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Why not make your own, they are easy to make and the parts are easy to get and cheap. it's just sitting down to set them up to position  that takes the time..?  I haven't tested mine yet but if it works reliably and people want them I could start producing them..

The most expensive bit is that end plug if you are wanting one...and the MD stealership had it in a day. Wasn't Stickman doing them..?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I still make them once in awhile...the MB plug was expensive, so I 3D print them. The STL file is available for download at the thingiverse site. If anybody wants the DWG file for editing, please pm me (free of course).

 

The prospect of the ability to map the EGR function out is far better than using an emulator in the long run.

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Images of printed in Banchory, Scotland, designed in Canada EGR plug:

 

 

B704BC6F-63CE-47FB-81E9-36EF6FC04C4D.jpeg

679BEE1E-B45C-41D3-8611-3D199AFB0B61.jpeg

9E45A8F4-7427-4B4C-A9AC-F58C645B0F31.jpeg

F841D368-97B7-41F3-B252-9DADA86E7B0D.jpeg

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What they don't sell black electrical tape where you live...lol.  Why don't you remove your EGR valve totally and use a cleaner open flowing pipe etc....you have blocked it off correct so it's simply just a pipe  now right?  It does open up a whole load of space to work in...just curious?

 

 

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, Willys said:

What they don't sell black electrical tape where you live...lol.  Why don't you remove your EGR valve totally and use a cleaner open flowing pipe etc....you have blocked it off correct so it's simply just a pipe  now right?  It does open up a whole load of space to work in...just curious?

 

 

 

 

 

Not as easy as it may seem.  The EGR valve replacement pipe has to fit existing hoses and hold pressure.  I do intend to make a suitable pipe but too busy now enjoying fine summer weather.

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On 7/7/2018 at 5:19 AM, tolsen said:

Not as easy as it may seem.  The EGR valve replacement pipe has to fit existing hoses and hold pressure.  I do intend to make a suitable pipe but too busy now enjoying fine summer weather.

 

Actually not very difficult at all. Just need a 90deg rubber or silicone hose and short section of straight pipe. 
 

 

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Got a chance to see Inno's car today. His P1403 EGR code was caused by a seized pin on the solenoid portion of the EGR valve. The pin was stuck inside the solenoid...when I tap on the solenoid body, the pin would pop out slightly, but then as soon as I push on it, it stuck back in. In a normal solenoid, the pin should slide freely, and spring loaded. We ended up swapping the solenoid on a working spare valve I had.

 

The longer I work on these cars, the more I'm leaning against using an emulator if possible. I'll be working hard on developing a map that tunes the EGR out instead.

 

@booneylander I have 2 spare ones as I didn't need to use my emulator for inno or willys. pm me if you still need one.

Edited by stickman007

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Just wondering whats the difference from turning the EGR 180 degrees instead of using a blocking plate? Seems like an easier solution

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Fitting blanking plate on exhaust manifold will, in theory, result in less turbo lag. 

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43 minutes ago, tolsen said:

Fitting blanking plate on exhaust manifold will, in theory, result in less turbo lag. 

 

Not to question your experiences, but could you explain the theory? I'm a little unclear on how fitting the blanking plate would lead to less lag than the 180 cartridge mod.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Hmmm....IMHO, I have always been one who looks at air flow and how to get it as good and efficient as possible for the power in engines to get the most from it.....sure in some applications you can't simply get much more, but in this case, when you can remove a obstruction from this airflow such as either replacing the EGR mechanism or gutting it to open up the step within it, it simply doesn't make sense to not do either of these two things if you are planning on using the Emulator mod....yes I suspect if you plan on simply turning the cartridge 180 then you're hoping it contiues to move to not throw the codes etc, but if something has been proven to work by removing it and adding the modulator why wouldn't you do so.....giving the better flow charactoristics  as well..?

That step is what 30% of the opening on the throat of the EGR so MUST cause some disrupted flow...no..?

Yes I can fully see if you simply want a quick fix and can't do the entire job yourself, then sure fingers crossed...but if you can, why not? Simply keep all stock parts aside and see i it does do strange things so you can in the worst case put it all back..?

Edited by Willys

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Placing blanking plate on exhaust manifold reduces exhaust volume before turbine hence turbine will spool up faster and in theory result in less turbo lag. 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

For those who may not have seen it, here is a video made by ProgFrog showing the pulse width modulated signal driving the EGR solenoid and the signal voltage coming from the EGR feedback resistor going to the ECU. 

