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Found 5 results

  1. Yup! another crank no start. But I feel like I have checked everything so I am hoping that someone can give me a few more leads. Son was driving our 2006 Fortwo CDI (Diesel) when it suddenly started to lose power, he pulled over and shut it down. After we towed it home it will now crank and possibly run for a few seconds, but it will never stay running, and there is now chance that you can drive it at all. Now I can crank and crank and it sounds like it will start to catch but it won't. Below are all the things I have checked. - An external fuel relay was added a couple months ago. - Fuel filter changed and lots of diesel coming out at the rail. - I tested each injector by removing it, pressurizing it on the rail and then applying voltage manually. All three injectors had good strong spray pattern of diesel. - I couldn't tell if the wires at the injectors were actually sending voltage as my multimeters wouldn't work with Min / Max function. - I went through the SAM and didn't find any burnt wires or melted connectors. - Crank Position Sensor was replaced. - I have a new strong battery, new alternator, new starter, new glow plugs, timing chain and guide were just done. I don't have a tool to test the high pressure rail as my pressure tester doesn't go high enough. What am I missing or what else can I look for??
  2. Hi Boys, I wondering if there is anyone on Vancouver Island with a STAR for a quick scan on my daughters car. Its an intermittent stall, no-start condition that has the fingerprints of the corroded fuel pump connection in the SAM. Ive driven it a while and finally got it to quit today so before I go rippin and tearin, thought a STAR scan might be wise. Based on what Ive read on this in here this condition can go one of many ways. I did a regular scan a few weeks ago and got a P0087 code, then cleared it and drove it until failure. With this recent no-start, no codes showed with a conventional scanner. The dealer in Victoria is functionally unavailable. I would sure take some advice on how to buy/organize a STAR set-up, too. Thanks in advance Boys.
  3. So the work on my wee beastie has begun. Got all the pieces I could find put back onto the car. Replaced the battery. Cleaned corrosion from the cables using some liquid spray thingy from the oil cupboard. Probably Penetrating Oil LOL. Didn't have any carb cleaner or battery cleaner handy. The corrosion colony on the positive terminal was advanced enough to apply for citizenship. Marveled at the female 110 outlet stowed in the battery compartment. Female. As in, the thing you plug your equipment into. Does this thing have an inverter on it? Looks like a factory thing (??). Unlike the other wiring added on the other side of the battery compartment which looks like a reasonably-well done custom mod. Replaced the key battery. Figured out how to mate the key back to the car (sort of; it seems I have to repeat the procedure every day. That will get old quickly, but sort of acts like an additional anti-theft device, so maybe I can convince myself it's a good thing). Started it. Yes. She started. Sitting 4 years with diesel at 3/4 tank, and she started. She didn't run long. She bubbled and glurbled and stumbled and sputtered and stuttered. A few seconds in a belt started to whine; a short while later she surrendered and stalled. No start since; occasional single-pop ignition, not enough to get her going. Recharged battery. :: hangs head in shame :: Two wrenches on console; presumably oil change indicator or the rough equivalent of a check engine light? OBD-II indicates two codes; I can't figure out how to get my reader to show me the second one. Seriously. Programming and using computers since age 14 and I can't find a "Next" button or an arrow key that behaves in an expected manner. Darn kids and their toys. Get off my lawn. Throws P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Presssure Too Low). Presume bad fuel and/or clogged fuel filter. Certainly these need doing anyway, along with the oil and its filter. Speaking of filters, the air filter is half the size of the engine. My friends will no doubt soon tire of my SmartCar stories. I don't care. Found the radio code hand-written in the warranty booklet; unlocked the radio and programmed in four stations to the four buttons.However, Button 1 is also "Scan", so when I press 1 now I get the station I asked for... briefly. LOL Haven't figured out how to get past that. An owner's manual might be helpful. Went looking for owner's manual online. Lots of links teasing me, dangling a purported owner's manual on the other end; but, alas, even including the links from this site; only one downloads a PDF, and my PDF reader can't open it (???). So I'm flying blinder than usual until I can resolve that issue. Yes, computer geek can't find or open a PDF file. Maybe I should retire and garden for a living or something. There's a very nicely done on/off switch which upon closer inspection appears to be mod work; bottom of console/dash, driver's side, near center. It also, upon closer inspection, appears to be popped out of its socket. But it looked nice until that happened. Right side has what appears to be a control knob for... an extra air conditioner? It has a snowflake on it. Can't wait to find out what that's all about, if it works, etc. Filled all the tires back to one pound shy of the indicated pressure (51 PSI; pushed hand compressor to 51 with a one-pound drop