· #26 Posted December 30, 2020 (edited) · Report post 27 minutes ago, GreenBombLittleChickie said: Where did you find new rings? Dealership Newmarket, cheap...I usually buy them all when I go in for 3...lol. Sorry used them all and need to go back for more soon. Edited December 30, 2020 by Willys Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #27 Posted January 15, 2021 · Report post No worries. I did them all and put everything back together. She worked fine for a week-no burned fuel smell anymore and she actually seemed happier when starting and stuff. On Tuesday she died... she wasn't going into reverse at first, which I had a work around for. Then out of the blue she gave me the 3 bars of death and I haven't been able to start her since. I've been reading on the forum here that it could be a failing(or in my case failed) gear sensor which seems straight forward to fix, clean and solder. However, some people suggest it could be the clutch plate.... have you ever come across this issue? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #28 Posted January 15, 2021 · Report post I'd check the wiring to the gear selector drive motor where it crosses the inter cooler scoop for rub shorting.....then the obvious ground pin that relates to that motor, sorry don't remember where that is exactly but I would search for it. Just follow back the wiring to it....you have to follow the wiring anyway to check for rubs. Then I would reteach the gear/transmission and clutch actuator while at it... People suggest that our clutches rarely fail and I will admit i haven't personally seen a worn out clutch but normally actuators out of adjustment or transmission gear selectors requiring a reteach.....simply teaching it how many revotutions are each gear is at. But that requires the STAR to do. What dash lights are on besides the 3 bars of death..? I'm not sure if any leave while trying to start it and then come back on....warning lights etc..? Just wondering if that is a thing that happens? It's been a long time since I had the 3 bars and don't remember what else comes on while they are showing...sorry.? Do you have the under shirts or belly pans on your car? IF not then maybe your brake light switch is corroded? It's in the brake booster box under the floor boards. IF, you need parts...now is the perfect time to get them from Glenn as he has a warehouse full of them and going at very very fair prices.....just saying....? So any absolutely any parts you could think of he may have going cheap....worth the investment IMHO...Sorry to veer off topic but it's a thought...? 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #29 Posted January 15, 2021 · Report post Also pull the clutch actuator off and look in the hole and make sure you haven’t punched a hole in the fork. Nigel 2 people like this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #30 Posted January 16, 2021 · Report post 22 hours ago, Nigel said: Also pull the clutch actuator off and look in the hole and make sure you haven’t punched a hole in the fork. Nigel Ouf, that does not sound like fun. Will do thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #31 Posted January 16, 2021 · Report post 23 hours ago, Willys said: I'd check the wiring to the gear selector drive motor where it crosses the inter cooler scoop for rub shorting.....then the obvious ground pin that relates to that motor, sorry don't remember where that is exactly but I would search for it. Just follow back the wiring to it....you have to follow the wiring anyway to check for rubs. Then I would reteach the gear/transmission and clutch actuator while at it... People suggest that our clutches rarely fail and I will admit i haven't personally seen a worn out clutch but normally actuators out of adjustment or transmission gear selectors requiring a reteach.....simply teaching it how many revotutions are each gear is at. But that requires the STAR to do. What dash lights are on besides the 3 bars of death..? I'm not sure if any leave while trying to start it and then come back on....warning lights etc..? Just wondering if that is a thing that happens? It's been a long time since I had the 3 bars and don't remember what else comes on while they are showing...sorry.? Do you have the under shirts or belly pans on your car? IF not then maybe your brake light switch is corroded? It's in the brake booster box under the floor boards. IF, you need parts...now is the perfect time to get them from Glenn as he has a warehouse full of them and going at very very fair prices.....just saying....? So any absolutely any parts you could think of he may have going cheap....worth the investment IMHO...Sorry to veer off topic but it's a thought...? I'm going to check this early this morning, and see what I find. I'll be in touch regarding the others. Thanks! 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #32 Posted July 29, 2021 · Report post A few quick questions: 1) any cheapskate way to mount the injectors to a vise? And 2) ultrasonic clean the injector bodies in diluted Simple Green HD? 2a) old nozzles in place? Or off? 2b) submerge all the way up to/above the fuel inlet, but not the plastic/electrics? