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buellwinkle

Parrot BlueTooth for your Smart

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I've tried all sorts of bluetooth devices, the best rated ones out there, Jawbone, Samsung, Blueant Supertooth and nothing is as convenient or easy to use as permanent hardwired setup and the best deal out there is the Parrot CK3000 ($85 on ebay, $10 shipping). No need to remember to turn it on or off, no need to charge it, no loosing it, no falling off the sunvisor or off the ear.

It doesn't require that you modify anything on your Smart, just plugs in the back of the radio and works. When you get a call, the radio automatically mutes and the voice plays through the speakers using it's own amp, not the radio amp so the radio need not be on for it to work. This takes about 16 minutes to do. You have to remove the radio, if you don't know how, remove the bank of buttons by pulling straight out. There's a torx screw in the middle that you remove. Then the plastic bezzle pulls out from the top at the dash. Then you just remove the screws holding the radio and it slides out easily.

Here's what it looks like in my Smart with the mic to the left of the radio and controlles on the ledge below the radio -

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This is a minor mod you have to make to the harness that comes with the Parrot (BTW, this worked the same on my MB C230) -

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Ouch, scotchlock connectors.Solder and shrink wrap are the way to go if you want trouble-free future operation.But thanks for the recommendation. I'm going to have a look at this product.

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If this cuts power to the radio, might it reset the security feature? I can see a possible disaster!

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Buellwinkle is a good guy, we joined MBWorld in the same month back in 2001.... ;)

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If this cuts power to the radio, might it reset the security feature? I can see a possible disaster!

Don't know what you mean by security feature, I had to disconnect the radio to plug in this harness and the radio worked immediately without any security codes if that's what you mean. During normal operation, it disconnects the speakers from the radio and connects them to the amp in the Parrot module, otherwise the two amps would mess each other up. You can hookup the mute wire if you like, this is safer in theory because it mutes the radio at the same time as it disconnects the speaker but I didn't have a problem running without it. To do this, if it's the same as my MB radio which it probably is, plug the yellow wire marked "mute" to the blue wire on the harness marked "mute 2", no splice or solder required, it's just a bullet type connector. You can certainly solder the connections, it's an easy solder & heat shrink job as it's just a harness, no electronics, just depends what you like and are capable off. Not too many people on the forum are good at soldering so I did it that way to show them it's easy to do. The splice connectors I used are the best 69 cents for four that money can buy at Home Depot, I'm sure they will last forever, or longer. I never had one come lose and they are far better than the old style crimp connectors.

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By splicing, you mean cutting the green and orange wires and clipping them with that red plastic piece? (and ditto the other connector).

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Don't know what you mean by security feature, I had to disconnect the radio to plug in this harness and the radio worked immediately without any security codes if that's what you mean. During normal operation, it disconnects the speakers from the radio and connects them to the amp in the Parrot module, otherwise the two amps would mess each other up. You can hookup the mute wire if you like, this is safer in theory because it mutes the radio at the same time as it disconnects the speaker but I didn't have a problem running without it. To do this, if it's the same as my MB radio which it probably is, plug the yellow wire marked "mute" to the blue wire on the harness marked "mute 2", no splice or solder required, it's just a bullet type connector. You can certainly solder the connections, it's an easy solder & heat shrink job as it's just a harness, no electronics, just depends what you like and are capable off. Not too many people on the forum are good at soldering so I did it that way to show them it's easy to do. The splice connectors I used are the best 69 cents for four that money can buy at Home Depot, I'm sure they will last forever, or longer. I never had one come lose and they are far better than the old style crimp connectors.

Thanks for the clarity. In my car the smart radio has a security feature wherein if power is cut off, it will require the input of a security code from a card that came with it (and which I store in my files.) I thought this thing turned the radio off by cutting power, then using it's own speakers. I see that it's fancier than that. Sounds pretty neat really but I"m content with using a headset anyway.

