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steveyfrac

Biodiesel General Discussion

94 posts in this topic

Sorry to hear that Bil.The next time you're down hereI can fill you up with B50...At least you'd have a quiet smooth ride home!!!

How much is the B50 in North VanI filled up with B20 at Skunkys in burnaby.Cant remember the exact price per but it was just over 15litres and about $18 and change I paid.You dont need the card lock for that location if you go during business hours.I think I am going to join the co-op and get the B100.

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I don't know at the moment. Because it's cardlock the prices aren'tdisplayed at the pump. All I know is it's cheaper than the $1.45 per litreprice for B100 at the co-op.

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Milligan's bio-concentrate for me in the winter.Bil :sun:

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I'm still making my own. Costs me about 30 cents per liter to make. I am running B10 in minus 25 deg c right now.Debbie

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What rate do you charge your own time out at?

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What rate do you charge your own time out at?

I don't factor for my time. It is more of a hobby than a job. If I did, it would probably work out to an extra 25 cents per liter. I have a mostly unattended process other than the wash process.Debbie

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I have been running B75 all winter with no problems. Looking for another source now as I need to purchase my Bio now from Canada and not the US anymore :(Any suggestions finding some B50+ in Vancouver somewhere??Thanks

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Does anybody have any long term results of running high percentages of biodiesel? A while back I did some research and a lot of people who were using it with Mercedes CDI engines (CDI's being the key point) were suffering all kinds of side effects. Fuel filters lasting extremely short lengths of time, fuel systems gumming up because of the higher rail temperatures in CDI's, and the worst of it all, ring failure from the biodiesel hitting the side walls in the lower clearance CDI's and building up on the rings, eventually getting into the oil system and gumming it all up. I realize the Smart CDI isn't exactly high performance nor particularly high pressure compared to some other (Ok probably most other) CDI's, but it was enough to keep me away from it... To me, it doesn't matter how much smoother it runs, or sustainable it it, or environmental damaging it is not, if the engine plugs up and craps out after 100k or so...

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I have been running B75 all winter with no problems. Looking for another source now as I need to purchase my Bio now from Canada and not the US anymore :(Any suggestions finding some B50+ in Vancouver somewhere??Thanks

United Petroleum card lock North Van, B5,B20,B50...

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Lousy home brew might do that, but ASTM-certified BD should be less liable to gum up rings than regular diesel fuel is. The thing about filters gumming up is true though, for the first while, as the BD mobilises all the crud deposited in the system by regular diesel fuel. The smart cdi runs at injection pressures of up to 1600 bar, new diesels are at 20K only.I haven't heard of any really high km cdis running on BD but that doesn't mean they don't exist.

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Who provided the research info...Mercedes?

Owner's mostly. There was one mechanic or engineer I can't remember that had a write up about it, but I can't find it now. It basically boiled down to biodiesel gumming up the rings and getting into the oil, something which didn't happen on pre-chambered diesels due to the extra distance between the point of injection and the sidewalls. Here's some of the bigger ones:http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w211-e-cla...-mysteries.htmlhttp://biodiesel.tribe.net/thread/005dd079...a4-8ff356c71a06http://www.mercedesforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29503Not sure if this one is a CDI or not, but still scary stuff: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=300215

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Lousy home brew might do that, but ASTM-certified BD should be less liable to gum up rings than regular diesel fuel is. The thing about filters gumming up is true though, for the first while, as the BD mobilises all the crud deposited in the system by regular diesel fuel. The smart cdi runs at injection pressures of up to 1600 bar, new diesels are at 20K only.I haven't heard of any really high km cdis running on BD but that doesn't mean they don't exist.

What about the thermal stability of ASTM-certified biodiesel? Will it still break down in the high temperature CDI fuel system? I'm sure there must be a reason why Mercedes only allows 5ish %...

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I wouldn't know, I don't use BD myself.

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I wouldn't know, I don't use BD myself.

Based on what I've read, I wouldn't either. It's just too risky when the engines in these cars are so expensive, and so many other people are having problems with it.

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120,000 on my smart. No engine problems and have been running b25-b75 atleast 100k. Engine runs better and quieter as well. Just took my car in for intercooler replacement and MB gave the rest of the engine a ok. Intercooler also was not a fuel related issue.

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It appears, based on another thread which compared additivesthat Bio is indeed the best at least for lubricity in only a 2% blend.I personally use B20 and B50 and haven't used anything higher but definitely notice the reduction in engine noise at the higher blend...

