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Found 7 results

  1. 2005 diesel has a weird noise coming from SAM. attempted to start a few weeks ago and it was trying to start and just shut off and started making this arcing noise. A few months ago I had the normal issue with the connector melting that goes to the fuel pump, I bypassed that and solved that issue. Shortly after that similar issue this time it was a bad ground running to the fuel pump so I fixed that with a new ground. I’ve checked continuity on the ground and it’s good. Fully charged the battery and that’s good. When I move the new connection I made for the fuel pump to a different fuse location the fuel pumps comes on and you can hear it pumping no problem. But you plug it back in where it goes and the noise starts back. So the fuel pump can get power and the ground is good. It’s just that fuse slot for it is where the problem lies. 61100904286__2ECC9F88-DE63-4870-BDFB-380EDB43FC10.MOV
  2. My 06 450 just decided not to start. Turned over fine, but no fire. Glenn (Smart142) said: If its turning over and not starting I would check to see if its getting fuel. Easy to do. Disconnect the line to the common rail with a 14mm wrench. Turn on ignition and see if fuel is being pumped. I did that, and he was right. Then he gave me the cure: ']The problem is electrical. The relay in the SAM is gone. I'm 99% sure. My solution is very inexpensive if you do the repair yourself. Elevate the rear end and remove the rear belly pan. On the passenger side you will see the fuel tank - there is a bundle of wires going to it. Find the 2 thickest wires. One will be brown - cut it and then solder in a wire and run it to the frame for the ground. Cut the other one and add about 8 ft of wire. Run it to the drivers side - locate a rubber grommet. Poke the wire through that - it will come out under the carpet beside the drivers seat. Run that under the carpet and up to the SAM. Add a female connector to the wire. Connect a 10 amp fuse to it. On the left side of the SAM you will see 2 wires connected. Those are the switched connectors. Insert the other blade of the fuse into the connector beside those 2. Turn on the ignition and you should hear the pump running. If you hear it run the smart should now start. If it does you can leave it as is or add a relay to the circuit This fix has worked for me a number of times over the last 5 years. If you aren't able to do the repair yourself you could show a mechanic who could do it in a bout 2 hours max. The alternative is buying a new SAM from the dealer and having it programmed.'' I did the electrical work-around, but it still did not fire. Still no fuel at the rail. It took me a few days, the purchase of a new fuel pump and dropping the fuel tank before I noticed that I had soldered the wrong ground wire to the ground. Removing the tank, I put power to the pump and it worked. I attached the connector to try that, and noticed the orphaned ground wire hanging from it. Boy, was I embarrassed and felt stupid! I got it all put back together and grounded the right wire, and she is purring again. I do love this car! I need to give a hats off to Glenn for an excellent patch around the fuel pump relay. Thanks, Uncle Glenn. I learned a few pitfalls to watch out for when dropping the fuel tank. If anyone is interested, I'll add a post on that.
  3. Hey Gang. Glenn suggested I work around the fuel pump relay, but when I did it still gives no fuel. I put power directly to the pump, and nothing. Anybody got a parts car, willing to part with your fuel pump? 2006 450 cdi. Tedder in Brockville
  4. To remove/replace Fuel Pump/Test Put Smarty on Ramps/Jacks 1,Drain tank as close to mt as possible 2.Remove torx screws holding fuel filler door remove door and rubber and set aside 3.Undo torx screw that holds the fuel filler neck to the body..there is a ground wire attached.. i zip tied it up so in wouldn't fall down 4. Remove front,rear belly pans 5.I braced the fuel tank at this point as I was unsure if it would come crashing down...I drained the fuel better than I expected so no problems.. also cut any zip ties holding wiring harnesses to the tank. 6.Drop the fuel cooler box 2 torx bolts at he back an the plastic nut at the front...I disconnected it and removed it completely to get it out of the way..probably not necessary..... 7.Remove the torx bolt at he front of the tank. 8.The tank should fall down enough to access the fuel pump at the top 9,Disconnect the fuel lines and electrical plugs 10.To remove the pump use a strap wrench to spin the black plastic retaining ring counter clockwise 11.Lift pump out To bench Test 1. The red wire on the pump is the + and the brown is the - 2.Attach a wire to the ground- brown wire (alligator clips) 3. Attach a wire to the positive+red wire (alligator clips) 4. On the positive side wire a 10 amp fuse 5. Immerse pump in ice cream bucket of diesel 6.Put 6-8 inches of fuel line on to the pressure side of the pump and put in the bucket..otherwise when you go to the next step if your fuel pump is good you'll have fuel all over the place!1 7. Connect the +/- to a battery 8.If fuel is flowing back into the pail...all good 9.Pinch off the pressure line and run the pump for 15 sec+ if the fuse doesn't blow and the pumps been pumping during this time than your fuel pump isn't the problem i guess you could check the output pressure if you have the gauge but I'm not a mechanic just a handy dumb truck driver LOL Hope this helps!
  5. I was driving from Williams Lake to Vancouver. I stopped to fill up with fuel in Hope, and then my car wouldn't start. I had it towed to Vancouver Mercedes to have it looked at. I had a standard maintenance to do anyway. They said that the fuel pump failed electrically, and burned up the wiring bundle. To repair this, they need to replace the fuel pump, the wiring bundle. Since the wiring bundle is attached to the SAM, it has to be replaced also, which in turn, means programming new keys. The ESTIMATE for all this is $3400. Does this sound correct to you? can you give me any thoughts? I have standard maintenance, and a couple of other repairs, so the total is looking like $5000, and that means the car might have to go to the auto recyclers. I'd really like any advice from the Smart car club folks. Thanks, Tony
  6. Well, it's my turn I guess. The car is a 2006 CDI, and it's relatively new to me. I have done external relays for the headlights, the starter motor, and the fuel pump. I have been doing quite a bit of work on it (starter motor, fuel filter, external relays, front springs, intercooler) and just a month ago I started using the car every day. I have put about 700 kms without any issues at all. Yesterday after stopping at a store for some bolts, the car cranked over and started really rough, like running on 2 cylinders. It ran like that for about 5 seconds, and I shut it off, afraid it would damage something internally. When I tried again, it cranked and did not fire up. Kept trying several times, without luck. I need to mention here that the entrance to that store is gravel, and full of potholes. I drove in slowly trying to avoid the worst, but maybe something was shaken loose, I think. Called CAA for a tow, and after waiting 5 minutes or so, decided to give the SAM a wack. The car started on the first try after that. Drove it around 5 kms, and when I was just about at my driveway, the engine suddenly quit running as I started out of a stop sign at the corner. With some help, I pushed it into my driveway. Today I was getting ready to do some troubleshooting and on my first try it started right away. Tried about 5 more times successfully every time. I just tried again (following day), and it started fine. I just found out that I put my relay on the wrong wire out of the brown connector, #9 instead of #10. I'm going to fix this, and install a bypass toggle switch on it. I will also clean the pins on the SAM unit and put dielectric grease on everything. Wish me luck. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
  7. This is kinda weird. This has happened a few times in the last couple days. I'm driving my car, everything is fine. I park and turn the car off to go into a store, come out and it will turn over but wont start! It turns over quickly, no sputtering or anything, and doesn't sound like the fuel pump is working. But I leave it for a bit and try it again, and it fires up fine and no problems running. Today it ran fine all the way to work, I parked, turned the car off, and immediately tried to start it and nothing! Turns over, wont start. And if I try to shift while the key is turned, it shows O on the display. It wont go into gear or reverse while this is happening. I'm sure this has happened to someone before, but I cant seem to find a post about it. Any suggestions?