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Bought a 2006 fortwo diesel at an auction, that did not come with a key, so I ordered one in, trailered the car to Mercedes and they programmed the new key. My son picked up the car when it was done and dropped it back off at my house but it sat for a couple weeks before we could get it into the shop. Last night when we went to look at the car I put the key in the ignition and I am getting the flashing key on the dash. I also found out after talking to my son that when Mercedes had the key programmed they said that they couldn't get the door lock buttons to work to either lock or unlock the car. SO, where do I start? Do I have a bad key or possibly a dead battery in a new key (Ordered via Mercedes)? I'm aware of the door lock relay issues in the SAM, are there any instructions on testing the door locks by bypassing the SAM? Or someone that can show me what pins to power on the SAM to see if the relay is working? I've pulled the SAM out and have done a detailed inspection, under a magnifying glass, of all the solders, wires and pins and the SAM looks brand new. I could not find any issues.

Hello everyone, I am new to this forum...so I apologize in advance if I make any mistake !!! I am a fan of Smart for a long while. I just bought from a dealer in Edmonton a used Smart Fortwo 2014 with a relatively low mileage. I discovered after the transaction that the car was initially a rental from Car2go in Calgary, which is not a problem. The car is in very good shape and works perfectly. However, I only received one key. So I want to have another one, just in case. I was in contact with one of the Mercedes dealer, here in Edmonton, and bought a key and expected it to be program too, however, then an issue arose. It seems that car2go, which is fully own by Daimler the parent company of Mercedes, use some sort of customized software for the SAM module of its car and the Mercedes dealer couldn't reprogram a key. I was then asked to contact car2go in order to get them to either erase their software or provide some information so the dealer can reprogram a new key and then someone else in the dealership explained that it may be only a matter of Mercedes updating their information about the car in their system. So I have another appointment with the dealer to try again to program a second key. But before I go, I would like to gather the most info I can about this kind of situation. While the staff of the dealership seem professional and honest, I would still like to avoid confusing situations where I could be brought to make unnecessary expenses. I'd like to know if anyone is aware of such situation, or has experienced it or if there are any alternative options to get a second key, should the dealer not able to program another one ? Any information would be appreciated! Thanks in advance !

