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      [IMPORTANT] Club smart Car Website Migration - July 2024   07/07/2024

      Hello everyone, we will be looking to migrate the Club smart Car website to a new web host and update the software so that it is on the latest version and has security features such as HTTPS:// which is now the industry standard. A lot of web browsers are marking the website as Not Secure due to this.   In the coming days, you may notice this website go offline in its current form. You will be redirected to a new website URL which will be in use to direct you to the new version of the website. We are hoping to obtain the ownership of clubsmartcar.ca and clubsmartcar.com so you can continue using these links in the near future.   The new forum will look slightly different aesthetically, but will contain all the forum posts from the many years this community has existed! This was the most important to the group looking to keep the community going. Your usernames and passwords will also remain the same.   Unfortunately, the Wiki portions (including the VIN database) will not be able to be migrated in its current form, but the list is preserved and we will look to have the information available again in time. The chatbox will also be removed.   This step is important for the continuity of this community. We are very grateful to those who have graciously run the website in the past, however, currently we have no guarantees of the website continuing on, so we are taking these steps while we can, to keep Club smart Car going into the future.   If you have any questions, please comment in this thread. Otherwise, please stay tuned for the new website URL!   Thank you, -Awesys

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Found 29 results

  1. Hi all. I hope someone can give me a bit of advice or has seen this fault before. Just after Christmas the car failed to start after we had been using it and we had to be recovered to my garage. With the key inserted everything appeared normal with the cluster display normal and various relays clicking as usual. All appeared normal just no start up. The garage found a fault code related to the immobiliser which they cleared and the car started no problem. Then about 10 days ago the car was in the garage for a drive belt replacement and wouldn’t start when I went to collect it. The garage did a bit more fault finding and there was no voltage at the starter motor. There was an immobiliser fault code again which was cleared and subsequently the car started- 12volts was then at the starter motor as expected. Tried to start and stop the car a few more times and didn’t fail so I took the car home. Used it at the weekend and ended up getting recovered home again as the car would not start and wouldn’t bump start either. At the moment the car is on my drive not doing anything. All the lights and relays appear to be normal? Has anyone seen this before or had similar. Am now awaiting an auto electrician to come and look but any ideas would be greatfully received!
  2. Yup! another crank no start. But I feel like I have checked everything so I am hoping that someone can give me a few more leads. Son was driving our 2006 Fortwo CDI (Diesel) when it suddenly started to lose power, he pulled over and shut it down. After we towed it home it will now crank and possibly run for a few seconds, but it will never stay running, and there is now chance that you can drive it at all. Now I can crank and crank and it sounds like it will start to catch but it won't. Below are all the things I have checked. - An external fuel relay was added a couple months ago. - Fuel filter changed and lots of diesel coming out at the rail. - I tested each injector by removing it, pressurizing it on the rail and then applying voltage manually. All three injectors had good strong spray pattern of diesel. - I couldn't tell if the wires at the injectors were actually sending voltage as my multimeters wouldn't work with Min / Max function. - I went through the SAM and didn't find any burnt wires or melted connectors. - Crank Position Sensor was replaced. - I have a new strong battery, new alternator, new starter, new glow plugs, timing chain and guide were just done. I don't have a tool to test the high pressure rail as my pressure tester doesn't go high enough. What am I missing or what else can I look for??
  3. I have a 2006 fortwo diesel that my son basically did a full rebuild on. Cylinders, pistons, rings, timing chain and guides, valves, starter, alternator etc. Most it was for fun. But suddenly this week the car has lost all power. It will fire up and idle for about 20 seconds and then just dies. You can't move it at all. Since we are getting power to the fuel pump we think the fuel pump is just done. So I figure I'd replace the pump and filter right away and maybe the crank sensor if its accessible? BUT I've been searching for a place that sells fuel pumps and haven't found anything. Where are you guys, ordering things from? Any places in Canada?
