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Greeting. I trust all who see this are safe. An introduction. Name is Chris R. Live in south Florida USA. Not from here originally. I am retired and good with cars and wires. The Smart was something different. I found it in a wreckers yard in 2018. Car was in super good shape for a 2006 fortwo CDI. Story I got was it belonged to an old man. The old man went shopping at a local market and died from a heart attack. No family. The car sat a few weeks and the city had the on contract towing company drag it off the lot, no keys. I saw in the wreckers yard, and asked about it, paid 1200$ US for the car, a new key (I had no idea what that take), title, running and dropped off at my door. I got the car dropped buy a roll back at my home 2 months later with a title and a new console they got from a different wrecker with a key. They had no idea how the SAM worked either. So one thing lead to another. I sent the SAM, ECU, cluster a spare SAM and ECU to SOS Diagnostics, Oregon USA. They first spare SAM I got off of eBay was bad. So I had to buy another one (this is all their requirements to do the work). A month later I had the programed SAM and ECU back for close to 1100$ US. I took a month to get to it. Last week I put in the ECU, and SAM. A few things. Someone stole the radio while it was in the wrecker's lot, I had a locksmith with a STAR computer. he could not teach in the key. That's when I called SOS. So I put in the SAM and ECU, the immobilizer released and the newly programmed key unlock the door and back window. I get lights, wipers, window washer. I turn the key, I hear what I think is a fuel pump and a click in the SAM. Nothing from the starter at all. The dash, I don't see the transmission indicator, I get a blinking key non stop. a wrench and some other things. I can run the shifter through the gears and hear the motor moving under the car. I have been talking to Kane over at Evilution. He thinks SOS didn't program the ECU right. SOS asked me to use my universal ODB2 reader and software to see if the ECU was there. I can't see the ECU. Kane looked at a video I took when I turned the key and he saw I had a gas gauge, he said that means the SAM is talking to the ECU. I have made sure the battery is 13 volts + DC. I put a meter on the blue wire that should energize the starter and get nothing out of it when I am turning the key. I am wondering the if CAN ran through the radio and is broke due to cut wires? Any ideas how to further check the SAM ECU?? Can I put 12 volts on the blue wire when I am turning the key to see if the starter turns. I noticed tonight that I have 11.5 volts on the red power wire coming into the SAM. The battery is 13 + volts?? I know I am asking a hundred Please forgive me. I hope someone can give me a good idea what to do. If I can prove to SOS they did not program the ECU right they will replace it they told me. Please forgive me. This is the link to the video I took of the dash when I turned the key. I hoping some of you seasoned Smart owners can tell me what it all means and maybe give a good idea what to try. Thanks much. https://www.icloud.com/attachment/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fcvws.icloud-content.com%2FB%2FARXLuWH2UX5m275RCNHuj_DI8keEAZmrbxEI--WEM9Ni2D3_91lSx3GC%2F%24{f}%3Fo%3DAppMY9vKWtRVRhnTnmg4Kazq7WgkLwoJVKg8RsfYF3hi%26v%3D1%26x%3D3%26a%3DCAogvWQtBt-8P7e_mgME1PWSaT4ryujHhV5u_p8mxiJrTS4SeBCttvGF9S4Yrcbs2f4uIgEAKgkC6AMA_3L1-jBSBMjyR4RaBFLHcYJqJpfR0tzqeN4OAAbKDwlzBqjdXhV_beJZ1K5Azdju69Kugr5QjqjFciaTzPA87XK5CDt75DgQDUMlMDw7aBVXFyYfIR2-hxE_Bgz39RyamQ%26e%3D1614559257%26fl%3D%26r%3D6C17AACB-304E-47CA-AAB3-12B69668ED2A-1%26k%3D%24{uk}%26ckc%3Dcom.apple.largeattachment%26ckz%3DFB018733-47F0-48AB-8B5E-E700B7F661A1%26p%3D68%26s%3DEviE4IW-A_HJWIckbUBI7GCqjG4&uk=inVpVVsvYkGxjaBkVUm8yg&f=IMG_2756.MOV&sz=74147851

Hello all, I've been leaching knowledge from this site for many years but have never actually made a post! I'm hoping somebody might be able to come up with something obvious that I'm missing, here's what's going on: My 2006 Smart Fortwo CDI started intermittently stalling when decelerating to a stop and occasionally when accelerating from a stop. When I put the scanner on it I get P0087 for low rail pressure/fuel system pressure. I've done the following: • Replaced fuel filter • Had the wife turn the ignition on while I held a disconnected fuel line in a bottle • Pulled SAM unit out, inspected plugs but didn't unfold for fear of cracking the old crusty circuit board • Bypassed SAM unit fuel pump relay and set up an external one • Removed EGR and thoroughly cleaned it • Resealed the injection pump with the Bosch CP1 kit You can hear the low pressure pump running with the ignition on. It runs constantly though and I never noticed if it did before or not. Some things that I was considering doing but haven't yet are: • Remove and inspect/clean the fuel pressure sensor (I read that it has a screen that can get clogged) • Dropped the fuel tank to remove and inspect/test the pump Has anybody been down this road with theirs before? Mine is a convertible with 130,000km on it and was honestly the best performer out of the three I've had up until this point. I appreciate any direction and apologize for my first post on here being a "help me please"!

