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Found 5 results

  1. Hello all! My Smart sat idle in my garage for about a year and a half, until i could find a proper electrician to fix my broken SAM unit. After, finally, i 've brought it back home i noticed that the gearbox often fails to automatically up-shift and have to "help" it manually. When it fails to shift, i notice that the engine is revving but seems it needs a few more RPMs to shift. Also when trying to rev it out of gear, it only reaches ~3200 RPM, and the accelerator pedal is "dead" in the upper half. It is true that i don't quite remember how much RPMs i was getting about a year ago before the electrical problems. So, my questions are as follows: 1. How much RPMs do your CDIs get when revved while stationary (and in neutral, of course) ? 2. Is it more likely to be a gearbox issue or engine one? I must mention that the engine seems to run as smooth as ever with no black smoke or rough starts. Also the gearbox works perfectly in manual mode. LE: Sorry if/for posting in the wrong subcategory. Only now i've observed it's an area for mdifications
  2. Hi! it's my turn to put some chinese ( ) core into it... I replaced the intercooler, but the turbo still whines weirdly, the car is not quite as fast ( I have eddy's flashing mine) and the fuel consumption is around 5l/100km... let's see if this is the only problem left to fix after my disastrous cross-Canada trip...
  3. Hi, I'm looking to turbo my 2008 smart car. I was wondering if anyone has a turbo kit for sale? Thanks
  4. hi everyone, I have a 05 450 Smart cabrio gasser... I didnt see where I could post for gasser so i went with diesel hoping someone could help.. I realize not many 450 gas cars made it to the states let alone Canada, so Im a bit out..orphaned.. ok, my cabrio 450 has 50k miles on it, self serviced and maintained, while driving home last fall about a mile from home it suddenly lost power and started blowing blue smoke out the tail pipe and oil all over the rear of the car, i limped it carefully the last 1/2 mile and shutting down I had oil coming out of the exhaust, and all over the rear. The dipstick reads low now, and after disassembly of the intake from the turbo up to intercooler i found oil right to the manifold, intercooler, and into the exhaust. I did remove the turbo, and there seem to be no play in the turbine or shaft , i know I will have to replace the plugs (all 6) and clean everything up. thats a given... I have read where turbo failure is common with 450 diesels, but what about the gas models? it did have the whine just before it failed which makes me think turbo seals, but how do I check it? I am a highly qualified mechanic, but this has me stumped. I have new plugs on order and will finish disassembly of the turbo tomorrow. it is a garrett gt12, anything else i should check? I dont want to get this together and find something else filed.. email me directly if you have any ideas, insights or questions. steve george
  5. I recently did the turbo and intercooler on my '06 fortwo. Dealer wanted $5,000 for both including parts. This is ridiculous.Turbo, exhaust manifold mounted and intercooler all ready to install was $1,500. I needed to buy some parts additionally.You will need an exhaust manifold gasket, the high and low pressure oil line gaskets from turbo and return exhaust line gaskets from turbo to EGR valve. They were another $65.You will also need the blue thread-lock and anti-seize compound. I coated almost every bolt with anti seize, except for a few that were obvious (you could see the thread-lock on bolts).No easy job and not for the weekend warrior. But if you have some know how and some patients, it can be done quite easily and at a serious savings to a dealership doing it.You must remove the rear skirting from car (three center bolts and two side bolts located at the end of the door at bottom). There are 3 sliding clips for each side of the skirt. They pull backwards (rear of car) to come off and take a bit of tugging. DO NOT pull straight off. They'll snap and it seems smart Canada cannot get them here. I did find them online from a UK supplier tho, if needed. Once off you need to remove the aluminum bumper. Looks like a steel beam. Its' not. That's our bumper. Once all that is off you can easily see the exhaust manifold and the turbo. Remove the oil lines. There are 2 of them. One high pressure one low. The high pressure line is a banjo bolt with a copper washer. You should be able to re-use the copper washer if this is first time removal. Remove the exhaust return manifold from turbo and from EGR valve. This is a shiny small steel tube that returns from the turbo to the EGR. Remove from EGR side and then take it off completely once the manifold and turbo are out. Remove the air intake pipe and the PCV valve from pipe. Remove the manifold bolts (take it easy as they are very rare in Canada according to my German auto parts supplier). Once they're off, the turbo and manifold will fall out easily. When you get the new assembly, you may need to remove some other minor components and attach to new assembly.Intercooler requires the EGR valve to be removed. There are 3 bolts holding it on and these are the ones with thread lock. Remove all the duct work. Unclip the wires. Once its' out, look inside. If both sides are not nice and open, you may want to replace the EGR valve. $400 for a new one. Or do what I did. Soak it overnight in varsol to loosen the varnish and carbon. Gently use a wire brush (baby bottle style) to clean out the inside of valve. It's not a cure but it did make a huge difference for me. It should last another 200000K like the first time. Once the EGR is out you can disconnect the fan by removing the wire clip and then it's 3 clips holding the fan in. Only the top clip needs to unclipped. Once out the bottom pulls out. Now the fun. You must stick a screwdriver into the 4 slots on the side of intercooler (at top and bottom) and gently pry the metal clips on the intercooler open to remove it. It's a tight fit to get it out even with everything out of the way. Top out first, then lift bottom out. When you re-install the intercooler you must line up the bottom clips first while holding the cooler above the clips to ensure it's lined up. If you think it's lined up, place bottom in first then top and snap it in.To re-install the turbo & manifold just reverse all the above process ending the skirt.It saved me a ton of money and it took about 10 man hours to do all it from beginning to end, and as I've stated before I'm no mechanic. I'm sure knowing what I know now, could be done in about 6 or 7 hours. And I always say 2 people are better than one. Especially once frustration sets in.I hope this helps someone. If anyone has any better ways or ideas, or would like to know more about this please let me know.