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ETHICAL BEEF

DIY Reluctor Ring Change

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Just want to say a special THANK YOU to Harald @ parts4smarts.Changed both of the rear Reluctor Rings this evening...Really isn't that bad following Evilution's outline.Found out you don't need to undo the lower shock bolts there seems to be plenty of room to get the axles out.Had the first axle laying on the floor in less than one smart radio cycle (about 25 mins)Cost ; rear axle seals $ 13.00 eachReluctor rings from parts4smarts $69.00 each.Had to invest in a 1/2 " drive 12 pt 21mm socket $12.50 (Federated tool supply) and a set of "E" torx sockets need the E18 $29.00 (Princess Auto)Need a good torch to heat the new rings up...they took alot more heat than I thought they would...made of GOOD stuffWas able to clear engine light code with the scan gauge and lose the ABS / ECB warning light too : )Were off to the Dragon tommorow!!

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Edited by ETHICAL BEEF

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Good Stuff!If you are shrink fitting the rings - try sticking the axle in the deep freeze for a hour or so (wait until the wife is out) - helps get the extra clearance - old trick from fitting wheel bearings - of course a nice big shop press would be good too but....A shot of paint might help extend the life of the rings as well.Cheers,Cameron

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Looks like they were painted in the photo. Nice job.

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Just want to say a special THANK YOU to Harald @ parts4smarts.Changed both of the rear Reluctor Rings this evening...Really isn't that bad following Evilution's outline.Found out you don't need to undo the lower shock bolts there seems to be plenty of room to get the axles out.Had the first axle laying on the floor in less than one smart radio cycle (about 25 mins)Cost ; rear axle seals $ 13.00 eachReluctor rings from parts4smarts $69.00 each.Had to invest in a 1/2 " drive 12 pt 21mm socket $12.50 (Federated tool supply) and a set of "E" torx sockets need the E18 $29.00 (Princess Auto)Need a good torch to heat the new rings up...they took alot more heat than I thought they would...made of GOOD stuffWas able to clear engine light code with the scan gauge and lose the ABS / ECB warning light too : )Were off to the Dragon tommorow!!

Nice job! Would you suggest replacing the axle boots while the axles are out? Also, I imagine part of replacing the boots means cleaning out/off what is under the boots.

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Nice job! Would you suggest replacing the axle boots while the axles are out? Also, I imagine part of replacing the boots means cleaning out/off what is under the boots.

If the boots are still in good shape (which mine still are) I wouldn't make more work for your self.On front wheel drive units ( vans and SUV's ) the boots have to flex far more than on our smarties and even they ( the boots and CV joints will ) will often last the life of the vehicle.E.B.

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Newbie Here...Might be a silly question, but I gotta know.When I take the axle shaft out of the GearBox is any fluid gonna come out?I'm asking because I don't own a drain pan yet...I went to Princess Auto and got my 21mm 12pt $2.59, my E-14 & E-18 $9.99 set, and even a $0.63 18mm Wrench

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No, but you will need the axle shaft seals (2) from the dealer- about $15 each.See you tonight :D

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Mine did not leak any oil but then I did not change the seals.

It is surprising to see the high fees you pay for ABS rings. Cheapest supplier in the UK at the moment is J&R Trading UK Ltd. Less than GBP 7 each incl of UK shipment. I see he posts worldwide but I can't see any shipment fees for north America so you will have to contact him.

Edited by tolsen

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In Canada they charge whatever the traffic will bear. What the company pays for the item has very little bearing on the cost of the item to the consumer. MB sets each item at an outrageous price and the independent dealers set their price somewhat below that so that makes the consumer think they are getting a good deal.Roy

Edited by yellow bumble bee

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i did the jb weld repair on my ring last week that had cracked in march. as per evils site. its a cheap fix just dont how long it will last, it got a really good test in the rain we had friday an worked very well.

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And yet again 'tis the season for a reminder.If you rotate the wheel while (safely) jacked up and spray the reluctor ring with a wicking rust preventive, all this (valuable) talk on the best way to obtain and change the rings is rendered moot, as you won't have to. Do it when changing to winter wheels, while you're at it spray the alternator as well to prevent the dreaded seizing.

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Krown, Fluidfilm, Waxoyl, many other brands. Basically a heavy sticky oil and/or wax dissolved in a light carrier. Penetrates any existing rust, wicks into any cracks, carrier evaporates, good stuff stays behind.

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I ordered a pair of those cheap ABS rings last night. The rings arrived this morning. Looks good. Externally they are zinc or chrome plated. Unlike the original rings which are sintered metal, these replacement rings are machined out of seamless steel pipe hence will take much more elongation before fracture than sintered metal rings.

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Job done :) Took a lil learning, I did it in the driveway/basement. I put the jack stands on the axle tube just ahead of the engine and when the time to pry the tube and pull the axle came I found I had to take the weight off the jack stand to get the axle to move...next time I'll know.I primed the new rings the day before and put a thick coat of Tremclad on after pressed on.I also lubed the clutch actuator while I was under there.

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