Flashing lights don't flash right (or left properly)

[ARTZ 0]

I know I haven't been on the forums in a long time. Never any spare time, but I'm still loving the smart. However, my car is having flashing problems. I searched the forums first but I didn't find an answer so I am posting this now.

I will just highlight the scenario and see if you can determine what I need to do to get my lights to flash when they are suppose to.

First off I have moved my front turn signals to the Euro location, with flashing side repeaters, when I first got the car (so they have been working fine for 3+ years) and I have the daytime running lights disabled (trying to save a few light bulbs).

These are the situations:

Headlights turned OFF:

[*]turn on right turn signal - lights flash quickly; right front bulb doesn't light. I assume burnt out light; replaced with another PY21W still same problem. Haven't check with a volt meter yet.

[*]turn on left turn signal - no problem

[*]apply brakes - lights work but I hear a click, about twice a second, from the little silver box attached above the battery.

[*]everything else seems fine

Headlights turned ON:

[*]turn on right turn signal - same problem as above

[*]turn on right turn signal AND apply brakes - the "clicking" sound stops and right side indicators flash quickly, except for front one

[*]turn on left turn signal - no problem

[*]turn on left turn signal AND apply brakes (this is where the fun starts) - the "clicking" sounds goes faster (4 times per second), the left side turn indicators stop flashing and the right ones start to flash. Release the brake and the right side turn indicators stop flashing and the left one starts flashing normally and the "clicking" stops. This makes no sense to me. All of the "clicking" sounds are coming from the silver unit in front of the battery in the passenger footwell.

So, is my car sick? It is off warranty by about 5000kms (which sucks). Any ideas?

[J&J 1]

I am not familiar with the smart flasher circuit, but on an ordinary car there are only 3 things to check1. the bulbs2. the flasher3. the ground circuit from each bulb - I would check this - based on your symptoms.

[Retired RCAF 0]

I don't, but do you know where the flasher unit is on our cars? It might be the silver box by battery. Can't check mine till I get home tonight.First off I think you have a bad connection to the light on the right side. I say this because the replacement light doesn't work. Thus the faster flashing on indicator and rear light because they are getting the power not going to the front light.Then I think you have a short somewhere because the juice from the brake lights is leaking over to the right side and this is possibly all happening in the silver box.I wonder if the silver box is some sort of relay for all the lights and it has gone bad.Then again there is the possibility this is happening in the steering columb.My best guess,Mike

[ARTZ 0]

Okay, does anyone know where the groud circuits are for each bulb? The first one that I would want to check is the front right one. I cleaned the main ground of the battery yesterday and it didn't make a difference.One other thing that I forgot to mention was that ever couple of trips that last over 20 minutes the problem may magically disappear. However, if I stop the car, turn it off and then restart it right away the problem returns immediately. The entire problem started about 2 weeks ago and I have been trying different bulbs and still no go. The only bulbs that I didn't replace are the reverse bulbs since they seem not to be apart of this equation.The front right turn signal bulb has been working incorrectly for about a month, but after using the turn signal for about a total of a minute the front bulb would flash again. But, I have not been able to get the front right bulb to flash again since this problem with the brakes making the constant "clicking" sound.So anyone have a diagram to where these individual grouds are?

[ARTZ 0]

I wonder if the silver box is some sort of relay for all the lights and it has gone bad.

I am pretty confident that this silver box is full of relays. It is about 3 inches by 4 inches and about an inch thick and it has two low voltage (thin wires) wire connections with at least a dozen wires in each. I'm hoping it is not that because of the high shine of this box it probably costs a pretty penny.

[Retired RCAF 0]

Does that silver box by the battery get warm after driving for awhile or using your lights for awhile?

Edited May 22, 2009 by Retired RCAF

[ARTZ 0]

I will be checking tonight when I get home. Will post later.

I am also going to check to see if the Light Stalk on the steering column gets warm as stated on www.Evilution.co.uk's website. This could be a problem.

EDIT: Actually after re reading the above link on Evilutions website, that is only with respect to the headlights and parking lights. Stupid me.

Edited May 22, 2009 by ARTZ

[ValgardForkbeard 2]

Hey, welcome back.Someone else had electrical problems that were tracked down to the ground strap from the engine (to the frame, maybe). The diesel rattle caused it to break or come loose, or a dealer left it detached.MG

[sponge 0]

a feel days after i first got my car from the dealer, the left turn signals front and back were flashing rapidly. i took it in and they said that one of the wires going to the bulbs had come loose (or was never fully tightened). they tightened it and the problem has never reappeared.

[bilgladstone 13]

Hey, welcome back.Someone else had electrical problems that were tracked down to the ground strap from the engine (to the frame, maybe). The diesel rattle caused it to break or come loose, or a dealer left it detached.MG

Coincidentally... while re-installing my tow hitch and cleaning the K&N air filter yesterday, I did the ground wire upgrade described on the Evilution smart Car Encyclopaedia here: http://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?id=251I had purchased a heavy duty insulated battery ground wire from Canadian Tire for this job some time ago and finally got around to it. It's a cheap and simple mod that could potentially prevent a number of electrical troubles.B

[Speedie 4]

Check the hatchet job they did on the front sidemarkers in Halifax - if they were like mine the tape-up job left a lot to be desired and there was not much in the way of a good splice. You will find them on either side of the car - you have to take the nose off for easy access (yeah I know - you contortionist types can do it through the side by loosening the fender).The ground for the entire circuit runs through there as well so that may be a cause - strip back the electrical tape - re-splice and tape up properly. Other thing you will find is the normally brown for ground wire is not hooked up to the ground on the side marker lights (see the euro-lights conversion thread).Also check the sockets for corrosion - not just the touch points for the bulbs but the connections going into the base - they are just a crimp fit and if the wire gets corroded then the connection sometimes is not going to be happy.Cheers,Cameron

[ARTZ 0]

I saw on Evilutions site about using those plastic wire connectors are a pig no-no and I know that they were used when someone else (not going to mention any names) helped me do the Euro light mod.I'm heading to Bangor Maine, today so I won't look at this until Sunday probably; but I'm still thinking it is the grounds because that makes the most sense to me.Later,

[42Kruiser 0]

I think that you might want to check those pig no-no connections and then spend some of your hardly earned cash on a nice new shiny silver box.ps: you're right, no need to mention names.

[ARTZ 0]

Well I finally got my lights working properly, after spending two afternoons working on it.With respect to the problems with the lights and tail lights not flashing properly I took the front panel off and cut out the "Halifax Wiring Job" and resolder all of the connections. I guess I didn't resolder them since they were not soldered in the first place, just those stupid clips.After doing that all of my lights were working great; for at least 2 days then my front right light stopped working again. And then a few days later it started working again. I was getting a very annoied with the entire thing. So...I took the front end off again and started playing with more wires. Behind the passenger side head light assembly there is a group of wires that were all taped together with red electrical tape. When playing with this group of wires I can get the light to start working again. I decided lets see what wires are broken in there. I took the headlight assembly out and unwrapped the wires and the wire that controls the turn signal was badly corroded at the lovely connection made in Halifax, I'm guessing.After soldering that back together I have not had a problem since. All lights seem to work proerply. So in my unofficial opinion, when you have the front panel off and have some spare time then you should resolder all connections that were made in Halifax; at least in the maritime climate.

[ARTZ 0]

Simple question, when I put my headlight back on, it just happened to still be aimed the correct way. If it didn't line up properly, is there a way to adjust the angle on the headlight? I didn't see any way of doing that besides using some shims or something.

[FlossyTheSmart 81]

Yes, there are allen key adjustment points on the headlight casing. See Evilution HERE

[ARTZ 0]

Thanks. I looked at it quickly but I didn't notice that when I had the light cluster out.