case. canman
  7. There is nothing wrong with the SAM or your relay. What you did wrong is you put one of the little fuse holders in the wrong spot on the side of the SAM. Some of the slots have power all the time and some are controlled by the ignition key. See attached picture for where they go. Canman
  8. I think the warranty is only 1 year, but check with Mercedes, I may be wrong. Despite the removal and cleaning I did, my drivers door latch has been sticking again. Until it is warm enough to do the work of replacing it, I have been carrying an extension cord and heat gun in the back of the car. If you don't have a heat gun a good hairdryer will probably work, just take longer. You have to blow the warm air into the lock mechanism for a minute or more and work the latch back and forth with a screwdriver to free it. Obviously the problem is moisture freezing in the latch, it doesn't hurt to spray some moisture dispersing penetrating oil like WD40 into the latch after it is warmed up. Damn thing failed 3 times the other day, had to use the heat gun each time until I got home and sprayed it again. canman
  9. You don't need a star machine to do a remap, just buy a KWP200 and use your laptop. canman
  10. Tolsen, I think you just got back from the pub when you wrote that. Changing the Crank Position sensor is the second hardest job on a smart, the only thing worse is changing the starter. canman
  11. Go out to the car and remove the battery hold down bracket right now! If it contacts the Positive Battery post it will short the battery to ground potentially causing a fire. As to your charging problem: On the back of the alternator the electrical connector with the green and white wires. One of them is connected to the ECU and can override the internal voltage regulator inside the alternator. I agree with wild, replace the engine ground cable at the rear of the engine, connecting the engine to the frame behind the rear crash bar. Check every ground wire in the engine bay for corrosion, main engine ground, grounds above the intercooler, small ground wire above and forward of the oil filler cap, below fuel rail. canman
  12. Dave, I would like to order 2 of your new actuator tips. Please P.M. me with the details so I can E.F.T. Payment. canman
  13. Will your new tip work if there is a hole already worn thru the clutch fork? canman
  14. Dave, My vote is for the higher cost bolt on solution. As you said it's not too hard to drop the subframe, getting the transmission out of the subframe is a pain in the ass. It takes about 10 hours to get it out, you have to pull both driveshafts, I prefer to leave the engine partially still attached to the subframe so you don't have to disconnect coolant hoses. I disconnect the 2 outside mounts and pivot the engine and transmission down useing the forward mount as the pivot point. Now you can split the engine and tranny. canman
  15. Yes Dave, Over time the actuator needs to be adjusted closer to the bellhousing, adding the acorn nut to the end of the actuator shaft moves the actuator outwards away from the engine but there is still room in the slots to accomidate the space required by the nut. canman
  16. I don't think you could find a standard manual transmission small enough to fit in the space available. Thanks Dave for an interesting thread, I hope you succeed. Canman
  17. Take it back to the garage that "fixed" the turbo. Obviously that wasn't the problem and they changed a perfectly good turbo. As Tolsen said, the problem is the EGR valve. If they don't know what or where it is, time to find a new mechanic. canman
  18. What do you plan on useing the engine for? You will need the Engine E.C.U, probably the Sam and the 2 main wiring harnesses that attach to the E.C.U, the key fob receiver under the shifter housing and probably more stuff. Dont scrap the car until you get your project running. Canman
  19. The drivers door on my wife's smart with the new style door latches were acting up, the inner handle wouldn't stay flush with the trim protruding about 1/2 inch and the door not latching sometimes. So I took it apart today. The mechanism is different from the previous version but still has the same problems as the old one. It can't tolerate any grit inside. I bathed it in varsol and operated the mechanism while submerged ( microswitch and wires not in varsol ). Photo 1 show how much grit was left after pouring the varsol back into a container. I blew it dry with compressed air and lubricated everything inside and out. Photo 2 shows where the latch is that holds the mechanism shut, the tip of the screwdriver is pointing to it. The preview photo is with the mechanism on it's side, but when you open the photo the mechanism is upside down, the latch is at the top of the lock The door latches good as new, hope to get another 2 years before having to do it again. Now I have to do the passengers door and both doors on the other car as a preventative measure. Canman
  20. Love it. If Transport Canada would let me do it, I would make one. Canman
  21. It sold for $26,500 US dollars
  22. Sounds like the alternator is seizing due to stator rust, regardless of the fact that it's less then a year old. You live in Quebec lots of salt on the roads in the winter. You are probably missing the plastic splash shield that clips under the alternator. Canman
  23. If you are going to lower the subframe I posted a list of steps, no pictures. See my post no.15. http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=30164 Canman
  24. You have to lower the rear belly panel and unbolt the plastic nut securing the brake lines and abs wiring. It is located in the rear left corner. That is if you are lowering the subframe. Canman
  25. No need to lower the subframe to replace alternator, here is a how to wiki. http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?app=ccs&module=pages&section=pages&id=4&record=32 If you need to lower subframe for other reasons like fixing a leaking intercooler, release the handbrake ( lower the handle ), lock a pair of visegrips on the end of the shaft protruding from the cup and pull down. Use a long screwdriver to pop both the handbrake cables out of the cup then turn the cup 90 degrees left or right. Remove the visegrips. Canman