· #626 Posted July 5, 2010 · Report post Please forgive me for not reading all the past 30 pages, but is there someone selling the egr bypass circuit / willing to build one for me?Anyone? Please? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #627 Posted July 5, 2010 · Report post Anyone? Please?I have a spare cable and most of the parts. What I don't have a lot of is spare time. If there were someone available to build it, I would be happy to donate the cable and parts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #628 Posted July 5, 2010 (edited) · Report post I have a spare cable and most of the parts. What I don't have a lot of is spare time. If there were someone available to build it, I would be happy to donate the cable and parts.I have just received a PM from borderlord who has volunteered to build the circuit and contact bheinola.Many thanks!I will send the cable and parts to borderlord in the next couple of days. Edited July 5, 2010 by smartdriver Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #629 Posted July 21, 2010 · Report post I just had my second EGR clog up, this spring the CEL was on and I just kept resetting. Today I took it out and cleaned it up and put it back in. This EGR was a replacement and possibly the upgraded or new improved from the dealer, stamped 08 on the housing. I was surprised that it wasn't seized solid like the original unit was last year. I was still tempted to block it off but didn't, maybe before the fall. One thing that is upsetting me is the yellow triangle and ABS light both coming on whenever I hit 70 kph. This has been going on since I changed my route to all highway this spring to go to work. Under 70kmph, no problems and can drive all day but as soon as I reach the magic number and the speed is close to consistant, the both lights light up. The lights come on after restart but go off when the car starts moving only to come back on at 70. This is driving me nuts because I took both front rotors off to clean the rust chips out and blew the crap off the sensors with air and it still is happening. I had a look at the rears also which are exposed and didn't see anything abnormal. Any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #630 Posted July 21, 2010 · Report post Cracked reluctor rings on the rear axles. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #632 Posted July 21, 2010 · Report post Damn, you guys know your stuff! Why couldn't you just be wrong for once and let it be something simple! I had a look at the driver's side, even tried with a mirror and couldn't see any crack visible for about a half hour. Put the wheel back on, moved over to the passenger side, took the wheel off and , .. VOILA! Big friggin' crack staring right back at me! What went wrong there, rust swelled up under the ring and the pressure popped it?Just how much trouble is it to change and could just the ring be swapped out? probably a better idea to try an find a whole axle from the scrap?Anyone got a spare kicking around?Thanks for your help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #633 Posted July 21, 2010 (edited) · Report post Fast Eddy (Flying Tiger) in Richmond BC sells new reluctor rings. If you go to smart, they will gladly sell you a new driveshaft! It is a bit of a job but a reasonable backyard mechanic should be able to do the job. Treating the shaft against rust is the key, when replacing the rings. Edited July 21, 2010 by Mike T Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #634 Posted July 21, 2010 · Report post The reluctor rings can be bought and changed out, Flying tiger and sources from the UK have them. Clean the groove very well, heat the rings and install, then paint to protect from rust. This thread has details of a reluctor change by a member in SW Ontario. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #635 Posted July 21, 2010 · Report post Thanks again! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #636 Posted July 22, 2010 · Report post It is actually about the same as when they used to use retainers on wheel bearings or press fit wheel bearings - anyone that can work on a Ford/Dodge rear end can figure out how to get the rings on and off. You can also press them if you have a press but not nearly as exciting as juggling a hunk of hot metal (LOL).Cheers,Cameron Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #637 Posted August 3, 2010 · Report post just want to confirm that the square box in the schematic diagram with a 22 in it a is a 22uF cap Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #638 Posted August 14, 2010 · Report post anyone?? I have a PM a couple people, and no one has responded Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #639 Posted August 14, 2010 · Report post anyone?? I have a PM a couple people, and no one has respondedPlease point to the diagram to which you are referring and I'll see if I can help. Bil Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #640 Posted August 16, 2010 · Report post page #19, post 366thanksI'm not building this, a friend is. I sent him the link to the info, and he asked me to post this. I honestly have no idea what any of this means! lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #641 Posted August 16, 2010 (edited) · Report post So.......Would people be willing to pay $100 for one of these if it came fully epoxy sealed???!??!?!? How much extra for a proper built pipe with rolled ends to replace the EGR valve itself?I know my way around a soldering iron fairly well, and my brother in law is an electrical engineer. Edited August 16, 2010 by MightyMouseTech Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #642 Posted August 16, 2010 · Report post I'm sure people would would be interested. . personally I bought the $23 cable, and have everything else ready, just need someone to clearify the resistor. . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #643 Posted August 16, 2010 · Report post I'm sure people would would be interested. . personally I bought the $23 cable, and have everything else ready, just need someone to clearify the resistor. . haven't built this cirsuit myself, but looking at the diagram it is 99% certain it is a 22uF capacitor. Hopefully someone who has built the circuit can confirm (it is more of a block diagram than a schematic unfortunately)Scott Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #644 Posted August 16, 2010 · Report post So.......Would people be willing to pay $100 for one of these if it came fully epoxy sealed???!??!?!? How much extra for a proper built pipe with rolled ends to replace the EGR valve itself?I know my way around a soldering iron fairly well, and my brother in law is an electrical engineer.I have this circuit installed and I can recommend it highly. A straight-through replacement pipe - complete EGR delete - would be awesome! Not sure what "rolled ends" means though?Bil Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #645 Posted August 16, 2010 · Report post Not sure what "rolled ends" means though?Rolled ends actually refers to bead rolled ends. It looks like a bump on the outside of the pipe so that when clamped down with a suitable clamp the hose will not slip off. Like seen at the ends of these pipes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #646 Posted August 16, 2010 · Report post Rolled ends actually refers to bead rolled ends. It looks like a bump on the outside of the pipe so that when clamped down with a suitable clamp the hose will not slip off. Like seen at the ends of these pipes.Gotcha. But doesn't the lower side of the EGR connect to the rubber pipe with a spring quick-coupler? So we would trim that off and use a T-clamp or something? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #647 Posted September 2, 2010 · Report post You could also put a 90 degrees silicone hose on the intercooler out pipe..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #648 Posted September 17, 2010 · Report post I have this circuit installed and I can recommend it highly. A straight-through replacement pipe - complete EGR delete - would be awesome! Not sure what "rolled ends" means though? Bil Bill,Believe it or not, but I just read this complete thread! The 8 year warranty is the best option, but perhaps I wouldn't know if it was the egr causing the CE light - I would have to prove that to the dealer and they would probably charge me to diagnose the problem anyway. Having the electronic circuit would be a help. Seems that having just the MB cable is not much good, so are there any other options left, other than building the circuit myself? We no longer have an electronic parts supply here, other than The Source. Bill - did you not install the blocking plate? That seems the sure-fire way of preventing blockage. And so far as the environment is concerned, maybe i would just drive the Smart more often instead of one of my other gas guzzlers On my 300D, I used to have the EGR blocked, but then the turbo was replaced with an earlier version that does not have an egr. Some of these cars used a machined plate/gasket like the one you wanted to use. Others just put a ballbearing in the tube. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #649 Posted September 17, 2010 · Report post Bill - did you not install the blocking plate? That seems the sure-fire way of preventing blockage.In the end, I didn't use a blocking plate - just the delete circuit. Eventually, I will remove the EGR entirely and that requires the circuit to fool the ECU anyway.B Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #650 Posted September 17, 2010 · Report post Might be worth giving the EGR the benefit of the doubt until it acts up. Mine has been fine for 117,000 km. They replaced it once at 50K km but that was a shot in the dark on another problem, the EGR they removed was pretty much OK. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites