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Found 4 results

  1. So when I purchased my used 06 Smart Fortwo it drove great around town. The first trip out of town I took i started to have what seemed like a random stalling issue. It always allowed me to restart after about 30 seconds when you could hear the Sam unit reset. I drove the car like this for a couple months trying to figure out exactly how I could replicate the stalling issue. While I wasnt able to figure out exactly what was causing it, I was able to read a code P0087 which was a low pressure fuel pump issue. I wasn't going to start randomly swapping out parts and knowing that the sam unit is a common problem, that was the first thing for me to check out. I also found paperwork in the car after cleaning it out and it turns out the previous owner was having stalling issues as well and had dumped nearly 1000 canadian loonies to multiple automotive shops to try to find the problem. Here is the SAM unit pulled out and on the table for disassembly. Opening it up like a book to get into the pins on the back of the boards. My first stop on the back of the board was the 11-3 plug. As show in the photo below, you will notice the straight line of 12 solder points. This is the back side of the 11-3 plug. Do you notice anything wrong? The right 3 pins appear to have actually broken and separated from the board. I took to re-soldering these 3 pins and other ones of concern around them. After re-assembly, the car is running great with no issues and any speeds! To re-cap my issues and to hopefully help other folks: My car would drive fine for what appeared to be any distances at or under 50km/h. I had one stall out of 50 under that speed. When I would drive above 50km/h it would seem I could drive for random distances, some days all the way home but typically it would stall on me. I was starting to think cold days were better and I could drive further or all the way home without issue. Hot days seemed to trigger the stalling issue more frequently. After stalling if possible i tried to drive slow and that usually helped. I started to tap the sam unit when driving was good and only once did I tap the SAM unit and the car stalled at the same time. I wasnt able to replicate it again but I think the first time I tapped the unit and it stalled i must have hit the 11-3 plug. Now looking at what the issue was and the symptoms I was having I am assuming that driving faster created more heat in the SAM unit and eventually lead to the pins disengaging from the board and the car would stall. I dont think vibrations caused the stall but it is possible. Either way, if you are having stalling issues have a look at your SAM. I am happy to dig into a SAM unit for you as well Chris,
  2. I need help with a warranty claim. I bought my 2018 Smart Fortwo in 2019, VIN# WMEFJ9BA0JK30592. Probably one of the last sold in Canada. Victoria may be the best place in North America for electric cars. An island with a mild climate. Problem is, the horn button doesn’t work if you press it on the bottom right side, around the 4:30 point. Press anywhere on the other three quadrants and it works fine. Three Point Motors is telling me this is a design feature. They say they found three other cars that work the same way and the horn button only has icons at top right and top left so all the horn buttons are supposed to work like this. They didn’t bother explaining why my horn works when you press the bottom left of the button. Seems to me I should deal first with their claim that all the horns work this way. If you have a Smart Fortwo with a horn that works where ever you press the button could you let me know? Also please let me know if your horn button has a dead section like mine. I would use my neighbor’s 2019 Smart Fortwo as an example but it has been in the shop for 7 months. When they realized they should have a back up display in their rear view mirror they took it in. Three Point Motors found the wiring harness was missing. They are waiting for a replacement with no end in sight. Thank you for any info, advice or stories. Cheers. Mike
  3. So the work on my wee beastie has begun. Got all the pieces I could find put back onto the car. Replaced the battery. Cleaned corrosion from the cables using some liquid spray thingy from the oil cupboard. Probably Penetrating Oil LOL. Didn't have any carb cleaner or battery cleaner handy. The corrosion colony on the positive terminal was advanced enough to apply for citizenship. Marveled at the female 110 outlet stowed in the battery compartment. Female. As in, the thing you plug your equipment into. Does this thing have an inverter on it? Looks like a factory thing (??). Unlike the other wiring added on the other side of the battery compartment which looks like a reasonably-well done custom mod. Replaced the key battery. Figured out how to mate the key back to the car (sort of; it seems I have to repeat the procedure every day. That will get old quickly, but sort of acts like an additional anti-theft device, so maybe I can convince myself it's a good thing). Started it. Yes. She started. Sitting 4 years with diesel at 3/4 tank, and she started. She didn't run long. She bubbled and glurbled and stumbled and sputtered and stuttered. A few seconds in a belt started to whine; a short while later she surrendered and stalled. No start since; occasional single-pop ignition, not enough to get her going. Recharged battery. :: hangs head in shame :: Two wrenches on console; presumably oil change indicator or the rough equivalent of a check engine light? OBD-II