  4. The clutch in my 2005 ForTwo diesel died suddenly. Getting a replacement was a challenge but was accomplished. However, I'm in the States - New York to be precise - and the reactions I get when asking if someone can work on this car are almost priceless. Are there any suggestions on how to find a transmission shop that would be likely to want to take this on? Most people around here have never encountered this car, which was brought in from Canada. If towing it back was feasible, I would do that, but that would be expensive and a huge investment of time. Is this worth making a ton of phone calls or is there a quicker method of finding the right place?
  5. $1200. This car requires a new PCM unit I am selling as an "as is" car will start ,has brand new alternator installed last week that cost $800 . Car is in fair overall condition is just too expensive for me to repair. Tires have .32 tread on them all round , after market heated seats.Glass is good ,windows work. Body good Located in Duncan , BC on Vancouver Island Please email with questions thanks mbruce8@shaw.ca
  6. Hello I'm parting out my 2005 smart fortwo cdi. One of the valves got damaged from the rocker and it isn't worth fixing anymore. Besides that everything else worked great. 2 of 3 injectors were recently rebuilt. New crank sensor. New fuel regulator. High pressure pump still cranks at 379 bar. Alternator and starter both work great. Summer tires on alloys and winter tires on steelies. Turbo, muffler. Let me know what you need and we can work something out! Everything is available still!
  7. Hi everyone, I am new to the forum and have been learning lots from the forum. I just inherited a 450 CDI and it is due for an oil change. I have a pump on order and have been looking into appropriate oils. This thread in particular has been very helpful: However I have one question I am hoping for some clarification on. It appears that people like the Rotella T6 oil, and it appears that Shell is also making Motomaster brand oils, however I am not sure which is appropriate for the 450. Canadian Tire lists both a regular full synthetic which meets MB spec 229.3 and 229.5, but has a statement about gasoline engines on the back: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-5w40-synthetic-engine-oil-5-l-0288720p.html#plp And a diesel-specific full synthetic which does not: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-5w40-synthetic-diesel-engine-oil-5-l-0287941p.html#plp My instinct tells me that the regular full synthetic that states the MB spec is the correct oil - can anyone confirm? Thanks in advance.
  8. Hello all, I've been leaching knowledge from this site for many years but have never actually made a post! I'm hoping somebody might be able to come up with something obvious that I'm missing, here's what's going on: My 2006 Smart Fortwo CDI started intermittently stalling when decelerating to a stop and occasionally when accelerating from a stop. When I put the scanner on it I get P0087 for low rail pressure/fuel system pressure. I've done the following: • Replaced fuel filter • Had the wife turn the ignition on while I held a disconnected fuel line in a bottle • Pulled SAM unit out, inspected plugs but didn't unfold for fear of cracking the old crusty circuit board • Bypassed SAM unit fuel pump relay and set up an external one • Removed EGR and thoroughly cleaned it • Resealed the injection pump with the Bosch CP1 kit You can hear the low pressure pump running with the ignition on. It runs constantly though and I never noticed if it did before or not. Some things that I was considering doing but haven't yet are: • Remove and inspect/clean the fuel pressure sensor (I read that it has a screen that can get clogged) • Dropped the fuel tank to remove and inspect/test the pump Has anybody been down this road with theirs before? Mine is a convertible with 130,000km on it and was honestly the best performer out of the three I've had up until this point. I appreciate any direction and apologize for my first post on here being a "help me please"!
  9. I own a 2005 smart diesel with starting issues. Looking for a good mechanic to help me sort out my issues with the car. I am located in the Lunenburg NS area. Thanks.
  10. So first I sold my baby 450 cdi 2005 and I made 130000 km ( now car have 180000 km). I want to buy newer one 451 cdi, I already own one with 45 hp and it is good. Now I wish to buy 54 hp, I read about dpf problem so I want to ask cen I remove dpf and make remap and I sort that problem and how is that engine is it good or 45 hp is better. Price is 100 eur more for used one. It have 100000 km 2012 year. This is my old one (red one diesel) And white one I have my women drives 461 cdi 45 hp) So I won't to be faster and buy 54 hp cdi😁 Many thanks for helping me.
