earnshae

New Members
  • Content count

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About earnshae

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0
  1. Hello, So I have a 2006 (.8L) Diesel Smart fortwo. It has been out of service since 2013, when I disassembled it to diagnose several mechanical issues that I was having. I recently got around to servicing it, replacing the turbo, EGR value, several hoses and rebuilding the starter and alternator. Unfortunately as I took it apart about 5 years ago I am a little a little hasy on a couple of details and I was hoping I could get some clarification from some one on a couple of things. #1. There is a metal pipe that runs between the turbo and the EGR valve. It has a place to attach 2 hoses. I have found one hose that connects this pipe to the front of the engine. This hose appears to fit to the take off on the turbo side, of the pipe. What connects to the take off on the EGR side of the pipe? I can not find any hoses that would connect to this pipe... #2. I have what appears to be a coolest line that runs to the front of the vehicle. This line is in addition to the two lines that connect to the water pump. Where would it connect to? This line would fit to the pipe from the previous question but it has coolant in it, and runs to the front of the vehicle which doesn't make much sense to me. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
  2. Unfortunately the board is too far gone for me.I found the controller thanks to a drawing from the dealer (attached) it is very accessible.Just follow the wiring channel from the glow plugs towards the passenger side. It is a small box held in place with 2 bolts (I think they were 10mm).Loosen them and remove the two cables.Upon inspection I found that the cable plug connected to the glow plugs and 12 volt supply had become very hot and melted inside the board had melted and damaged many components. I am just replacing the whole box and plug due to the damage.I think the root cause may have been frequently boosting the vehicle during the winter causing, over current conditions.Literally a 5min repair if you have the parts.Key symptoms smell of burning silicon, glow plug light stays on, glow plug codes on scan gauge, constant 10volts at glow plugs.If any one would like I can post pics of the inside of my nasty glow plug controller... it was so bad the screw melted out and were rattling around shorting things out in the box. k_gze.pdf
  3. When I came into the garage to find my battery drained I could smell burning silicone before I disconnected the battery.Given the smell and my above observations I would like to inspect the controller to see if any components have been damaged. I think at the very least there is damage to the control circuit which allows the glow plugs to remain on while the engine is running.
  4. Yes the glow plugs stay 100% of the time, including when the car is running and when the key is not in the ignition.Didn't realize that was the case until I parked it overnight and found that it drained the battery as a result.I assume this is a fused relay or other similar problem in the glow plug controller.I was hoping to find a tutorial that would allow me to pull the controller so I could inspect or at least a picture that would show me what I am looking to remove.
  5. Hello, I believe the glow plug controller on my car is defective.It is delivering 10 volts to the plug even when the ignition is not engaged.Has anyone seen a good tutorial on how to locate remove and replace the controller?