Fuel Filter Service

[burnman 0]

Searched the forum. There seems to be nothing detailed about how to DIY change the diesel fuel filter. Looked on Evolution but nothing there either. Maybe it's a no brainer, but I just want to know I have everything before I take the bottom off. Can anyone help.

[The Rog Man 1]

Searched the forum. There seems to be nothing detailed about how to DIY change the diesel fuel filter. Looked on Evolution but nothing there either. Maybe it's a no brainer, but I just want to know I have everything before I take the bottom off. Can anyone help.

I would like a detailed how to on that myself, did you get the replacement water filter assy from Mercedes?what did they book you for it?

[yukoner 9]

Got a receipt for a filter P/N 646-092-07-01 from Hyatt in Calgary. $55.85 plus tax. I think that's the one. I did it, but I have no pictures and I don't think I can describe it. Try a PM to RichHelms, maybe he can help, or put you on to someone who can.Carl

[tyrant 0]

Link removed. For wrong model.

[smart142 605]

That link tells you how to change the fuel filter that isn't available in Canada.

The info can also be found here.

The first picture that I show in the above link is the filter that you want to replace.

Yukoner provided the part #.

I've replaced the main filter/water seperator but I would highly recommend that you do it on a hoist. The rear under belly tray has to be removed. It becomes evident what to do when you see it. The fuel line needs to be clamped and you will need 2 new small hose clamps. The water sensor from the old filter needs to be transferred to the new.

It's a messy job(diesel fuel spillage), but doesn't take long if it's up on a hoist.

Good luck!

[yukoner 9]

The water sensor from the old filter needs to be transferred to the new.Good luck!

Oh oh. Can't remember if I did that.Carl

[burnman 0]

I went to my dealer and they have me the Filter/Water Separator.After reading this thread, I'm not sure what to do?Options are:Get the other filter and change both.Change only the one I've got and leave the other one.Change the other one and leave the one I've just purchased on the shelf.Please help.

[smart142 605]

As far as I know I'm the only one in Canada who has both fuel filters.(I'll let you know how mine is running after I log another 100,000kms)Better stick with the majority and do option #2.

[burnman 0]

It seems strange that you have both and others don't. I'll have to do some investigating when I get under the car.

[smart142 605]

Read this and everything will be explained. There are also a couple of pictures that will be helpful.

Good luck.

[burnman 0]

I did the filter/water seperator change. It was an easy replacement except that the OEM hose clamps are the crimp on type. I cut them off and replaced them with the screw tightening type. Works just as good and are reuseable. I also saw the place where the second filter goes. Maybe the next time I'm under the care I'll add that filter. It makes sense to replace that one more often due the the lower cost.

[The Rog Man 1]

So Burnman: did you have acess to a hoist or how exactly did you get the car up high enough to get under it?I'm jus wondering so when it comes time for me to crawl under i have a better idea how to go about it?

[yukoner 9]

Four motorcycle jacks from Cdn Tire @ 89 bucks apiece, on sale. I put some wood inserts on them so I can drive up onto them, set the brake and get the car waay up into the air so I can get under with a creeper. (relatively) Cheap hoist, and very stable. PITA walking around and jacking it up a few inches at a time on each wheel, but did I mention cheap?Carl

[The Rog Man 1]

Hmmm 360 bucks eh, well I have never trusted a jack of any kind since i got my bell rung by a jack all.Yes i know those are dangerous jacks but still.Well it is one method i can consider, I hope others offer more suggestionsThanks for the idea Mr. yukon dude.

[yukoner 9]

Photos in 6,000 km.Carl

[bilgladstone 13]

Gee... this one is almost affordable!

The hoist, I mean - NOT the car

......................

B:sun:

[yukoner 9]

Wonder if you can get the belly pans off?Carl

[bilgladstone 13]

Wonder if you can get the belly pans off?

Carl

I'm not positive but from the looks of this picture, and using the 6" adapters that come with it, I think maybe one could wiggle the undertrays out OK.

What d'you think?

B:sun:

................

[yukoner 9]

Maybe. I'm trying to visualize where the screws are in relation to the jacking points.Carl

[bilgladstone 13]

Maybe. I'm trying to visualize where the screws are in relation to the jacking points.Carl

Here they are: @ www.evilution.co.ukLooks fine to me...B:sun:

[smartie yank 0]

As low as the smart sits, if may be difficult to get the 6" adapters under the car. I have an above ground lift and with my Jag, I can't even fit a 2" adapter under the car. The lift arms take up about 2 1/2" with no adapter. I'm sure the lift you pictured above is 2" or 3" by itself.

[burnman 0]

Sorry that I have not read the forum for a few days. I jacked the car up the regular way and put jackstands under it. I raises the car about 10" and give you lots of space to do all the B Service stuff. At the same time as the filter, I did the brake fluid flush and the rad flush. Rad Flush gave me more problems than the other since I had the problem with the air locks. That trick with raising the front left works. Next time I do it I'll take the hose clamp off the rad at the lower end and that should get out most of the coolant. This time, I just drained at the engine and just from looking at the car, you know that the lower rad is lower than the engine drain.