  11. Good complete engine for sale in St Catharines, Ontario. $500 or best offer. Also several other parts like used intercooler, good muffler. Etc
  12. A problem that has happened twice in the last 2 months is that after parking my diesel Smart for half an hour or so, the engine won't start. The alternator and battery are good as it attempts several times to turn over the engine. After towing on a flat bed, it starts fine. Obviously the dealer is not finding problems. The bouncing on the flat bed seems to "repair" any loose connections or is this a bad area to look at? Are there special diagnostic tools that can trace the CAN history for intermittent loss of signals? After 13 years and 210,000 km I want to keep it going.
  13. Hey folks! New member and Smart driver here. I got my 2006 Fortwo in May (Diesel engine) so it will be my first winter driving him. Any tips? I have winters (Continentals on the front, Blizzaks on the rears) that I'm getting put on this weekend (along with an oil change). I plan on driving automatic, and I come from driving a 2003 Cadillac Seville (a wee bit of a size difference!). The Caddy was a tank in the snow and I was never worried about driving it in the winter, no matter the weather. I'm not as confident with the Smarty so please, ease my mind! I'm located in Ottawa and we had a lot of accumulation last year. Specific questions: How do they handle in heavy snow? On ice? On snowy, icy hills? What the heck are glow plugs and what does that mean for starting it? (I know, super basic. Bear with me.) Do I need to plug it in in the winter for it to start? And really, anything else you can think of that I haven't! Thanks everyone!
  14. So I purchased a 2005 CDI fortwo a few weeks ago. I live in Florida and it’s 60 degrees this morning car won’t start. When I first turn the key over I notice the glow plug light doesn’t come on for more than 1 or 2 seconds then goes off. Every video I have seen it comes on and stays on for a bit until the glow plugs are heated up then they start it. Haven’t really had any issues until this morning. Battery is brand new been trying to start it for about 30 minutes now. Any ideas? Thank you.
  15. Greetings from Edmonton, AB! I own a 2005 smart fortwo cdi, I've had it for 2 years as of this summer. It is my daily driver and I love it!
  16. Hello, From what I gather from reading on here, the issue I am currently having with my 2005 Smart could be a clogged CGR valve. I also drive like a granny, all city driving, and haven't been redlining it as suggested to blow it out. This car has sentimental value as I inherited it from my dad and he received his new Smart Car on the day my eldest child was born, in 2004. So she's had a lot of family history, but now I've just put in a thousand dollar struts/spring repair, new battery, and last year new alternator. So she's getting costly, but only has 150000 kms and I would like to see if I could get a few more. My question is, has anyone had any luck with fuel additives, someone suggested Mulligan's diesel fuel conditioner, but I see the company in Canada just filed for receivership. Someone else had luck with biodiesel to clean out the gunk, but I have no clue where I could even buy any in Canada and I'd likely burn down the house making it. The repair posted on here is far out of my realm, as you know these engines are difficult to access, and looks quite involved. It's obviously winter now, the check engine light is intermittently on, then goes into limp mode. When the light is off the power is fine, but has been more on then off lately. I hope this isn't the whole turbo exhaust unit needing fixing, because I would have to scrap her. Anyone have any ideas?
  17. Hi, I want to install an electric heater in a petrol car and probably would need more current at idle RPM. At idle, alternator can only provide around 40% of rated current (75A is rated at around 2500RPM). The questions are: 1. is alternator's pulley size different in diesel and petrol cars? From some pictures I found, diesel one seems to be bit smaller (= more RPM). 2. If different, are the alternators otherwise more or less compatible in terms of mounting to the engine? 3. Can I spin the alternator slightly faster than rated? In electrical theory there should be no problem.
