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BJSmart

how to cover radiator for winter?

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We've had a cold snap here -- no, not unbearably-cold, divert-all-flights-to-Calgary-cold like you guys had in Edmonton. But I really didn't think I'd need to block my rad until mid-January. I gave up yesterday (-22°C when I left for work at 3:20 am).I thought about putting my stock grille back for winter and using the pipe insulation again, but the thought of trying to yank it out again in spring irritates me. The RS Parts grille is easy to pop out, and the mesh is held on the back with eight Torx screws. I removed the screen and used it as a template to cut some black foam-core (I'm hoping the paper outer laminate holds up in the weather). Then I just screwed it in place. I cut another piece about 16"x5" and stuffed that upper the stock lower opening and wedged it between the panels. This should leave enough of a passage to get some air through. Finally, I did my annual heater vent blockage, this time using foam-core and speed tape. Off to work in five minutes, let's test it!

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BTW, thanks for all the suggestions. I went with The Roq Man's concept, cut 2 pieces of 3/4" foam pipe insulation to length and stuffed them between the grill slots. Friction fit and a couple of minutes to do. It's been -22 C here last few mornings also, plus all the snow 100+cm we got just b4 that! Little bugger actually climbs sno/icy hills pretty good!!!

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Im going to block off both front grills and the cabin air intake tomorrow. Ill upload some pics when i get some time to upload them.

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Upper grill blocked and cabin air intake blocked(with black plastic board and white zip ties)

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We have had 8" of snow since i took these pics and i would highly recommend blocking the cabin air intake. Both blocks have kept the snow out well

 

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On 11/4/2017 at 8:34 PM, RobCDI said:

Upper grill blocked and cabin air intake blocked(with black plastic board and white zip ties)

 

I am not familiar with the ventilation system of the car and I have a question.

 

What advantage would there be in blocking off the cabin air intake if the car heating system is switched to recirculate?

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If the heating system is on re circulation the cabin intake block has no impact.

 

Hot air holds water and cold air holds less. Thats why the inside of your windshield can ice up overnight as the hot wet air gets colder and leaves condensation on the interior.

 

If the air in the car is "moist" re circulation wont help. I can pull dry air from under the hood so the inside of the windshield shouldn't ice. Also if something in the car smells(e.g diesel) then i can get fresh dry air in the car. I dont think anyone needs to do the block, but if you have some spare time its worth doing. It helps with wiping the snow off too because there isnt a grill for the snow to get frozen into.

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11 hours ago, RobCDI said:

Hot air holds water and cold air holds less. Thats why the inside of your windshield can ice up overnight as the hot wet air gets colder and leaves condensation on the interior.

 

A number of years ago I had significant water ingress into my SAM.

 

At the time, the consensus was that this was caused by a leaky windshield seal.

 

My feeling is that it was more likely moisture condensing on the wiring harness which is above the SAM and wicking into the connectors and likely a contributing factor to the fuel pump and headlight connector problems.

 

After repairing my SAM, I jammed a sponge above it into the wiring harness. Five years later, parked outside in Canadian winter climate and no further issues.

Edited by smartdriver
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