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Found 9 results

  1. That's what the dealer calls it. The Germans call it a mixing housing.Back in early June I started to get a check engine light. The scan gauge(gotta love it) was showing PO401-exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient and PO402-excessive. I spoke to one of the techs and he said that I needed a new EGR valve.This isn't the first one that they replaced.My Gina has over 86,000kms and is out of warranty. Prior to running out of warranty I had complained about some black tarry leakage from what I thought was the turbo. Well that was probably caused from the blocked egr valve so my dealer was kind enough to help me with the costs. I just got my camera back so I thought you might be interesred in some pictures.The EGR valve was replaced on the 9th of July and my baby is back to normal
  2. The EGR valve in the smart is a mixing chamber which brings exhaust back into the air going to the engine, in order to increase temperatures, which should result in lower NOx emissions. The issue in the smart is that the soot and gunk in the exhaust solidifies inside the EGR valve, which eventually stops the flapper inside from moving. Once it stops moving, you'll get an engine light (Probably with code P0403 or P0405), and you'll be stuck in limp mode, which will reduce your power and prevent you from exceeding 3000 RPM. At that point, you need to clean out the EGR valve. Once you've done it once, you're not going to want to do it again, so you'll want to block or delete your EGR. There are generally 3 methods for preventing the EGR from clogging up, each with it's own advantages and disadvantages. 1) EGR Emulator This method is probably the easiest method, however, if your EGR valve isn't freshly cleaned, you may still have an issue in the future. Essentially, you get a circuit board that plugs in in place of the EGR valve. This circuit tells the EDG that the EGR valve is responding normally, and everything is working fine. In reality, once you've plugged the emulator in, the EGR valve has no power running to it, and the flapper inside should be stuck in its default position, which is to block the exhaust input to the valve (If the EGR isn't completely clean, the flapper may not fully seat closed, resulting in exhaust still entering and slowly clogging the valve again). The only work necessary is to unplug the wiring harness that goes to the EGR valve and connect the EGR Emulator into it. This is possible to do entirely from the engine access hatch under the carpet in the back of the car. The EGR Emulator circuit is available to buy fully assembled from some members on this forum, or on eBay. Alternately, you can buy the components and put the circuit together yourself, using the schematics that can be found HERE (Need to actually find the link!) From the original thread: (Need some actual instructions and pictures) 2) EGR Blocking Plate This method requires a bit more effort to achieve, and requires removal of the back panels of the car. Essentially, you disconnect the exhaust line that leads to the EGR valve, insert a solid plate in between the valve and the line, then reconnect everything. This way, no exhaust can enter the mixing chamber, and there is no way it can become clogged again. In this case, the flapper inside the EGR valve continues to move as it normally would, and as such, if the valve is clogged, it will need to be cleaned out. This is essentially a fully preventative measure, rather than a cure itself. (Someone please document how to actually get in to insert the block plate! Pictures too if possible!) (Leave this in towards end, small additional tip to the main body) Many of the EGR pipe flanges have distorted, causing an exhaust leak. Not enough to lose power, but an annoying "whistling fart" noise and a lot of soot in the vicinity. Filing/sanding the ears of the blocking plate is an excellent idea. Fit by feel is best, hard to precisely define how much to remove. Look the mounting holes and the centre port with the circular seal area, also the metal gasket has a definite formed bead that is the seal point: start the taper about 1/4 of the seal diameter in, so the centre half is left flat then starts to thin. Remove about 15 to 20 thousandths of an inch (a scant whisker) at the outside of the ear, smooth taper out. With the bolts slightly loose you should be able to feel a slight amount of rocking motion. 3) Full EGR Delete This is the most in-depth method, and combines the first two methods, along with some extra work. Doing this will guarantee that your EGR will never clog again! This method involves entirely removing the EGR valve, replacing it with a straight piece of pipe, blocking off the exhaust line (so that it isn't just shooting exhaust into the engine compartment), then emulating the EGR so that the computer doesn't care that it is gone. There's probably more to it too...