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #33 Posted July 29, 2021 · Report post 9 hours ago, Francesco said: A few quick questions: 1) any cheapskate way to mount the injectors to a vise? And 2) ultrasonic clean the injector bodies in diluted Simple Green HD? 2a) old nozzles in place? Or off? 2b) submerge all the way up to/above the fuel inlet, but not the plastic/electrics? What exactly are you asking...? You basically repeated the procedure to do the job as best I/we can without sending them to an injector shop and paying huge money for them to do it for you.....OR...you can ship your injectors to me and I can do it for you as I have the cleaner and tools needed....but you supply the injectors and new nozzles... IF you want to do this PM me and we'll talk money. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #34 Posted July 29, 2021 · Report post LOL yeah sorry about the ambiguity; it was late at night. My main question was how I secure the injector in my vise, do I need a plate like all the Cummins kits have? Or is there enough there to just grab the body and have a go at the cap? For the US cleaning, basically I can submerge it all except the plastic/electrics? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #35 Posted July 29, 2021 · Report post 4 hours ago, Francesco said: LOL yeah sorry about the ambiguity; it was late at night. My main question was how I secure the injector in my vise, do I need a plate like all the Cummins kits have? Or is there enough there to just grab the body and have a go at the cap? For the US cleaning, basically I can submerge it all except the plastic/electrics? You can clamp it hard just where it "Y's" out at the top near the inlet port. Then add heat and some force and the nozzle cap will release. Yes I soak the entire thing up to the top plastic section. IF you want to you can take that apart also but no real need imho. I usually soak mine for 3 shots of 30 minutes and then see what they look like. Usually like new and a quick blast of air, they are waiting for new nozzles and caps. I don't touch the two mating surfaces.....in any way that is for the needle and push rod calibration. I haven't had one go wrong in any way yet and I have done 5 sets so far. It's easy if you have the tools and a bit of patience. Just do not mix any parts between the three injectors.....as in internal parts...just to be safe. 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #36 Posted July 30, 2021 · Report post 1 hour ago, Willys said: You can clamp it hard just where it "Y's" out at the top near the inlet port. Then add heat and some force and the nozzle cap will release. Yes I soak the entire thing up to the top plastic section. IF you want to you can take that apart also but no real need imho. I usually soak mine for 3 shots of 30 minutes and then see what they look like. Usually like new and a quick blast of air, they are waiting for new nozzles and caps. I don't touch the two mating surfaces.....in any way that is for the needle and push rod calibration. I haven't had one go wrong in any way yet and I have done 5 sets so far. It's easy if you have the tools and a bit of patience. Just do not mix any parts between the three injectors.....as in internal parts...just to be safe. That’s great, thanks for clarifying for me! Yes, I searched, but “injectors nozzles” brings up around 400 hits. After three years parked, starting to tackle a few niggling issues that had me lose confidence in the little cabrio and count on my 27 year old Crapolla to get me to work on time. Changed the waste gate hose and clamps that kept throwing a P0238 overboost and semi-limp mode. Got that done, went for a nice long ride, then after dark remembered that the headlamp stalk had fried before I parked it! I’d already taken it apart and cleaned and greased the contacts but it went from intermittent to permanent after a short while. Kenny U-Pull Cornwall had two 450s with intact headlamp stalks today, so I grabbed both; the Kenny closer to me in Laval had a dodgy one (that I took, with fingers crossed, yesterday), but for $5 it didn’t pay out. Need two rear tires for the Michalak 16s but of course 195/40R16s are impossible to find now, so I’ll likely need a set of four in a different size. This weekend I’ll remove, clean out and lube the actuator and verify the state of the brass acorn nut, then preload it and do a full teach. The only other major issue is a new turbo, should I decide to keep the car next spring. It’s whining quite loud now, and the hole in the manifold is getting bigger. Considering rebuilding the old core I got from… I don’t remember whom! Blaast Performance does great work but that would be around twice the price of a whole new turbo from AliExpress. Still making pretty good boost overall, but nowhere near the low end torque or top end power as before I started seeing soot everywhere on the right side. Lots of decisions to be made, lots of work to do. I may not decide to keep it. But boy did I miss running about in the little scamp! 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #37 Posted July 30, 2021 · Report post Both Stickman007 and myself have aliexpress turbo and manifold kits, he has his on the road and mine is still in the garage but installed ready. He has said he hasn't had a second of problem with his. So for the price I'd buy another in a heartbeat! I have put up the location where I buy my nozzles from many times but I need to dig through all my paypal purchases to find it again so I think it would be faster for you to do a search here....lol. I'm in a rush at the moment to fetch a couch.....sorry. IF you have a U-Pull, I'd almost check their turbo situation ...? If the price is right of course. But alli was a great price. 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
