795 posts in this topic

So is the problem the oil from the CCV, the particulate from the exhaust or, perhaps the combination of the two. After market Air/oil separators (sometimes called oil mist separators) are readily available. Some are pricey ($200) and there are a lot of home made ones. I wonder if we insert one between the manifold and the TIK whether that might help the clogging of the EGR? Certainly the crap I took out of the EGR is tarred soot. Maybe without the oil the soot wouldn't stick?

Read through this 12 page discussion CLICKY I believe our friend tolsen has hit on a working solution with his hand-made vortex separator (deeper in that thread), which is very much like an off-the-shelf BMW separator that I want to try.

Bil :sun:

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I have not been on this forum for a few years, but I still have the smart, and it has over 300,000km, and is still on its factory installed EGR valve. I cleaned it at about 150,000 when I replaced the intercooler. I have had many codes, that I cleared, and I replaced the wires and connector to the sensor in the inlet of the intercooler, and I have always been able to drive "normally" which for me is at 120km/h for about 6okms ea. am and pm.Last Wednesday, at 301,000 kms, it went into limp mode. That happened once before but it fixed itself overnight! Who knows why.I hooked into the OBD and I had 2 errors, the EGR, and the TPS.Yesterday, Saturday, I removed the EGR, blanked off the stub/heater pipe, built a new inlet tube, as the old one was completely f%%#@ where it attached to the turbo. I had long ago done the breather tube mod to atmosphere. I also noticed that the exhaust manifold is broken in half at the #2 port. The crack is a hairline with obvious exhaust soot emanating from it. Now I know why there is so much crap on the back of the car. This is the second turbo(first replacement). I still have the original, and it is not cracked.The car is still in limp mode, and I still have the "EGR Sensor A" malfunction code. I removed the EGR, it was still in operational condition, eg. it was 50% clogged but still sliding, the solenoid appears to be OK also, and I have it plugged in still, just not attached to the EGR Body.Anyone have any clues?, how do I get it outta limp mode?I removed the Throttle pedal, cleaned/inspected the connector and refitted it, cleared the code and it hasn't come back.The Fuel filter/water separator was done at about 130,000kms and has not been looked at since! but I know what that feels like when it needs doing.

post-522-1355706712_thumb.jpg

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Thanks MikeT maybe I can get another 200K if I can get it outta limp

Edited by Leipa

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post-522-1355802434_thumb.jpgI do have the code, used it when I replaced the Alternator(now that is a PITA)!!Countdown to 300000.Highway 99 -8th Av post-522-1355802461_thumb.jpg

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[i did all of that, but removing the oil pan makes it so much easier...used the Evilution text and pics to guide me...how many have actually done it in their driveway?

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Hi, after getting p0405 on my fortwo 2006, i made the little circuit and tryed it, everything is fine until i reach around 50mph ( 4 gear around 3000k ) same trouble seem to stay stuck after that anyone know why ??

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Perhaps your EGR valve is clogged with sludge, how many kilometres on your car?

Here is I link on how to clean it in the car, however it is much better to remove it entirely for cleaning.

There isn't a current wiki on how to remove and clean it but if you use the search function you can gather enough information as to how to do it.

Canman

http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?autocom=...ticle&id=13

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Thanx for trying solve my trouble, the pipe on the bottom of the egr disconnect while running lol !

here is a picture of my pcb !

Posted Image

and the final result

Posted Image

Edited by rd2rock

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Thanx for trying solve my trouble, the pipe on the bottom of the egr disconnect while running lol !

here is a picture of my pcb !

Posted Image

and the final result

Posted Image

Does it work?

I am having one made, should have it in the next day or so.

I also have obtained another EGR valve, so I will fit it first and see if my "limp" goes away....need some Cialis for a smart!!!!!

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Does it work?I am having one made, should have it in the next day or so.I also have obtained another EGR valve, so I will fit it first and see if my "limp" goes away....need some Cialis for a smart!!!!!

Sorry for the delay ! yes it work perfectly ! if it doesnt work well contact me !if anyone need one pm me ! :)

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Oooh... breathtaking power... gimme some of that! I've placed my order :thumbup:

This is a thrill beyond belief! Yes, that's right... I don't have a life at all outside the world of smart.