 

In theory they should be proportional. In reality at the 2:30 and 6:30 points as the car was accelerating, even though the duty cycle has increased to 20% between shifts, the EGR valve remains closed which indicated to me that there was back pressure from the turbo which overcame the spring pressure on the EGR solenoid and temporarily prevented it from opening.

 

 

Edited by smartdriver

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Posted (edited) · Report post

1 hour ago, tolsen said:

Placing blanking plate on exhaust manifold reduces exhaust volume before turbine hence turbine will spool up faster and in theory result in less turbo lag. 

So removing it entirely would be even better then as you are blanking off the exhaust manifold and opening up the inside dia of said hose or tube for the air  flow..?

 

Edited by Willys

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EGR valve itself does not obstruct air flow much so not worth the effort making a replacement pipe except possibly to create room for a catch tank. 

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If the EGR valve is rotated where it plugs or stops the flow what does it matter if there is a cover plate just slightly before it? The difference of 20 to 25mm can't truly make any difference!

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Hmmm...?   IF you get into the search for more whatever it is you're after you get as much as humanly possible even if such little from each part or system....it all adds up in the long run.  Each small "fix" on it's own may seem totally insane to worry about. but added up they together might just make enough of a difference you could possibly feel, even if you simply use the reliable "Butt dynometer"...lol.  It is all a game, something to keep striving towards....gives you a purpose for tinkering. It keeps you attracted to your ride so to speak. When it seems to get to be a simply a mode of transport...now...lol
I till wash mine whenever it gets dirty, something I only do to my toys when I'm still interested in how they are performing or some other reason for me to stay attracted to it.  For me the idea of getting crazy fuel economy is top of my wish list and anything I do to it that reduces that just to gain a better working area as in removing the EGR system, it would be going straight back on and made to work as it should from day one. BUT, if i can get the space freed up and it even gets the same  performance or maybe even slightly better .....all the more demand for me to keep looking for more...

Enjoy the hunt or idea of working on your smarts.....just don't allow them to be "Just your mode of transport"...lol.

 

 

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It's weird, in 380,000 km of diesel smart motoring I've never had an EGR problem.

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Does that make you "special" Or lucky ....or both...???.....lol

Then comes the question.....why are we even talking about this fantastically reliable item then in the first place...? IF it's so dependable and such, why is there a work around or reapir thread for it?  OR is it we simply like to tinker with our rides....lol....just for fun and to maybe waste a few hours of our lives away.....something like a hobby or thought that maybe we could better maybe what we already have, a 100% perfect vehicle that'll never need any attention given to it at all...lol.

But you know all about the restoration etc from doing your black car....so you do love to tinker and play with it and just refuse to tell us about your trials and tribulations of the SmartCar...lol.  Damn I forgot, you don't have any....lol.Because you just told us this...lol

 

I'm just waiting for my back to allow me to get up again if I can get under my car to start putting stuff back together again..then start at the next modification to it...just for fun.

 

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Jeez, maybe it's time to unload that heavy chip on your shoulder..... it's just my own experience with the EGR.  I'm not saying the EGR or the car as a whole is reliable because for city driven cars it is not.  Because, actually, the smart diesel is completely unreliable compared to my Peugeot or Mercedes.

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1 hour ago, MikeT said:

It's weird, in 380,000 km of diesel smart motoring I've never had an EGR problem.

 

I think hat this had been mentioned previously.

 

It was my understanding that one of your cars had a remap. Any chance that the EGR valve was disabled?

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Good question.  The remap I have was installed by Eddy Lai.  I don't know whether it disables the EGR.  This car has had the remap for about 90,000 km. 

 

The other diesel smart I had from new had no remap and never had a code related to EGR, though the dealer replaced it at about 60,000 km with an updated one when they were trying to troubleshoot a problem with limp modes.  Turns out it was a failing clutch actuator!  That car went to 247,274 km before getting written off.

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I also had a remap by Eddy. Never had one iota of trouble with our EGR in 120,000 kms.

I seem to remember (which is unusual at my advanced age) that there was a significant

difference between the '05 and '06 EGRs...:huh:

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That sounds familiar to me.  I know the 2005 version was updated for some reason.....

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