  18. Hello all, As my screen name states, I am Paul, recently joined. If you take the time to read my profile page you know where my next question comes from. The (5 or so) adult volunteers of our "SleutelclubHouten" (mechanical tinkering club from Houten NL) would like to start a project of our own and we thought the creation of -a diesel driven motorcycle- would be a real challenge. Since the Smart ForTwo Cdi is the smallest production diesel car it caught our attention as a donor engine. What do you think, wouldn't that be a nice challenge? Does anyone have knowledge of an engine lying around somewhere (preferably in NL) or even a complete car that was written off by its owner? Mind you, we are all volunteers and the club is totally running on donations so money is an issue :-) Hope to hear from you all with any information that can help us get this project started. Regards, Paul
  19. Hi there! This will be my first winter with my 2005 diesel smart car. It's been extremely cold these past few days and my car has not been able to start. I was told that leaving it plugged in for an hour in the morning before work using the block heater would help. I got the car used and unfortunately I don't really know much about cars although I'm eager to learn. There's what I'm assuming is the converter on the left front of the car, I was told the block heater was sold separately and directly from Mercedes-Benz. If anyone could provide some insight on this (ie. pictures of what either would look like?) or provide feedback on how they keep their cars going in the winter it would be much appreciated!! Audrey
  20. Help, bought an old 2006 Diesel Pure which was running for 1 day but now cannot shift into gear and the alternator has no more output either. Could this be why it doesn't go into gear...just a clunky noise and some movement, all gets louder when in reverse. Charged the battery and it starts but still won't go into gear proper. So, looking for either a parts car, actuators, alternator and ??? I am in NS but can arrange for shipping, even a whole car. Call me pls if you have parts/car. 902 880 6010
  21. Help, bought an old 2006 Diesel Pure which was running for 1 day but now cannot shift into gear and the alternator has no more output either. Could this be why it doesn't go into gear...just a clunky noise and some movement, all gets louder when in reverse. Charged the battery and it starts but still won't go into gear proper. So, looking for either a parts car, actuators, alternator and ??? I am in NS but can arrange for shipping, even a whole car. Call me pls if you have parts/car. 902 880 6010
  22. I sold my beloved smartie and am missing it terribly. I love that car. I would like another one just like the other one, but mine stopped starting and no one here knew how to fix it. If you have already addressed that common starting problem and you have a low km excellent condition car, I am most interested. Hoping for under 4 thousand. Keith, I would love your red one, but it is just more than my budget. Thank you.
  23. Hello all! My Smart sat idle in my garage for about a year and a half, until i could find a proper electrician to fix my broken SAM unit. After, finally, i 've brought it back home i noticed that the gearbox often fails to automatically up-shift and have to "help" it manually. When it fails to shift, i notice that the engine is revving but seems it needs a few more RPMs to shift. Also when trying to rev it out of gear, it only reaches ~3200 RPM, and the accelerator pedal is "dead" in the upper half. It is true that i don't quite remember how much RPMs i was getting about a year ago before the electrical problems. So, my questions are as follows: 1. How much RPMs do your CDIs get when revved while stationary (and in neutral, of course) ? 2. Is it more likely to be a gearbox issue or engine one? I must mention that the engine seems to run as smooth as ever with no black smoke or rough starts. Also the gearbox works perfectly in manual mode. LE: Sorry if/for posting in the wrong subcategory. Only now i've observed it's an area for mdifications
  24. Hello, new here...purchased last week a 2006 Pulse, Diesel, but it cannot seem to shift or move anymore. engine runs and the gearbox kind of wants to go but slips (?). There is a loss of engine and or gearbox oil evident under the car. As I have no idea nor a manual for the Smart, can someone answer me the following: Is the gearbox and engine oil filler the same (ie engine); what oil is being used in the gearbox, if any? And where is the fill spout located? Is the only dipstick one for the engine oil? Yes I know, stupid ...but rather than guessing...expert advise is needed. If there is an expert in Nova Scotia....would be great to hear of him. Perhaps I got taken and bought a real heap of junk...but it looked so good, haha... Pm or comment pls. Thanks!
  25. Hello everyone! Recently purchased a 2006 Grandstyle 0.8 CDI for my brother about 2 weeks ago, and am thinking of purchasing one for myself (1hr commute on south western ontario highways to Waterloo for school)... Currently own a petrol bug that just seems to drink way too much gas in comparison to the adorable smart car. Thinking of getting a CDI just for fuel mileage even though they are about 11 years old now However I drive a lot on awful roads to get to school and to get to work. Near Waterloo (back country roads) does anyone have any experience ? Also, any advice on safety ratings? My boyfriend is very "large truck" oriented and believes it's a death trap.