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By splicing, you mean cutting the green and orange wires and clipping them with that red plastic piece? (and ditto the other connector).

No, no, no. Only cut the wires that have the fuse on them marked with flags saying 12V Battery and 12V Ignition, red & orange respectively. Then use the quick splice connectors (or solder if you prefer), these two wires you just cut, to the wires shown above. If you never used these quick splice connectors before, they have a channel that holds the continous wire (uncut), for example the green wire, then the cut orange wire goes in a hole next to it and stops inside as the other end is closed. Then you use a pair of pliers and push this metal staple like thing in the middle and that slices the insulation on the wire and grabs on the copper inside the wire and make the connection between the two. When that is completely pushed in and flush you can fold the plastic cover to protect it from touching other metal. What I do before I close the plastic cover is test it at the staple with a meter for 12V and pull on the wires to make sure they are in for good. I then close the plastic because once you close it, it's a PITA to open it again. One common mistake people make is not have the continous wire in there perfectly straight and when the push the staple in, it pushes the wire out of the connector and doesn't make a connection or makes a poor connection. Once you figure these out, you'll wire your entire house with them (only kidding, don't do that, it's not for a 15 amp circuit, you'll burn your house down). You can solder them if you know how to solder properly and are not going to put a messy cold solder joint that will later vibrate lose. This may save you 69 cents. I've seen professional service techs do some horrible solder jobs so I know there are many that think they know how to solder. I was an electronics major and know how to solder well, yet I still splurged on the quick splice connectors as they work pretty well. Actually if you want to do a seemless job, take the connector apart and solder directly into the pin heads. I did this on my nav install on my MB to give it a factory look, second time I just used quick connectors, good enough.

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So "wire tap" the orange to the green and the red to the orange? I think I've seen these splice connectors (wire taps) before but I probably have to see them in person to know for sure. These two splice connectors are from Radio Shack? Seems like a simple enough mod. What's the difficulty level? say.novice (never taken anything apart before)intermediate (has taken something apart before and follows DIY instructions and is decently handy)advance (knows how to make the connectors on his/her own with a circuit diagram)

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So "wire tap" the orange to the green and the red to the orange? I think I've seen these splice connectors (wire taps) before but I probably have to see them in person to know for sure. These two splice connectors are from Radio Shack? Seems like a simple enough mod. What's the difficulty level? say.novice (never taken anything apart before)intermediate (has taken something apart before and follows DIY instructions and is decently handy)advance (knows how to make the connectors on his/her own with a circuit diagram)

For skills, you need to be able tell red from orange from green, you'll need to know how to safely operate scissors (never run with scissors) and be able to use a pair of pliers to push down the metal tab on the quick splice connectors (practice first). You can go to Rat Shack and get a bunch for a $2 or you can go to Home Depot and get a smaller package of 4 for 69 cents. The only other way I know is to solder the wires or cut them completely, strip the insulation of each end and use wire nuts. If you are in So Cal I can certainly help you with it.You also need to be able to remove the radio which requires the use of a torx screwdriver and not any real skills other than not being afraid to pull hard to remove the bezzle.

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I don't have a torx screwdriver but I guess I can do the rest haha. I'm far from SoCal so I won't be able to take you up on your offer. Thanks though. I'll keep that in mind for my next mod. My car will currently be in storage until April.

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no, just the cars. We take out the dogs for this part of the year.

So you replace driving with mushing, makes sense. I probably would have go with snowmobiles, ones equipped with bluetooth if I lived up north.

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Some of us hardier folks use bicycles year round :-) I have bluetooth on the bike too, what's more. (motorola s9 bluetooth stereo headset):-) But the smart will have to do some time out on the ice too.

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So you replace driving with mushing, makes sense. I probably would have go with snowmobiles, ones equipped with bluetooth if I lived up north.

A helmet with integrated bluetooth would work too and you can bring it from snowmobile to sled to motorbike.

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