So the work on my wee beastie has begun. Got all the pieces I could find put back onto the car. Replaced the battery. Cleaned corrosion from the cables using some liquid spray thingy from the oil cupboard. Probably Penetrating Oil LOL. Didn't have any carb cleaner or battery cleaner handy. The corrosion colony on the positive terminal was advanced enough to apply for citizenship. Marveled at the female 110 outlet stowed in the battery compartment. Female. As in, the thing you plug your equipment into. Does this thing have an inverter on it? Looks like a factory thing (??). Unlike the other wiring added on the other side of the battery compartment which looks like a reasonably-well done custom mod. Replaced the key battery. Figured out how to mate the key back to the car (sort of; it seems I have to repeat the procedure every day. That will get old quickly, but sort of acts like an additional anti-theft device, so maybe I can convince myself it's a good thing). Started it. Yes. She started. Sitting 4 years with diesel at 3/4 tank, and she started. She didn't run long. She bubbled and glurbled and stumbled and sputtered and stuttered. A few seconds in a belt started to whine; a short while later she surrendered and stalled. No start since; occasional single-pop ignition, not enough to get her going. Recharged battery. :: hangs head in shame :: Two wrenches on console; presumably oil change indicator or the rough equivalent of a check engine light? OBD-II indicates two codes; I can't figure out how to get my reader to show me the second one. Seriously. Programming and using computers since age 14 and I can't find a "Next" button or an arrow key that behaves in an expected manner. Darn kids and their toys. Get off my lawn. Throws P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Presssure Too Low). Presume bad fuel and/or clogged fuel filter. Certainly these need doing anyway, along with the oil and its filter. Speaking of filters, the air filter is half the size of the engine. My friends will no doubt soon tire of my SmartCar stories. I don't care. Found the radio code hand-written in the warranty booklet; unlocked the radio and programmed in four stations to the four buttons.However, Button 1 is also "Scan", so when I press 1 now I get the station I asked for... briefly. LOL Haven't figured out how to get past that. An owner's manual might be helpful. Went looking for owner's manual online. Lots of links teasing me, dangling a purported owner's manual on the other end; but, alas, even including the links from this site; only one downloads a PDF, and my PDF reader can't open it (???). So I'm flying blinder than usual until I can resolve that issue. Yes, computer geek can't find or open a PDF file. Maybe I should retire and garden for a living or something. There's a very nicely done on/off switch which upon closer inspection appears to be mod work; bottom of console/dash, driver's side, near center. It also, upon closer inspection, appears to be popped out of its socket. But it looked nice until that happened. Right side has what appears to be a control knob for... an extra air conditioner? It has a snowflake on it. Can't wait to find out what that's all about, if it works, etc. Filled all the tires back to one pound shy of the indicated pressure (51 PSI; pushed hand compressor to 51 with a one-pound drop after compressor stops). If nothing else I figure it will make it easier to push her around while I wait patiently; oh, so patiently, to get her started. After exuberantly announcing to my wife that she started, ran briefly, and then died, with graphic descriptions and lots of hand motioning, her response was: "You smell like diesel." I have a great support structure over here. Me, Myself, and I (thank goodness for the fourth member of the cheering squad: Ego). Next steps: Purchase: 1/2" drive Torque Wrench 1/2" drive 27mm socket 1-gallon Rotella T6 Oil (yes, it's 5W40 but I keep seeing proclamations that it runs quieter, which I translate as gentler on the motor #thatsmystoryandimstickingtoit ) 1 Pela PL-6000 Suction Pump (for oil extraction) 3 x 5-gallon Yellow Diesel Fuel Containers (Tank is 3/4 full, holds 33L (8.7 gallons?) so probably has 5.85 gallons in it. 2 Cans for extracted fuel; 1 Can for new fuel. Doubles as serious emergency extra supply for long trips into the Grand Canyon or something. Or if I apply the Forsea refit kit, maybe I could use it to get to Hawaii or something. 32-oz bottle of Diesel Kleen Plus Cetane Boost YesCom 12V 5L Oil Fluid Liquid Diesel Fuel Extractor (don't want to mix diesel and oil in the same pump) Mercedes-Benz Fuel Filter E320 (is that right?) Oil filter for 2005 Smart cdi/Canadian from local Mercedes-Benz dealer (may as well get to know them) 2 x Hockey Puck (to put between the jack/jackstand and the lift point) 2 x JackStands Jack (model to be determined). Can jury rig something out of paper clips and rubber bands until then. Trying to use brick-n-mortar stores, but some of this stuff is coming from Amazon. On the week several hurricanes come a-calling. Yes, I have a wonderful sense of timing. I'm sure delivery times will be juuuuuuust fiiiiiiiine. Actions: Remove Oil (don't forget to jack Front Left so we get it all). Replace Oil Filter (don't forget to jack Back Left and Right so we can swing an axe under there) Add new Oil, 2.7L exactly, not 3.0L. Remove "fuel". Change Fuel Filter. Add Kleen Boost. Add new Fuel. Pray. Start Car. (I'm an optimist.) Please oh please oh please don't make me crack the heads open on this wee beastie. Please please please please please.... Also, I need to find out if there's a way to prime the injectors. Haven't found anything on this yet. Will post separate question for that. - Steve M.

Hi, I've been having strange things happen with the central-locking. Simply holding the keyfob the "wrong way" will cause the car's doors to lock/unlock randomly. The key and keyfob otherwise work OK, but I think it's time to swap to the spare key. But I have a problem. The spare key has never worked since we bought the car (we're the second owners). The physical cut of the key looks identical, however it will not turn in the ignition. Is there an electronic lock-out preventing the key turning? The open/close buttons don't work (yes the battery's been replaced ), so I'm thinking at the very least it needs to be sync'd with the SAM. As an experiment, I took the working circuit board out of the working key put it into the spare-key fob. The key still didn't turn. So I think this means that the physical key cutting might not be correct. Before I start comparing the key-cutting under a magnifying glass, does anyone know whether there's anything else preventing the key from turning? Any advice most appreciated.

I just received my new pair of keys ordered from Amazon. They are complete with a new remote transmitter in each. My old original was worn out to the point where all buttons had holes and the transmitter exposed. The board mounted switch for the unlock button has even popped off the board. ( I now start the car by hitting the lock button with the rear hatch open, causing it to lock-unlock and reset the security.) As you can see in the pic, the new cover section fit my original key without an issue. At least the transmitter is out of the weather for now till I can get the new keys programmed and at least one of them cut to match as one will now be used for parts to repair the original. The keys I ordered were: EC-SELLS $16.90 each NOTE!! These will NOT deliver to Canada and are not available on the Amazon.ca site. I had these delivered to a friend in the US then they simply re mailed them to me.

Hi, I'm looking for a Key FOB for a 2005 Smart ForTwo cdi. Someone in Toronto will be copying it for me so if you are in the area that would be ideal. Please send a pm or email me if you have one. steve@communitycomposting.org Thanks so much! Steve

Hello, I'm looking for one or hopefully two FOBs for a 2005 ForTwo (450). I can pay for shipping if you aren't local to Toronto. I don't need the actual key insert or blank - just the FOBs are needed. Please send a PM or text if you have any you could part with. +1 585.201.8111 Many thanks, Steve