  3. Hey everybody, I was playing around with lasers and acid and stuff tonight, and decided to take some pictures. I thought this might be sort of interesting to some of you. Let me back up a bit. I made a batch of EGR emulators a while back for someone, using plain old perfboard (this stuff) and through hole components (Like these). While these worked, they were big, bulky, and took a good amount of time to make. All that in mind, I decided to make my own circuit boards, so that I can use little surface mount components (Like these!) I started by grabbing the latest iteration of the EGR emulator circuit by smartdriver (from here) This is all well and good, but isn't particularly usable in it's current state. With that in mind, I headed over to Digikey and found suitable components to be used in the circuit and ordered them. At this point, I knew the size of the components being used. With that info, I used a circuit layout tool called EAGLE to make the circuit below: Then I hid some of the layers to make this, which is just the bits that we want to actually show up on the circuit board: Now, this is where things start getting fun I grabbed some copper clad board from my stash: Then I cut a 2" strip off of one end (Since this was really just an experiment). I then spraypainted the copper side of the board (Black, although it doesn't really matter). Once the spraypaint was dry, I chucked the now black copper board into my laser cutter/etcher (A 40W CO2 laser, in case you were curious). I used it to etch the black and white inverted image of my circuit from above into the spraypaint, leaving spraypaint only where I wanted my copper lines to be: (Action shot!) Once that was done, I was left with a strip of copper board, with five spraypaint circuits on it. I mentioned acid before, right? This is the part where we start playing with extra dangerous stuff I pulled out my container of Ferric Chloride (Attainable at your nearest quality electronics shop), and got the bubbler going in it (Not just for show!) As it happens, ferric chloride eats (etches) away at copper, but not spray paint (Which makes it an "etch resist"). The bubbler helps this process by keeping the liquid moving, and getting fresh acid in contact with the copper. I threw the copper board into the jug o' acid, and waited. and waited. and waited. The process should only really take 20-30 minutes, but my acid isn't particularly fresh, and has been used a bunch of times before this, so it's slower. Also, it wasn't particularly warm in the basement where I was doing the etching (Heat speeds the process). In the end, it took about 1hr, 10 minutes to etch the exposed copper off of the boards. Once that was done, a quick rubdown of the boards with acetone removed the spray paint, and I was left with this: For scale, each of those etched out circuits is about 1" x 1". The components that go on the board are absolutely miniscule. That's really as far as I got tonight, but it seems like good progress. All that needs to be done after this is to drill a few holes for the wires to connect to the EGR harness, and soldering on the components. That's a job for tomorrow with a magnifier! Hope it was interesting!
  4. For those interested:
  5. This past weekend I've decided to remove my EGR valve completely since I'm running a EGR emulator that I got from Pinhead. As suggested by Bilgladstone, I went to my local CanTire and got a 1-3/4 ID resonator, 18" length, Canadian Tire part #548651. I also found an online source on how to build a tool that can make a bead on the pipe so that the hose won't pop off. Total cost for the mod:EGR Emulator $100Resonator pipe $10Pipe Clamp $5Extra hose clamp $2Scrap metal to cover exhaust pipe $0Total: $117Beading Tool:Old Vice clamp $0Washer $0.80Word of advice - there's very little hose (the elbow that's connected to the bottom of the EGR valve) to fit the resonator pipe, be careful, measure 3x before cutting!Good luck,Izzy
  6. Pretty sure my EGR has failed, so its time to remove it. I have the emulator but thats it. Does anyone still have the pipe and blocking plate left over? I know some batches have been made in the past... Im in need of 1 of each.Im in Toronto
  7. I know there has been a lot of discussion about this much that it is a little confusing. I would like to purchase this emulator from Poland (only place I can find one) : My EGR (2006 450 0.8L) is plugging up often, and the EGR solenoid is not working. Car is running like it is in limp mode. If I purchase this emulator, is it ALL I need to bypass the EGR? Or is there a better place anyone knows of to get one? Thanks
  8. So if one can clear the "emotionally disturbed" code by unplugging the electrical connector and replacing it with the shunt that's already been discussed, what's the point of blanking off the EGR flange? The damn thing's plugged anyway.Comments?
  9. Just recently bought a 2005 Smart Car.Car went into Limp mode after first fuel fill up.Read all the forum notes on here and tried everything.EGR is clean, Turbo turns freely, tried reset, tried battery off for a night, reset all error codes. Checked solenoid on EGR not sure if it works, or not, seems to we took it apart and check inside all seems to work fine. Reassembled it and put it back Only error code 403 comes on. Still limp mode.Bought all the part to make an emulator, but have not tackled that yet. Not sure if we are looking at the right area anymore. Dealer wants more to look at the car then it is worth. So question is any ideas? Anyone have an emulator in the Kelowna are we could try on this car to see if in fact that is the problem?Any advice much appreciated.HD