792 posts in this topic

Well, mine has now clogged for the second time. Service people reminded me that it was done 50,000 km ago. I can think of better ways to spend $500. I'd be interested to know if a fuel additive or specific fuel would help. 

Edited by ishkabibble

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Avoid short trips, drive very hard occasionally.  In 360,000 km of smart diesel motoring I have yet to experience any EGR issues.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Trump: Climate change is just a hoax so feel free to fit EGR blanking plate 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I probably don't drive mine far enough or often enough.  However, I just did a trip to the Eastern Townships and then to Toronto a couple of days later. Does anyone know if a fuel additive or certain type of fuel would help?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm trying to remove the EGR which has 3 T25 bolts. The two on the top are easy enough.  But the one hidden underneath seems unreachable.  What it the secret to removing it??  Can't get my Torx drivers in there.  Are there special Torx drivers for cramped blind spaces?

 

HELP!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/12/2009 at 0:36 AM, Guest icognitoman said:

In appreciation to all of you who posted some really good information to get me started on fixing the EGR problem, I prepared complete step-by-step instructions with decent size pics on how to remove and clean the EGR valve. It can be found at the following link:

SMART CDI EGR Valve removal & cleaning

MB wanted almost $900+taxes to install a new EGR valve and a glow plug, I got it done for less than $100 and that included buying tools and parts.

Thank you all for your great posts, spread the word.

 That link seems to be dead. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just remove egr cartridge in situ. Much easier that way. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/7/2018 at 4:33 AM, tolsen said:

Just remove egr cartridge in situ. Much easier that way. 

I'll try that.  Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FINALLY....I'm finally finished reading this fantastic thread, thanks to all who contributed to it...and yep. TRUMP is right....LMFAO....!  OK enough of the silliness...lol

I have two smarts, one i plan on using during the cold crappy winter conditions which I picked up cheap. I have been soaking and ultra sonic cleaning the EGR for the past two days....using a comercial cleaning solution at 50 degrees....it requires heat to do it correctly, cold cleaning doesn't work unless you use carb cleaner and plenty of picking and use of a tooth brush, preferably the wife's! lol.  So everything is like new basically now. The cooler had slight wear marks, maybe 1/3 the way through 3 tubes, it's goo'd back up with safety alluminium strip to stop future issues, plus today the scoop will be trimmed and possibly lengthened or modified someway to get better flow without becoming a shovel to clean the gravel off the roads. It will also get some sort of screen to help stop any small stones etc being shot into the cooler to bend over or penetrate  the tubes and or fins. I also have hours of straightening of fins to allow the best use of the cooler etc.  I will make a block off plate and install it and possibly even make a new egr replacement pipe to get rid of this mess. Then keep this now cleaned unit ready for my daily driver when that day comes. I also have enough parts to build up 3 circuits to trick the ECU as described. I also am wondering about the first initial air intake pipe and it's shape etc for best flow design not that it's that bad, just thinking seeing as it's all out now and cleaned etc etc. Perhaps a scoop on the side of the car, just to help..? Why not do it all at once. This car has the 2 spanners showing and I haven't read any codes as I knew it would have to be dealt with and it's not on the road to test legally. I did drive it home at full highway speeds and it did top out at 130kmpph....it felt like it could do more but now i realize it's governed. It also has both reluctor rings snapped and their replacements are on route to me. They are an easy fix compared to geting that EGR off the engine. As for the one question about how to get that one bolt out, I bent up a wrench to simply get it loosened as I also couldn't get a socket to it. I personally hate these torx head bolts, they tend to strip or deform easily, they should be changed to allen head bolts similar to bike engine bolts. Something that will be done if it's possible. 

I'm also firmly in the camp of, I do not care about the polutants from this 800cc engine when you see a 7 litre V8 belching out black smoke or commercial trucks pumping it out at allarming rates.....sorry but until the so called third world countries all follow suit, and that means all those 2 stroke engines are removed from existance, etc etc,,,,I think we as a country can allow a few tiny smart diesels to operate without an EGR valve system....seriously...we contribute how much to the world's green house gas problem and how many trees do we have cleaning our air, at what rate scale compared to other countries...sorry....it just seems so unballanced and what you may call unfair to target the ones who can afford to constantly get hosed for repairs etc etc etc.....OK RANT over....!

 

 

Sorry...lets continue this fantastic thread.....30 pages of useful info, some far above my head...but great reading.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK...I'm back...everything cleaner, tool wise that is and got a good clean look at the situation underneath.  Interesting.
So the EGR is leaving as far as i am concerned on this car. I'll make a tube up to mimmick the the EGR itself.  Then the hot gas pipe feeding the EGR ...why can't it be completely removed and caped off? Also the coolant hoses supplying it can be the same....simply joined and complete their circuit. Then the elcetronic board made and installed somewhere out of harms way.  Has anyone thought about running it into the actual body of the vehicle to keep it clean, safe and away from the elements?  Would the length of wire change the resistance or wattages being read by the ECU..?  The wiring could always be increased in dia. to help reduce any losses, no?  So then it's the cooler's turn, my scoop is damaged and flopping around so in  need of repairs. Can the whole scoop be removed as a whole or lets say installed as a whole? Then comes the lower scoop design.....I can see that making one that acually lives below the rear engine cradle wouldn't last very long at all unless you stayed on a track type conditions. So, what about directing the flow above the front of that engine craddle by adding a semi solid scoop to the leading edge of that front tube? And picking up the air at that location compared to after the tube. So to install some sort of harder plastic if not steel edge, even a solid thicker scoop....yes if it was hit by anything solid it would be bad, just spit balling here...lol. Throwing it to the wall so to speak.? Seeing if it sticks...lol.  I see also that adding a screen to the cooler would only happen at the face of the cooler, or 1/2 from the tubes.....it isn't an easy deal unless the whole thing is on the bench .....which means figuring out how to get to bolts etc holding this thing in place...?
Then I started looking at the suspension...lol.  But that's for another thread...lol.  But she's going up!  Compared to jeeps it's easy!

