smartlover4evr

Door Ajar Light

79 posts in this topic

10 is close. Well over is not. 11.1 is is 14% above fuelly's #'s. I do better than average, yes.

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OK well you have to admit that the figure I was using when saying "well over 10" means I was not exaggerating, in fact I rounded down to below 11! :P

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I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and say, yes; well over can include less than 10% over.

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So last night I changed the filter. I took out the sensor and cleaned it up. Sprayed the plug with CC and applied dielectric grease. I also removed the door panel and cleaned up the door latch and such. I made sure the filter was well purged before starting and went for a drive. Initially there was no difference.

After starting the car a couple times everything was OK. Drives door was working properly, fuel sep light was off. Door ajar light was doing what it was supposed to. Thought I was good. Then tonight the fuel sep light is back on and the door ajar light stays on dimly again. :kill:

My experience in the past is that replacing parts without thorough diagnosis usually ends up with me feeding my car money. But do I replace the sensor? Could box E-boxes I tried be bad? Will the STAR tell me a story? Any advice would be appreciated.

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Crap!

Well maybe there is some wiring issue, although it is still possible but maybe not probable that your two E-boxes are bad. Did you have a really close look at the condition of the wiring connector (harness side)?

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I D/C the battery and had a look at the connector in the bottom of the battery well. It was crunched a little from the movement of the battery. I gave it a wiggle back into shape and hooked the battery back up. I also removed the ebox, cleaned both ends with contact cleaner, applied grease and put back together. Started the car and the fuel sep light was out. When I'm able I'll have to solder the wires together and remove the plug entirely. Drivers door still being wonky. But one step at a time. Glad to have this part figured out. Thanks!

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Last night I finally got the chance to cut the plug out of the battery well and solder the wires. You can see from the pic the plug was in bad shape. The door problems instantly went away. The fuel separator light went out and stayed out as well.

Also did both under seat air bag plugs. Cut them out and soldered wires back together.

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thanks for all the info, I removed the E Box and sprayed it with CC and found the wiring harness in front of the battery, sprayed it and now all the warning lights are working correctly and the door locks are working. Thanks for all the info. New to Smat cars and this forum

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Hey guys. I'm new to the forum; just signed up. I am responding to the E-box thing. I have a 2006 cdi. I am having the door ajar problem. Then my water separator light came on. Not knowing about the E-box issue, I didn't see a relation. I checked Evilution to figure out what the heck a water separator is. As best I can tell it's actually just a fuel filter. I ordered a replacement, went to install it, and was amazed to discover that my Smart did not have a fuel filter at all. It was obviously there at one time, but had been removed and a coupling added in its place. I cut the coupling out, installed my new filter, and sure enough, the wat sep light is out. But I still have the door ajar thing going. I'm going to pull the E-box and check it out. With the TSB, I'm wondering if this was a factory fix for the life of the car, or only until the warranty runs out. I hope to check to see if my Smart has had the fix or not.

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You fitted an in-line aluminium fuel filter just forward of right rear wheel arch?

Canadian Smart 450s has no fuel filter there. Filter is on left side at rear end of door sill under the car. Water detector is a float switch. You are supposed to drain water from filter from time to time. 

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Wrong! There is a spot on the right hand side to install a fuel filter. I did it 11 years ago. Here's a link -Unfortunately the pictures were lost during one of the sites crashes. ….

 

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“Wrong” is totally wrong word here and Smart142 is confusing the OP. 

 

All Canadian Smart 450 Cdis came with a large traditional type diesel filter containing a water detector. 

 

All Smart 450 Cdis for Europe etc like mine came with a small in-line fuel filter. 

 

Both filter down to same micron so no point having both fitted.

 

For my European spec Smart 450 Cdi, replacement interval for fuel filter is every 50,000 km. Although mine has now clocked 250,000 km, I have only replaced fuel filter once and current fuel filter has done 235,000 km. All I do is check it for flow from time to time. Flow through it is remarkably good so it is either still in a very good condition or it has no guts inside. 

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Reason for changing my fuel filter was it developed a leak in its rather thin aluminium cylindrical wall due to corrosion. To protect replacement filter I simply wrapped it in electro tape. Has worked fine so far. 

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14 hours ago, tolsen said:

You fitted an in-line aluminium fuel filter just forward of right rear wheel arch?

Canadian Smart 450s has no fuel filter there. Filter is on left side at rear end of door sill under the car. Water detector is a float switch. You are supposed to drain water from filter from time to time. 

 

is there a way to drain it without removing it and opening it up?