Hi Boys, I wondering if there is anyone on Vancouver Island with a STAR for a quick scan on my daughters car. Its an intermittent stall, no-start condition that has the fingerprints of the corroded fuel pump connection in the SAM. Ive driven it a while and finally got it to quit today so before I go rippin and tearin, thought a STAR scan might be wise. Based on what Ive read on this in here this condition can go one of many ways. I did a regular scan a few weeks ago and got a P0087 code, then cleared it and drove it until failure. With this recent no-start, no codes showed with a conventional scanner. The dealer in Victoria is functionally unavailable. I would sure take some advice on how to buy/organize a STAR set-up, too. Thanks in advance Boys.

Hello I have an 08 smart 451 convertable the alt belt broke on me last night. So this morning I replaced it. It broke close to home so was a safe drive. I took the car this am to get replacement. But again short trip and I let it cool before heading home. Replaced the belt and car fired up. Ran rough but took it around the block. Got home and it stalled pulling into laneway. But fired back up and ran great. Went about 5 min drive to work and car was fine. 5 mins later no start. Engine cranks but appears to have no spark. I’ve checked a few grounds and seem to be fine. The tensioner was a struggle so I’m wondering if I could have bumped somthing. Any suggestions on where to check that I am obviously missing

Hello I have an 05 smart cdi I just purchased this car. I have electrical problems and this is my first smart car. So not very familiar with the product. When I put the key in and try to start the is clicking from the Sam. It sounds like several relays clicking. The wipers turn on and will not shut off. Every time the wipers cycle it almost sounds like turn signal clicking from Sam. The key is flashing on the cluster but can’t seem to reprogram to clear. The power seems to really dim when wipers cycle. And slow operation. It is a new battery that has been charged and tested. The fuse box was not bolted in but seems dry without any corrosion from prev leak. When I hit the lock/unlock when key is in run position the cluster dims and clicks but that is it. Any suggestions on things to check 05 cdi cabrio

Well, it's my turn I guess. The car is a 2006 CDI, and it's relatively new to me. I have done external relays for the headlights, the starter motor, and the fuel pump. I have been doing quite a bit of work on it (starter motor, fuel filter, external relays, front springs, intercooler) and just a month ago I started using the car every day. I have put about 700 kms without any issues at all. Yesterday after stopping at a store for some bolts, the car cranked over and started really rough, like running on 2 cylinders. It ran like that for about 5 seconds, and I shut it off, afraid it would damage something internally. When I tried again, it cranked and did not fire up. Kept trying several times, without luck. I need to mention here that the entrance to that store is gravel, and full of potholes. I drove in slowly trying to avoid the worst, but maybe something was shaken loose, I think. Called CAA for a tow, and after waiting 5 minutes or so, decided to give the SAM a wack. The car started on the first try after that. Drove it around 5 kms, and when I was just about at my driveway, the engine suddenly quit running as I started out of a stop sign at the corner. With some help, I pushed it into my driveway. Today I was getting ready to do some troubleshooting and on my first try it started right away. Tried about 5 more times successfully every time. I just tried again (following day), and it started fine. I just found out that I put my relay on the wrong wire out of the brown connector, #9 instead of #10. I'm going to fix this, and install a bypass toggle switch on it. I will also clean the pins on the SAM unit and put dielectric grease on everything. Wish me luck. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

A couple of months ago in Seattle my battery light came on, had it replaced. Tried to drive back to Canada and ten minutes out from the shop the battery light came back on, than all the dash lights came on and my lights started to dim flicker and my radio died. Managed to make it back to the shop and had a friend bring down an alternator to get replaced. In Kelowna now and on the road back to Vancouver the battery light started to intermittently go on, turned around and came back to my friends house. Two minutes from the house all the dash lights came on, battery light stayed on. Turned off the car and now it won't turn back on. Pulled up the passenger side floor to check the battery and noticed dampness, but not near the battery. Opened the engine compartment and noticed that the back carpet was soaked. Could a leak in the cabriolet cause damage to electrical components? If it is an electrical charging problem I heard that you could hook up a spare battery temporarily to the existing to add power enough to not get a tow. As that runs about $700 back to the city. Has anyone heard of this?