Sorry back on topic. EGR crap.......now if you are totally against removing the EGR why comment...just saying...I'm not here to argue the pros and cons of this, just can it be done and what if anything would happen electrically as in codes and puting the car in limp mode?

 

Thoughts...????

 

Thanks....oh I'll be keeping the completely clean and functioning EGR etc for when the daily driver asks for it....lol.  Then tha'll be an easy swaping out...unless this process produces good results on the spare car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Willys

Two spanners (wrenches for the North Americans) mean the car is do for a “B” service, one wrench for the “A”.  Reset the service indicator and they will go away.  They alternate every service and one will light if the reset hasn’t been done in 8000 km.

 

Nigel

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK thanks, making that pc board this afternoon I think, maybe I'll make two at the same time...lol...keep the extra parts as spares..?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After buying 2 Mercedes cables for $40 dollars to get the connector when making my emulators, on the last one I built I used copper pins made from #10 gauge household wiring. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, smartdriver said:

After buying 2 Mercedes cables for $40 dollars to get the connector when making my emulators, on the last one I built I used copper pins made from #10 gauge household wiring. 

Is this because you ran the system inside the bodywork or just for strength from vibration?  IF these little creations fail due to cold or heat then it makes perfect sense to relocate them to the inside no...?  That is why I'm asking.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I put the circuit board into a small plastic case, plugged the device into the connector at the end of the EGR cable and used nylon tiewraps  to strap it to another hose in the engine compartment.

 

The only environmentally sensitive device in the circuit is a Tantalum capacitor (as opposed to an Electrolytic capacitor) which was chosen so that the circuit could be operated over temperature extremes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

OK, now to get myself a connector to be able to plug this thing into the car's wiring...joy oh joy....lol

Anyone got one sitting around they have little use for before I place an order..?

 

Mine will also be installed within a small plastic box and I'm possibly thinking I may insulate it also just for that extra  protection..OR does it get hot and require some cooling?

 

 

Edited by Willys

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You won't need a connector if you make your own 5 pins from a short piece of #10 gauge house wiring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, smartdriver said:

You won't need a connector if you make your own 5 pins from a short piece of #10 gauge house wiring.

Damn...too late, epoxied in now...oh well next time....damn!  lol.


Hmmm.......maybe I'll simply make another now...lol

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

There is an advantage to buying the $40 Mercedes connector.

 

You can used the unused connector on the cable to plug into the now unused EGR valve to protect its exposed contacts.

 

In my case, I stuffed the EGR valve now unused connector pins with a small piece of styrofoam to protect the pins.

 

The Mercedes cable was originally sold with an extra 470K Ohm resistor in the cable.

 

It is my belief that this extra resistor protected from going into limp mode caused by a bouncing contact on the resistive feedback potentiometer in the EGR valve.

 

This fault could still occur to any who use a blocking plate instead of using an emulator.

Edited by smartdriver

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just like the ease of pluging in a connector instead of pinning in seperate wires, so I'll order the connector and wait.....it's not like it's going anywhere.....I have other bypass issues to make etc. Not to mention get the scoop dealt with.  Oh well time to call and back to the grind.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

$35 be here tomorrow....I'm amazed and he knew it was an adapter cable...lol for a smart.....didn't know how it adapted....and I didn't offer to explain it to him, Newmarket MB...

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, finally getting around to attaching the emulator to the new plug, I know i read it somewhere but, do we want to use this addition MD installed into our emulator.....or simply use the plug without their modification also?

 

Sorry just very sore and tired from other stuff....over the past few days.  My bull in a china shop days are definately over, I tell myself this everytime I feel this way after thinking differently at the time....lol.  Damn I'm old....and broken.

 

Thanks for the help, keep it or loose it....?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just cut the connector from the cable leaving the lead length you require.

 

The unused connector on the other end can be used to cover and protect the now unused EGR valve pins.

 

The rest of the wiring including Mercedes' 470K Ohm additional resistor may be scrapped.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you sir...much appreciated.....now back to bed, L4-L5 is playing up again, dang!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Speaking of emulators... I was about to order up a couple more emulators from Tafmet which I have been using and have been reliable. Then I noticed the shipping is now $40 each piece which is luda since even ordering two of them, would fit into a tiny bubble mailer. Brought the total up to $200 for a pair of them.

Anyone else sourced a good quality emulator for less dough?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

    Chatbox
    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More