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Found 5 results

  1. I made this video for a friend of mine to show how to lubricate the clutch actuator. One of the easiest things you can do to extend the life of one of the main wear components on your car. Cheers, -Iain
  2. Hey everyone! New to the forum and would like to ask for some advice from some more knowledgeable people. Recently obtained a smart fortwo CDI 2005 model. I've also owned another but have never experienced this problem. I was driving my smart fortwo CDI and was accelerating in the acceleration lane. I attempted a downshift (note that I don't have a tach on the dash) and the car had a bit of a kickback but continued on. About a mile later, there was another kickback (I forget if I downshifted or not) but the 3 dashed lines appeared on the dash. I was still driving at around 40mph and was still able to accelerate to 50mph but once there was traffic, I slowed down and realized the transmission was no longer engaged to the engine. I was unable to shift the car back into drive or reverse and when I do, it is accompanied by a rumble from the transmission. I am still able to start the car but unable to shift it into gear. So the possibilities I came up with are: 1) First two gears in the transmission are stripped, which would require a new transmission. 2) Clutch was already worn and burned out due to downshift at high speed. Clutch actuator was already adjusted all the way in from previous owner which leads me to believe that it was already worn out to a certain extent. Thanks in advance, Cheers!
  3. Originally from Speedie's post in the How-To section of the forums: here Well the clutch actuator is supposed to be self lubricating - but the number of units getting replaced for high mile cars is a bit bothersome. So nothing a bit of preventitive maintenance can't help. I noticed shifts especially 1-2 were getting a little bumpy. So when I was doing a bunch of stuff like changing the transmission fluid I decided to do a quick lube. Here are the steps - First get the butt end of your car up in the air as high as you can - I use ramps - you need to get to the back side of the bell housing. Make sure you block the wheels and do other safety stuff like staple any small children around to trees (for their own protection). You will need some of this stuff - white spray grease - you may be tempted to use a lesser product like your kid's hair gel - but don't. Locate your clutch actuator - it looks like this - and yes I know there is a crack in my intercooler inlet - soon to be patched Gently with your fingers not a screw driver or other sharp thing - move the rubber boot out of the way - punch a hole in it with a sharp thing you won't be happy - note that some people skip this step and just squeeze the lube tube down the side of the rod - mine was having none of that! With the boot held out of the way squirt the lube down the rod into the acutator - you don't need to fill it but a good gob in there will be good. Gently put the boot back - I found it went on real easy by starting one edge - squeeze a bit more on - turn the boot - squeeze - until it all pops on. Drive away with a new smooth shifting smart (make sure you take it off the ramps first!) - I was dubious but it really smooths out the shifts. And yes - I did clean up under there while I was at it! Everything is shinyier now! Added by Alex: The end of the actuator rod, the outer end that contacts the throw-out fork inside the clutch housing has been known to wear. A very small shot of lube there is beneficial. Be very sparing, be sure the tube is parallel to the rod and on the outside (relative to the clutch). Grease contamination on the clutch is a very bad thing! Anytime the actuator is being mechanically adjusted it is a very good idea to pull it out and put a blob of heavy "Black Grease" on the tip of the rod. "Black Grease" being the heavy sticky molybdenum disulphide grease. Good staying power for surfaces that don't really slide but just work back and forth a tiny bit. More and more reports of a very expensive repair needed due to the the fork/actuator rod wearing are surfacing. Lubing of this point should be done on a regular basis. The blob of heavy black grease is much better than the spray lube, but does need you to re & re the actuator and get a clutch adjustment done. If you get the actuator back in the exact same location this can be skipped. A bonus is that this keeps the screws from seizing when you do finally need to change the actuator. Update: My clutch finally packed it in at 228K km (mostly city and local busy highways, so an awful lot of shifts in that distance) and the fork was in fine shape. So with regular lubing a fork will easily last the life of a clutch. See this thread for more on the actuator rod/fork wear problem. Credits: Speedie
  4. Evilution says to loosen the 3 bolts, slide to right and then let it slide back itself and tighten after 5 seconds. Does the car need to be in gear or in neutral and do I need to disconnect the electrical connector? http://www.evilution.co.uk/Engine/clutch_adjustments.htm On the other hand, on another forum, a guy actually moved the actuator 1/8 inch to the drivers side and said it worked wonders. Any thoughts which way to go on this? I'm eager to try this today. http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f1...justment-43284/
  5. I have a problem with my smart, i thing the Actoator is the problem... Car won't move, but i can ear something under the car. I remove the actuator, evrerything look good, but when i want to reinstall it, impossible ! The "arm" seems to be extented at the max. I can not align the hole for the screw.. It is possible to "press in" the arm ? ANd I have this Code : P0702 Transmission Control System Electrical Mine looks longer ??