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14 hours ago, Tedder said:

Hey guys. I'm new to the forum; just signed up. I am responding to the E-box thing. I have a 2006 cdi. I am having the door ajar problem. Then my water separator light came on. Not knowing about the E-box issue, I didn't see a relation. I checked Evilution to figure out what the heck a water separator is. As best I can tell it's actually just a fuel filter. I ordered a replacement, went to install it, and was amazed to discover that my Smart did not have a fuel filter at all. It was obviously there at one time, but had been removed and a coupling added in its place. I cut the coupling out, installed my new filter, and sure enough, the wat sep light is out. But I still have the door ajar thing going. I'm going to pull the E-box and check it out. With the TSB, I'm wondering if this was a factory fix for the life of the car, or only until the warranty runs out. I hope to check to see if my Smart has had the fix or not.

 

pull out your battery and check the white to black connector with 5 wires ...it is forward of the battery and you wont see it unless you remove the battery

 

i would bet its corroded...it will set off the door ajar light 

 

check post #60 above

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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Hi again. I pulled up the passenger side floor today. The E-Box was relocated on the firewall, and was clean. I had approx 3/4 inch of water in the battery well. I siphoned, sponged and then left a hair dryer running on it all day, till the foam rubber dried out. Thanks, LooseLugNuts for the next step. I'll try that later. I'm going fishing tomorrow, so that day is gone. I'll be on the road enough to determine if my door ajar problem is still there.

 

BTW, I'm looking for a second towing loop. I haul a canoe on my smart, and have a dickens of a time finding a good place to anchor a tie-down strap under the rear. I figure if I can get another towing loop, those will be my tie-down points. My next option is to dill a hole in each of those massive cylinders in the rear suspension. I wish I had two holes in the front... then I'd be looking for two more loops. I tried home depot and CTC for a large metric bolt, but neither had that big. If anyone is willing to part with a towing loop, pls let me know.

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Hi again. I pulled up the passenger side floor today. The E-Box was relocated on the firewall, and was clean. I had approx 3/4 inch of water in the battery well. I siphoned, sponged and then left a hair dryer running on it all day, till the foam rubber dried out. Thanks, LooseLugNuts for the next step. I'll try that later. I'm going fishing tomorrow, so that day is gone. I'll be on the road enough to determine if my door ajar problem is still there.

 

BTW, I'm looking for a second towing loop. I haul a canoe on my smart, and have a dickens of a time finding a good place to anchor a tie-down strap under the rear. I figure if I can get another towing loop, those will be my tie-down points. My next option is to dill a hole in each of those massive cylinders in the rear suspension. I wish I had two holes in the front... then I'd be looking for two more loops. I tried home depot and CTC for a large metric bolt, but neither had that big. If anyone is willing to part with a towing loop, pls let me know.

 

Thanks Tolsen for the info on the fuel filter. How would I have known? Actually, when I had the bottom panel off and discovered there was no fuel filter in front of the passenger rear wheel arch, i did look around to see if there was anything anywhere else; and I didn't see anything. Can you post a photo of the water separator, and give some info on how to drain it?

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The towing eyes are about 20 dollars each at the dealer.  I’ve read somewhere that there is provision for a second towing eye behind the front bumper cover you would have to drill the hole.  I can’t confirm this as I’ve never paid attention when the cover was off.  

 

Nigel

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The towing eyes are shared with Mercedes and probably are just about free at wreckers.  I have about 4 of them, somehow.

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Towing eye threads are ACME 5/8" - 8 TPI and you will have a hard time finding a threaded boss that you can fit on left hand side of bumper unless you cut one out of a donor car.  The easier opion is to fit a metric or imperial riv nut on that side and screw in a lifting eye bolt wih matching threads.

 

As regards draining water out of filter, I am convinced the cock located on top of water sensor on filter housing is intended for draining water.  Please try and report back. You may have to switch on ignition for a second or two to pressurise fuel system.  Collect drained fuel in a clear bottle or tray so you can inspect for water.

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Regarding second “towing eye” on front of a 450. 

 

In my my previous post I suggested fitting a rivnut on left side of front bumper. 

Rivnut needs to be at least M10 and made out of steel for adequate strength.

Aluminium rivnuts are far too weak so do not use for this particular purpose. 

 

A rivnut tool suitable for an M10 steel rivnut is rather expensive. I therefore made my own. 

Threaded bar M10 or sufficiently long M10 set screw, connector nut M10, flat bar, normal nut M10 and three 10 mm washers. 

Threads and washers must be greased to reduce friction.  Crimp rivnut in place by tightening lower connector nut. Normal nut and connector nut at top is for the initial counterhold.  

AF6F3B7E-A651-41F3-A351-C2F4CFE283F4.jpeg

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