I expect that a manufacturer's post-production oem "upgrade" to the EGR system (with a stock number and all!) is an approved exception to the thou-shalt-not-tamper rule. And why would the supplier question you? Do the parts people even really know what it is/does?

Anyway... thanks for taking point on this one again, Iain. :thanx: Glad we've got someone who understand the technology! Pot's and Ohms and PWM... all beyond my ken. We spent a long time searching for an answer. Hoorah for Google!

Happy, happy; joy, joy! :sun:

Btw, did the power change happen immediately, or did it take a little while for the ECU to adapt?

Hello Bil.

I hope you get this post as the original topic is very old & there is a lot of data to sift through.

Did you get this adapter & install it? If so, how did it work out?

If you had positive results, is it still available?

Thanks

Paul

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Hi Paul,Yes, I've had the emulator on board for five years now and it has worked flawlessly. I've even removed the EGR completely from the engine! I believe there is someone else in here making them now. Use the search function and look for "emulator".Regards,Bil

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Hi GlennI agree with Bil from Kelowna.I have 15-20 customers with cdi's and we see this issue a fair bit after 80,000 km's.Here is a tip to reduce cost by lots-o-bucks.There are two components to the egr. One is the electrical device and the other the egr itself.I have two of the egr's available for my customers that are NOT new.The egr can be removed and soaked in a substance to clean them. I use GM Cleans (works great).Do not brush or scrape as this can damage the unit.Let it soak for a few days totally submerged, remove and wash with warm water.Re-install with a new gasket and your on the road again.I hope this saves everyone a bunch.Don McLachlan

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Hey Don, I used to work in Trail, but a long time ago. Good to see there are a few smarts up there.

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Hey just replaced my turbo, and oil feed line.Car was topping out at 3000 rpm's 1-5, 2500 rpm in 6MB said sticking waste gate.Was going to have turbo rebuilt but discovered cracked exhaust manifold during extractionOrdered a new KP31 unitDrove it home then went to go for a tour, engine light back on and rev limit of 3k again.Would changing the mixing bowl or erg be a possible solution240k on the car.Let me know if you have any advice, repairs were about 2k with no results.Need to get the power back in the little puddle jumper

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Can you check the code that is causing the MIL? That should be the first step to diagnose the problem.

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Limp mode is commonly cause by over boost which is commonly a sticking waste gate or failing turbo. A plugged EGR could also be it but I'm guessing its the waste gate.What I'd recommend: service waste gate (don't touch the bolts), and clean the EGR. Its in the wiki section :)

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When I did my intercooler I got caught with a limp mode caused by the Intake air sensor electrical connection not being seated right. You really need to get the codes read to know where to look. That said - if you got home ok then went for a drive before the light came on dmoonen is right - lubricate the waste gate. If it is the waste gate the code should clear after about 3 key on key off cycles if you baby the car and don't trip the waste gate again.

Edited by swl

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built the egr emulator working great . $6.30 for the components and the cost of the mb connector cheap fix thanks guys

Edited by wasagaguy

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Yesterday after crawling along for 30 minutes in stop and go traffic, I got a limp home mode for the first time since my wastegate failed four years ago. I cycled the ignition at a stoplight, and it cleared up. I expected it might be a clogged fuel filter as I was about to change it this weekend.This afternoon after work I got a CEL: P0405 - EGR Positon Sensor Signal Low Voltage. Crap. Is my emulator failing? I haven't had that code since my first EGR valve clogged five years ago, and I have been running an emulator for three years. Any ideas what to check for?

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Any ideas what to check for?

If in fact it is your emulator that has failed, there is only one component which might be an issue in harsh environmental conditions (cold).It is the 22uF capacitor. Normal low cost aluminum capacitors have a finite lifespan.Best to use a tantalum or special low temperature electrolytic capacitor. Edited by smartdriver

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I had the code come up on mine once with the emulator, found out one of the wires came loose, but yes it could also be a a capacitor failure, you are going to have to check the board I am afraid and see what has happened, could also be corrosion if any moisture managed to get to it.

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