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Found 2 results

  1. So I've been digging around, fantasizing about getting some seriously extended range on this little Smart. Evilution's smart-alec comment about having an extended fuel tank which has fuel dispersion points all over the globe notwithstanding, there's scant little out there for a real haulmeister option. Worse, it seems nobody even makes replacement tanks for the thing. If this one got damaged or rusted through, I'd have to scrounge up a dead Smart or look into one of the tank refurbishment companies -- which is fine, I get it, this is old and uncommon tech, and it's just not cost effective to make something for retail which rarely fails. But it sure does get me wondering what I could do to retrofit an extended-volume or extended-compartment tank on this thing. Thus far it looks like the "best" option would be to make a custom tank that fits in the cargo area above the motor and attach it directly to the main tank. I can't see how that wouldn't be a gravity feed system, though that's acceptable for diesel in DOT; but getting past the "fuel lines in passenger compartment" makes for a tough justification toward compliance. Worse, I'd probably want that 120L of cargo space for actual cargo most of the time, so the tank would have to be easily removable, and that introduces joint sealant issues and... and... and... Yeah. I think a more flexible definition of "extended range" will be needed: A bunch of yellow diesel fuel cans in the cargo compartment and some quick stops to refuel which are not required to coincide with national infrastructure. :: sigh ::
  2. My 06 450 just decided not to start. Turned over fine, but no fire. Glenn (Smart142) said: If its turning over and not starting I would check to see if its getting fuel. Easy to do. Disconnect the line to the common rail with a 14mm wrench. Turn on ignition and see if fuel is being pumped. I did that, and he was right. Then he gave me the cure: ']The problem is electrical. The relay in the SAM is gone. I'm 99% sure. My solution is very inexpensive if you do the repair yourself. Elevate the rear end and remove the rear belly pan. On the passenger side you will see the fuel tank - there is a bundle of wires going to it. Find the 2 thickest wires. One will be brown - cut it and then solder in a wire and run it to the frame for the ground. Cut the other one and add about 8 ft of wire. Run it to the drivers side - locate a rubber grommet. Poke the wire through that - it will come out under the carpet beside the drivers seat. Run that under the carpet and up to the SAM. Add a female connector to the wire. Connect a 10 amp fuse to it. On the left side of the SAM you will see 2 wires connected. Those are the switched connectors. Insert the other blade of the fuse into the connector beside those 2. Turn on the ignition and you should hear the pump running. If you hear it run the smart should now start. If it does you can leave it as is or add a relay to the circuit This fix has worked for me a number of times over the last 5 years. If you aren't able to do the repair yourself you could show a mechanic who could do it in a bout 2 hours max. The alternative is buying a new SAM from the dealer and having it programmed.'' I did the electrical work-around, but it still did not fire. Still no fuel at the rail. It took me a few days, the purchase of a new fuel pump and dropping the fuel tank before I noticed that I had soldered the wrong ground wire to the ground. Removing the tank, I put power to the pump and it worked. I attached the connector to try that, and noticed the orphaned ground wire hanging from it. Boy, was I embarrassed and felt stupid! I got it all put back together and grounded the right wire, and she is purring again. I do love this car! I need to give a hats off to Glenn for an excellent patch around the fuel pump relay. Thanks, Uncle Glenn. I learned a few pitfalls to watch out for when dropping the fuel tank. If anyone is interested, I'll add a post on that.