[yolanda 0]

That stand doesn't look like it'd work. To remove the rear undertray properly you need to swing it perpendicular. It stretches from door to door and is about 3' long, so there has to be an open air space under the car to get it out without breaking the tabs on the driver's side that connect it to the front undertray. I was so discouraged by my experience wherein I broke one tab that I'm reluctant to remove it again. I'm thinking of replacing them with zip ties and holes but I guess I'll wait till the other one breaks on me. Meantime I'm avoiding any work that requires tray removal again!

[Ronfire 0]

I have done mine on one of my smarts and will do the other today. I ran the car up on son 6" wood ramps, ( had to take a run at it ) then used the floor jack and raised the rear up onto some jack stands. I removed the under tray with little issues. Had to bend the plastic slightly to get he tabs back in bet all worked ok.Managed to reuse the clamps . the hard part was to open them with end cutters and a screw driver. Pe prepared for the diesel to run down your arms. wear cloths that you an trow away because the diesel smell does not was out.Well time to do the other one now.

[CANMAN 23]

Searched the forum. There seems to be nothing detailed about how to DIY change the diesel fuel filter. Looked on Evolution but nothing there either. Maybe it's a no brainer, but I just want to know I have everything before I take the bottom off. Can anyone help.

Hi Burnman,What a coincidence, I just did mine last weekend, I was just e-mailing another member about it.I used a filter from Partsource # GF1916 make by GKI cost $25.07 + tax.1. Get the whole car off the ground, I backed up onto ramps and then used two troller jacks, one on each side to raise the front. I figured out after that this was backwards because in order to put jackstands under the front I had to take off the front belly panel. So learning from my mistake drive the front wheel up the ramp then jack up the back.2. Remove rear belly panel.3. The filter is on the drivers side beside the fuel tank, you can't miss it. Put a drain basin underneath it.4. Disconnect the electrical connector on the water sensor, it has a small locking tab on the side.5. The filter is mounted to a metal bracket, I suppose the correct way to do it is to remove the bracket, one bolt at bottom leaving it handing on the fuel lines then loosen the clamp and slide the filter out of the bracket. I just removed the clamp bolt and bent the bracket arms out of the way leaving the filter hanging on the fuel lines. (My way probably not the best long term due to metal fatigue plus a bit harder to reassemble, have to use visegrips to hold clamp closed enough to start screw)6. Unscrew the black drain plug/air vent at the top and turn the filter upside down to drain the fuel out.7. Remove the two metal hoseclamps on the two lines into the filter, use a small common screwdriver or awl to pop them open. Other posts have said that you can reuse them, I believe that they are like cotter pins, intended for one time use only. 7/32- 5/8 hose clamps are only $1.09 ea.8. Pull the two fuel lines off, really hard, lots of twisting, (remember which one is which) Then remove the wavy sleeve off the bottom of the filter.9. Now you have to remove the water sensor from the filter, unscrew the two torx holding it on. There are two tangs over the plastic lobes, you have to use a couple of common screwdrivers to rotate the sensor out from under the tangs then carefully pry up evenly on both sides, be careful, it's plastic. Pull out the sensor.10. Replace the two O rings on the sensor that came with the filter.11. Now for the hard part, lubricate the O rings with vaseline, use lots on the top one. Insert the sensor into the filter, I had a real problem with this, I was working outside in my unheated garage temp around -2. I couldn't get the sensor all the way into the filter let alone rotate it into position. I brought the new filter into the house to warm up for a day. At room temperature it was a little bit easier, not much, I was really afraid of breaking the plastic. I ended up using visegrips and common screwdrivers to get it into position. I think that maybe the manufacturing tolerences on the aftermarket filter may have been off a bit.12. Now the easy way, go to Mercedes and buy their filter for $130, it comes with a new water sensor already installed.13. Or buy just the water sensor I think that it's around $30 and install it in your aftermarket filter before you start this job so it will be plug and play. Remember to remove the old water sensor from your filter before discarding it to use next time.14. Install the two screws back into the top of the sensor and put the drain/vent back in.15. Slide the two hoseclaps on the fuel lines and re install the fuel lines on the filter and tighten clamps.16. Hook up the electrical connector.17. Put on Safety Glasses get someone to turn the key to position 1, you will hear the fuel pump run, loosen the bleed vent to let air out. The pump will run for 9 seconds and shut off. Have you helper turn key off and on again until you get fuel without air coming out of the vent. (Be careful it squirts a long way) Have helper turn off key, then tighten bleed screw.18. Put the wavy sleeve back on the new filter then reattach the filter to the bracket.19. While I had my car up on the stands I painted the driveshafts and changed the transmission fluid. (See evilutions website)Sorry I don't have any pictures, If you need any further help feel free to PM me.CANMAN