indicates two codes; I can't figure out how to get my reader to show me the second one. Seriously. Programming and using computers since age 14 and I can't find a "Next" button or an arrow key that behaves in an expected manner. Darn kids and their toys. Get off my lawn. Throws P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Presssure Too Low). Presume bad fuel and/or clogged fuel filter. Certainly these need doing anyway, along with the oil and its filter. Speaking of filters, the air filter is half the size of the engine. My friends will no doubt soon tire of my SmartCar stories. I don't care. Found the radio code hand-written in the warranty booklet; unlocked the radio and programmed in four stations to the four buttons.However, Button 1 is also "Scan", so when I press 1 now I get the station I asked for... briefly. LOL Haven't figured out how to get past that. An owner's manual might be helpful. Went looking for owner's manual online. Lots of links teasing me, dangling a purported owner's manual on the other end; but, alas, even including the links from this site; only one downloads a PDF, and my PDF reader can't open it (???). So I'm flying blinder than usual until I can resolve that issue. Yes, computer geek can't find or open a PDF file. Maybe I should retire and garden for a living or something. There's a very nicely done on/off switch which upon closer inspection appears to be mod work; bottom of console/dash, driver's side, near center. It also, upon closer inspection, appears to be popped out of its socket. But it looked nice until that happened. Right side has what appears to be a control knob for... an extra air conditioner? It has a snowflake on it. Can't wait to find out what that's all about, if it works, etc. Filled all the tires back to one pound shy of the indicated pressure (51 PSI; pushed hand compressor to 51 with a one-pound drop after compressor stops). If nothing else I figure it will make it easier to push her around while I wait patiently; oh, so patiently, to get her started. After exuberantly announcing to my wife that she started, ran briefly, and then died, with graphic descriptions and lots of hand motioning, her response was: "You smell like diesel." I have a great support structure over here. Me, Myself, and I (thank goodness for the fourth member of the cheering squad: Ego). Next steps: Purchase: 1/2" drive Torque Wrench 1/2" drive 27mm socket 1-gallon Rotella T6 Oil (yes, it's 5W40 but I keep seeing proclamations that it runs quieter, which I translate as gentler on the motor #thatsmystoryandimstickingtoit ) 1 Pela PL-6000 Suction Pump (for oil extraction) 3 x 5-gallon Yellow Diesel Fuel Containers (Tank is 3/4 full, holds 33L (8.7 gallons?) so probably has 5.85 gallons in it. 2 Cans for extracted fuel; 1 Can for new fuel. Doubles as serious emergency extra supply for long trips into the Grand Canyon or something. Or if I apply the Forsea refit kit, maybe I could use it to get to Hawaii or something. 32-oz bottle of Diesel Kleen Plus Cetane Boost YesCom 12V 5L Oil Fluid Liquid Diesel Fuel Extractor (don't want to mix diesel and oil in the same pump) Mercedes-Benz Fuel Filter E320 (is that right?) Oil filter for 2005 Smart cdi/Canadian from local Mercedes-Benz dealer (may as well get to know them) 2 x Hockey Puck (to put between the jack/jackstand and the lift point) 2 x JackStands Jack (model to be determined). Can jury rig something out of paper clips and rubber bands until then. Trying to use brick-n-mortar stores, but some of this stuff is coming from Amazon. On the week several hurricanes come a-calling. Yes, I have a wonderful sense of timing. I'm sure delivery times will be juuuuuuust fiiiiiiiine. Actions: Remove Oil (don't forget to jack Front Left so we get it all). Replace Oil Filter (don't forget to jack Back Left and Right so we can swing an axe under there) Add new Oil, 2.7L exactly, not 3.0L. Remove "fuel". Change Fuel Filter. Add Kleen Boost. Add new Fuel. Pray. Start Car. (I'm an optimist.) Please oh please oh please don't make me crack the heads open on this wee beastie. Please please please please please.... Also, I need to find out if there's a way to prime the injectors. Haven't found anything on this yet. Will post separate question for that. - Steve M.
  4. I just got back from having our vehicle repaired and serviced by "Uncle Glenn" in London and it was well worth the drive from Toronto! We have a diesel 2006 Smart Cabriolet with 65,000 km. Our local dealer strongly discouraged us from repairing the vehicle and listed over $5,000 worth of repairs that needed to be made. The dealer was pushing us to buy a new vehicle (no surprise). The reality is that the math simply doesn't work having a dealer service an old Smartie...better to do it yourself or find someone as trustworthy as Glenn. Here's the list of what we repaired both front springs...what a smooth ride home replaced front brake pads 2 front bearings broken bolts X2 service actuator and computer actuator sleeve oil change light bulbs new Bosch battery with 3 yr warranty replaced rear crash bar* antifreeze replacement oil spray undercoat *Several years ago our Smartie was rear-ended by a car going about 25 to 30 kpm. At the time I was proud of the fact that the only damage to the Smartie was two slight indents where the screws from the other guy's licence plate impacted. He knocked his bumper loose. The insurance-approved repair shop missed the fact the crash bar had some barely visible but potentially serious damage. It was one of Glenn's first observations. Thanks Glenn! Callum and Sarah