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Found 1 result

  1. Greetings all, I've been off this site for a while, but after dealing with several EGR plugging issues (I've lost count, but I think I'm on my fifth change) and noticing the profuse amounts of oil accumulation at the CCV hose connection on the intake line, I've decided to try and rectify this issue. I've TIG welded a small canister to fit the best location I can find in the engine bay and am planning to install it next week (as I've booked the week off from work and was planning to do an oil change, plus doing these mods). But before I do ANY installations, I'd like to know if anybody else has come up with one? My plan was to locate it on the passenger's side of the engine compartment, inbetween the wheelwell plastic liner and the small computer bolted to the frame rail. I noticed it could accomodate a decently large canister and mine measures approximately 5 X 5 X 2" (well, it tapers down to 1" width-wise because of the wheelwell, but nonetheless). My diesel truck-owning coworker (Ford F250) is familiar with the EGR/PCV issues inherent with diesels and we poked around in the engine bay of my car, offering suggestions. My plan was to just run a vent line to the atmosphere out of the canister, but he said when he did that with his truck, the stink was unbearable. He said I could try and venting to atmosphere first and see how it smells, but figures I'll run it back into the intake shortly afterwards. I think it'll defeat the purpose and just reintroduce oil vapours back into the intake circuit. Although as I've looked into mine, I think the issue with profuse amounts of oil is just because it literally dumps right out of the valve cover into the intake pipe (not like a true PCV system that uses a valve. I used my boroscope and looked down the inside of the valve cover and it's just a long passage way, no valving or anything preventing liquid from coming out). With my canister I made, the line I plan to run will go UP first, before making a long route to the canister, thereby reducing oil LIQUID from getting into the canister. Any thoughts? My other job is going to do something about the EGR valve. I'm not keen on removing it entirely, I like the idea of a blank-off plate (as described elsewhere in this forum). My concern is, are there any LONG-TERM issues doing this? Threads I've seen about this go back to 2012 (and earlier in most cases). What I'm worried about is any increased heat that may result in the combustion chamber from the lack of "cooled" exhaust gas coming in. I've seen the Emulator and that's cool, but I already have the MB actuator patch cable installed and it appears to work awesome. My last EGR plugging didn't trip the error code, so it looks like it works (or so I think... The car did it's usual bogging-down, no-more-than-2000RPM running bit but DIDN'T trip the check-engine light. Sure enough, the EGR was plugged... Again... ). Sorry for the long post and any repost this may be. Like I've said, it's been a while since I was last here. Thanks, Peter