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Here's the bio diesel bible. Run Your Diesel Vehicle on BiofuelsbyJohn Starbuck and Gavin D.J. Harper. I have read it, and some parts twice. The information is excellent. I rented it from my local community college. It is wealth of info, and a DIY guide for those that want to partake in making your own quality bio diesel (key) professionally converting you car (key) and making a waste oil processor. I learned a alot about biodiesel and I plan on running my CDI on straight waste vegetable oils (WVO) with solenoid valves, heaters and a second tank. (A normal fuel system conversion vs the engine conversion. I bought a hot water heater to process quality biodiesel to run without modifications but I am not there yet. I would also like to run straight on clean vegetable oil but it is more expensive than diesel! For me bio diesel is a way to save money.I don't know where to buy commercial bio diesel blend in SW Ontario. Here is a diesel tip. I find that diesel is about 10 cents cheaper at truck stops. In London and Cambridege it is 1.20 per liter at gas bars but 1.11 at the truck stops along the 401. It's been that way for almost 2 weeks. Well that when I noticed it anyway. I don't think gas chains go through the quantity of diesel that the truck stops ( TA Center, flying j ect) do, so they cant offer a competitive price.

Edited by FinallyGotOne

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I have been making and running my own bio now for almost 1 1/2 years. B100 during the summer and as little as B20 during the winter. The only problems I have seen is the fuel filter plugging up due to the crud already in the tank and some Bio in the oil (diesel does blow by the rings as well and is concidered normal). I have checked the egr valve and is clean as a whistle! The glow plugs failed at 130000 km, which is normal life for these. I also had a look at the turbo which was also clean, not as sooty as a diesel run turbo.When running B100, fuel milage is down about 5 - 10%, which is normal concidering the higher flash point. Power is approximatly the same to a little less, maybe 5% reduction max.I started running Bio at 95000 km and now have 132000 km and going strong.A friend has a Dodge diesel and used 2 tanks running out to and from the mudboggs, towing the toyhauler. This is a chipped and modded 3/4 ton, which smokes excessively when floored under load. On bio it smokes alot less, I can actually see the truck thrugh the grey smoke!Finally, when some club members were out at a get together during the summer, I gave away some Bio for their cars. They reported the cars were quieter, little change in the power or milage when blended. Hopefully they will poke in and say hi.Robert

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Erin, ON is a bit of a hike for diesel but now I know where to get it. ThanksI am wondering what has worked for you guys to get your hands on waste oil. I find that every business I have talked to already have a company taking away their oil. I hate having to be picky too. My guide book says that you need to test the lipids and ph level of the WVO to sources out quality WVO for your car. That means you need to beg for some WVO and possibly have to tell them that theirs is no good to use. Are there any tips? Also are there any tips on converting the smarts fuel system or engine to run on pure oil. I read one post where the individual was using the 2 tank system. What 6 port solonoid did you use and did you make a homemade heat exchanger ( tank, lines and filter) I am really curious.

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In a nutshell, do not use the Smart on waste or pure veggie oil. The injectors are not big enough for WVO to keep clear. The glycerine in the oil will cake on the injectors and literally kill them. Larger engines can withstand this fairly well, but not the smaller engines (Smart, Kaboda, Cat, etc). WVO and PVO are thick at the best of times and will harm the fuel pumps as well.Plus, the fuel heaters, extra tank, lines etc..... Where are you going to put them?Robert

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It appears, based on another thread which compared additivesthat Bio is indeed the best at least for lubricity in only a 2% blend.I personally use B20 and B50 and haven't used anything higher but definitely notice the reduction in engine noise at the higher blend...

All diesel in BC is running B3-B5 now by regulation. My 2005 cdi loved B50 - B100 when I could get it.Having heard nothing back from Milligan's about the recent Texas test results, I picked up a bottle of Stanadyne Performance Formula® today and added some when I filled the tank. We'll try it for a few fills and see what observations we can make.
Meets all fuel system requirements regardless of make, model or year Approved by Original Equipment Manufacturers (OEMs)  Cold Weather Protection - reduces diesel pour point up to 40°F (22°C), and cold filter plug point by up to 25°F (13°C), depending on base fuelHot Weather Protection - lubricants and cetane improver help when fuel is hot and "thin"Increases Horsepower - with up to 5 point cetane gain to improve combustion, resulting in better acceleration, power and torqueReduces Fuel Consumption - independent tests show gains up to 9.6% in MPGEasier and Faster Starting - in all conditionsReduces Smoke and Particulate Emissions - and is suitable for ultra low sulfur dieselCleans and Protects - detergents and deposit modifiers help protect injection pumps, injectors, nozzles, etc.Reduces Wear - lubricity improvers restore lubricity to ultra low sulfur and other low lubricity diesel fuelsStabilizes Fuel - antioxidants keep fuel fresherFights the formation of corrosion and rustContains No Alcohol - avoids corrosion and accelerated wearHelps Remove Water - special demulsifiers cause tiny water droplets to come out of suspension/emulsion, so the filter/separator can more effectively remove waterSpecially Formulated for use with ultra low sulfur diesel fuelCan be used with Bio Diesel Fuel up to B5 (5% bio content approved )  - increased water separation shown in bio content up to B20

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