CANMAN

Regular Members
  • Content count

    909
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by CANMAN

  1. If I sell the car to someone could there be any issues or liabilities? I didn't install the panels, Glenn did. But knowing that they should have warts and not rectifying the problem? Canman
  2. Did you replace the main engine ground that I mentioned in your other post? It is very difficult to access the spade connector to the starter. First of all don't go poking in there with metal tools with the battery connected, there is a heavy duty 12 volt cable running directly from the battery right beside the spade lug. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! Lowering the engine won't help, the starter is on top of the engine but buried under the AC pump, and coolant hoses. There is a 1 inch gap between the fuel rail and brake booster vacuum line and the metal subframe that you have to work in. You will need a very bright light and a pair of 12 inch straight medical forceps available from princess auto and a long skinny common screwdriver. Not only is it a bitch to unplug the connector it's a bitch and a half to get the damn thing back on, so don't try unless you are sure of your abalities and you can afford to have the car disabled for quite a few hours. Canman
  3. It works great, the engine starts easier in the cold weather and you start getting heat out of the heater in about a kilometer instead of about 12 kilometres like an unmodified diesel. I use a timer to turn it on about 1 hour before leaving for work. I wired it into the 110 harness that goes to the battery box, useing the standard pigtail at the front of the car. P.M. me if you want more technical details but I didn't take any more pictures, smart_ guys post had enough pictures to figure it out. Useing the location I did you either have to remove the coolant hoses from the EGR (or delete the EGR) and reuse them to hook up the heater, or buy the hose with the 90 deg. bend in it. There isn't enough room to use 90 deg. fittings, the picture I posted shows the heater with the subframe lowered, once it's back in place, the heater is really close to subfloor. Canman
  4. Cancel the ebay transaction and get your money back, there is no manual for the smart, the seller is providing a ripped off copy of Mercedes WIS, which is a pain to install in your computer, doesn't run well and doesn't really provide any useful information. You will get better info by searching this forum or going to http://www.fq101.co.uk (free) or http://www.evilution.co.uk (subscription). The starter relay is inside the SAM (fuse box) it is not access able for maintenance, and probably isn't the cause of your starter issue. Check the main engine ground at rear of engine in front of rear bumper, guaranteed it badly corroded. Canman
  5. I removed the EGR valve and reused the coolant lines from it, you actually have to shorten the lines. However you need to lower the engine to be able to install the Y fitting. I agree webasto is the best solution, but the inline heater cost $100 instead of $2000. Canman
  6. Useing smart_guys post as a guide I installed the inline coolant heater in a different location! I didn't like the idea of it being beside the fuel tank and only held in with strap ties. Mine is held with the mounting bracket at the forward end of the subframe.
  7. Good job Mike. You didn't need to run a separate power wire from the battery, you could have gotten power from the extra fuse holders on the side of the SAM. What about the fuel pump, aren't you going to use a relay to prevent damage in the future? Canman
  8. Check the brown connector on the SAM, the pins are known to overheat and melt the connector. There are numerous posts in Club smart car, use the search. If your connector is not too badly melted, the fix is to install a relay to power the light circuit. Again search the forum, numerous posts. Canman
  9. Didn't you read the Evilution post? I know your cheap, but not willing to spend $15.00 ? Canman http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMART-CAR-FOR-TWO-COUPE-ROADSTER-WINDSCREEN-WIPER-MOTOR-LINKAGE-REPAIR-CLIP-KIT-/151671535281?hash=item235053f6b1&vxp=mtr
  10. If you manage to figure it out please post your schematic in this thread.
  11. You can buy it from Mercedes, don't remember how much it cost. Canman
  12. Just wait for the 453's to come, they have a tach/clock pod and if you get the dual clutch model it comes with paddle shifters. Canman
  13. For testing your theory that it may be the ECU, no need to spend money buying a new ECU. You can borrow a SAM and ECU from another smart and install them in yours. The SAM and ECU are paired, the instrument cluster won't like it and show --------- in the mileage display, but everything will work except for TAN coded stuff like cruise control. Make sure you use the key fob from the doner to unlock the immobilizer then start with your key in the ignition. Canman
  14. Still think it's a fuel supply problem. When was the fuel filter last replaced? Canman
  15. I agree with Tolsen and Francesco, Have a look at the SAM brown connector, to see if it's melted. Suspect the electric fuel pump in the fuel tank or wiring is faulty robbing the high pressure fuel pump of fuel. Canman
  16. I would be looking at the gear position sensor on the left side of the transmission as well, it's cylindrical, kind of looks like an electric motor. Canman
  17. The acorn nut is only a temporary fix, it will only last 3 or 4 monts before wearing a bigger hole in the clutch fork. Order a new clutch fork and plan on doing a big repair after your trip. I would recommend cleaning the EGR valve and replacing the transmission fluid since you will have everything apart anyway. Canman
  18. The alternator probably seized again. You can run the engine for a short time without the belt on the alternator/water pump, no more then 1 or 2 minutes for troubleshooting. Remove the belt, run engine to confirm the alternator is the problem again then go buy a new alternator. Canman
  19. Did the ball joints today as well as replacing a broken spring. Instructions on fq101 were good but missing some torque values. Yes you can loosen the 16 mm nuts and push the bolts back and cut them off with a zip cut. I used the Mercedes kit which includes new hub stretch bolts and new centre caps as well as the ball joints. Put the bolts in reversed as per the recommendations in this post. Even though it wasn't required in order to do the ball joints, I removed the calliper and cleaned and lubricated the brake pad sliding surfaces as well as the pins. Canman
  20. Not that I am defending Mercedes, the Kingston dealership is very helpful, the parts guy is awesome willing to look for weird parts for some of the mods I have done in the past. I don't normally use the service since I do all my own work but on the occasion that I have they were good getting the car done close to their estimated time and for the price they quoted beforehand. One of their mechanics is from England and knows everything about smart cars. I know this doesn't help the person who started this thread due to the distance involved, but not all Mercedes dealers are bad. Canman
  21. Did swapping the injectors make a difference with your starting problem? I forgot to mention you should use new fire seals, (the copper washers). A good way to check if the fire seals are leaking is to squirt soapy water around the seals while someone is cranking the engine and look for bubbles. Check all 3 cylinders for bubbles. Canman
  22. So swap injectors from 2&3 and retest. I'll give it a go. No, swap injectors 1&3, the timing is sensed on cylinder 1, which is your low reading cylinder. Canman
  23. Kdubya, Your screenshot shows the correction (compression) on cylinder 1 at 0.370 compared to over 1 on the other cylinders. Which explains your problem, low compression on cylinder 1 or a weak injector, thus no synchronization. I would swap the injectors between cylinders 1 and 3, clean everything extremely well with brake cleaner and compressed air before doing any work. Then repeat the star machine compression test to see if the readings change to see if it's an injector or mechanical issue. Canman
  24. I would replace the crank position sensor, it's a magnet and collects fuzz which confuses the ECU resulting in incorrect timing. It's a real bitch to get at, it's located on the rear side of the engine on the bell housing between the engine and transmission. You can't really get at it to meter it until you remove enough stuff that by this point you may as well replace it, same goes for cleaning it, I would hate to put everything back together and find out it's not working, thus confusing your fault finding even more. Canman