after compressor stops). If nothing else I figure it will make it easier to push her around while I wait patiently; oh, so patiently, to get her started. After exuberantly announcing to my wife that she started, ran briefly, and then died, with graphic descriptions and lots of hand motioning, her response was: "You smell like diesel." I have a great support structure over here. Me, Myself, and I (thank goodness for the fourth member of the cheering squad: Ego). Next steps: Purchase: 1/2" drive Torque Wrench 1/2" drive 27mm socket 1-gallon Rotella T6 Oil (yes, it's 5W40 but I keep seeing proclamations that it runs quieter, which I translate as gentler on the motor #thatsmystoryandimstickingtoit ) 1 Pela PL-6000 Suction Pump (for oil extraction) 3 x 5-gallon Yellow Diesel Fuel Containers (Tank is 3/4 full, holds 33L (8.7 gallons?) so probably has 5.85 gallons in it. 2 Cans for extracted fuel; 1 Can for new fuel. Doubles as serious emergency extra supply for long trips into the Grand Canyon or something. Or if I apply the Forsea refit kit, maybe I could use it to get to Hawaii or something. 32-oz bottle of Diesel Kleen Plus Cetane Boost YesCom 12V 5L Oil Fluid Liquid Diesel Fuel Extractor (don't want to mix diesel and oil in the same pump) Mercedes-Benz Fuel Filter E320 (is that right?) Oil filter for 2005 Smart cdi/Canadian from local Mercedes-Benz dealer (may as well get to know them) 2 x Hockey Puck (to put between the jack/jackstand and the lift point) 2 x JackStands Jack (model to be determined). Can jury rig something out of paper clips and rubber bands until then. Trying to use brick-n-mortar stores, but some of this stuff is coming from Amazon. On the week several hurricanes come a-calling. Yes, I have a wonderful sense of timing. I'm sure delivery times will be juuuuuuust fiiiiiiiine. Actions: Remove Oil (don't forget to jack Front Left so we get it all). Replace Oil Filter (don't forget to jack Back Left and Right so we can swing an axe under there) Add new Oil, 2.7L exactly, not 3.0L. Remove "fuel". Change Fuel Filter. Add Kleen Boost. Add new Fuel. Pray. Start Car. (I'm an optimist.) Please oh please oh please don't make me crack the heads open on this wee beastie. Please please please please please.... Also, I need to find out if there's a way to prime the injectors. Haven't found anything on this yet. Will post separate question for that. - Steve M.
  4. Hello all, my 450cdi turned itself off after 5 minutes of running with fresh alternator and serpentine belt. After it turned itself off, it cranked, but wouldn't start afterwards. Any suggestions? Everything seems in place. Quick update: Same thing happened today. Fuel pumping through both send and return lines. Ran for a few minutes, blip of gas, and engine dies. Attempts to fire at first crank rotation, but continues cranking with no catching. Exact same thing happened one year ago, and car hasn't been started since then, until today. It seems to have both fuel and spark. Could this be a problem with air- fuel mixture?
  5. Hello boys I'm you but have read so much I feel like I know you all. Hoping you SMARTYgeniuses can offer some thoughts! My main question is whether or not a buried code can maintain limp mode. A brief history goes like bought the car with 70 thousand easy k's then an immediate remap by Eddie. Routine oil changes and at around 90 periodic limp mode started that was reset with a rest /ignition off. 100 k now on clock. Numbers1 and 2 (mainly #2)injectors leaked a bit then later a fair bit car began to smoke and grossly underperform, then an EGR cleaning then ran like a race car for 3 weeks then gagged for good, smoke and choked. Into shop for the following: 1. Egr out with blocking plate and emulator in; 2. Complete audit of all intake air hoses, intercooler, Turbo, connections, air filter, muffler, no leaks or obstructions; 3. Oil can with lots of ventilation added; 4. Many battery disconnections for limp reset; 5. Number one and two injectors (leakers) out and cleaned with good spray pattern number three is soundly stuck but was not leaking. I listen with the stethoscope and all sounds are uniform at the site of the injectors, new fire rings, no leaks; 6. Fuel filter change the old one was perfectly good; 7. No codes, at least ones that my reader would pick up, have ever been thrown; 8. Clutch actuator is properly adjusted and lubricated. Shifts and starts smooth and crisp. The car now fires right up, idles nicely, no smoke, no hesitation, works great but is in enduring limp mode with maximum RPMs 3250. Also, manifold pressure seems to peak at 189 irrespective of blow-off valve adjustment. I did hear Tolson say a limp condition would cause the ECM to limit fuel so maybe in that condition it cannot generate enough turbo spin to develop full pressure? I am wondering if the manifold pressure sensor ever goes haywire, if the injectors could be faulty or if it is a software problem which brings me back to whether or not I should spring to have the codes cleared (my code reader will not do it) or keep digging into the hardware. I have a whole parts car in good shape so parts are not a problem. I guess the second question is do we know of anyone who has a STAR reader on Vancouver Island? I would go to Eddie Lai in a heartbeat but resist temptation to go to the Steelership. Here is the catch can. I really do appreciate in advance any bits of wisdom you could offer and applaud you all for your ingenuity and resourcefulness. You guys crack me right up. thanks boys!