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Found 3 results

  1. So when I purchased my used 06 Smart Fortwo it drove great around town. The first trip out of town I took i started to have what seemed like a random stalling issue. It always allowed me to restart after about 30 seconds when you could hear the Sam unit reset. I drove the car like this for a couple months trying to figure out exactly how I could replicate the stalling issue. While I wasnt able to figure out exactly what was causing it, I was able to read a code P0087 which was a low pressure fuel pump issue. I wasn't going to start randomly swapping out parts and knowing that the sam unit is a common problem, that was the first thing for me to check out. I also found paperwork in the car after cleaning it out and it turns out the previous owner was having stalling issues as well and had dumped nearly 1000 canadian loonies to multiple automotive shops to try to find the problem. Here is the SAM unit pulled out and on the table for disassembly. Opening it up like a book to get into the pins on the back of the boards. My first stop on the back of the board was the 11-3 plug. As show in the photo below, you will notice the straight line of 12 solder points. This is the back side of the 11-3 plug. Do you notice anything wrong? The right 3 pins appear to have actually broken and separated from the board. I took to re-soldering these 3 pins and other ones of concern around them. After re-assembly, the car is running great with no issues and any speeds! To re-cap my issues and to hopefully help other folks: My car would drive fine for what appeared to be any distances at or under 50km/h. I had one stall out of 50 under that speed. When I would drive above 50km/h it would seem I could drive for random distances, some days all the way home but typically it would stall on me. I was starting to think cold days were better and I could drive further or all the way home without issue. Hot days seemed to trigger the stalling issue more frequently. After stalling if possible i tried to drive slow and that usually helped. I started to tap the sam unit when driving was good and only once did I tap the SAM unit and the car stalled at the same time. I wasnt able to replicate it again but I think the first time I tapped the unit and it stalled i must have hit the 11-3 plug. Now looking at what the issue was and the symptoms I was having I am assuming that driving faster created more heat in the SAM unit and eventually lead to the pins disengaging from the board and the car would stall. I dont think vibrations caused the stall but it is possible. Either way, if you are having stalling issues have a look at your SAM. I am happy to dig into a SAM unit for you as well Chris,
  2. I was driving from Williams Lake to Vancouver. I stopped to fill up with fuel in Hope, and then my car wouldn't start. I had it towed to Vancouver Mercedes to have it looked at. I had a standard maintenance to do anyway. They said that the fuel pump failed electrically, and burned up the wiring bundle. To repair this, they need to replace the fuel pump, the wiring bundle. Since the wiring bundle is attached to the SAM, it has to be replaced also, which in turn, means programming new keys. The ESTIMATE for all this is $3400. Does this sound correct to you? can you give me any thoughts? I have standard maintenance, and a couple of other repairs, so the total is looking like $5000, and that means the car might have to go to the auto recyclers. I'd really like any advice from the Smart car club folks. Thanks, Tony
  3. So I just did the external relay modification to solve the headlight and fuel pump issues. Miraculously she (gf owner) has working low beam headlights, and the car starts. It runs better than I've seen it since she bought the car. Unfortunately now the car won't turn off. I can turn the ignition switch to the off position and remove the key (in neutral) and the car will keep running as long as the brake pedal is depressed. Obviously you just need to take your foot off of the brake once you've parked and the car can be driven normally. That's not good enough, and I would like to find the solution before I make any other improvements. My thought is that the fuel pump wire that I ran out of the SAM has been pierced by one of the solder joints pertaining to the brake light circuit. In the meantime the brake lights function normally. I would think that if they were in contact, the brake lights would be on as long as the fuel pump is running, or some other sort of malfunction. I have read that the brake light switches on the 450s are problematic, but I don't know how the two issues could be related and why it would manifest after the other issues were resolved. A side note is that I can now communicate with the car via the OBD2 port. It had previously lost that functionality and I thought that the OBD2 reader had gone bad until I tested it in a different vehicle and it worked fine. I know I SHOULD start by taking the SAM apart again and checking for a pierced wire, but if I do that I will be inclined to remove the wiring that I used and resolder a smaller gauge wire. Frankly I don't want to do that if the problem lies elsewhere. I am currently using 14 gauge flat speaker wire. It is truly flat, they braided it similar to a ground strap. It is really cool old school hifi car audio cable. 14 gauge is definitely overkill and I could probably get away with 18 gauge and a hot glue gun to keep the wire in place as I route it around solder joints (probably what most sane people do).