What Did You Do To Your Smart Today?

[MikeT 744]

Yeah I love the little things. Brilliant.

[scwmcan 0]

I am not sure how to approach the dash board, Mike. I don't have the audaciousness to remove it as others have done, and I am not familiar enough with paints to really know how to apply it "in situ" - brush, sponge, whatever...? I think it could be done if I removed the diffuser rings, the cluster bezel and a couple of other easy bits. :dunno:B

Bill, taking the dash board off isn't bad at all, only takes about 15-30 minutes, just follow the steps on Evolution, it is all there, and not hard at all. It would probably take you more time to try to mask off the things you don't want painted, than it would to take off the dashboard.I have removed once, looking for and solving a rattle ( which turned out to be the broken drivers side spring in the long run). I think you would be happier with the results if you take it off.

[Francesco 71]

Change the speakers while you're in there, and it's a two-fer.

[scwmcan 0]

Decided to drive the smart to Hamilton today, between my vacation and the new ( to me ) matrix I haven't driven it since the 28th of July. Filled it up and started on my way, got a check engine light about .5 km from the gas station, pretty sure it is the stuck waste gate again, so turned around and took the matrix instead. I also think that when I put the parking break on, that the rear breaks are sticking too. I will have to make some time to lubricate a few things this week, and then see about giving the car a drive. It sure doesn't like sitting, even in the garage. Just don't have enough driving to do at this point. Think it is time to give my little car some TLC, to take care of a few other problems that have come up.

[bilgladstone 13]

Change the speakers while you're in there, and it's a two-fer.

Hmm... good idea. Before I get out the screwdrivers I will come back here for a "best recommendation" which speakers I should get.Bil

[sbungay 0]

Took off the rear bodywork (CBS), the little plastic locators on each side broke (yes I was cautious, but not cautious enough I guess)... perhaps I'll make new ones out of nylon. The bolt on the passengers ahead of the rear wheel was badly seized, the captured nut that was welded to the bodywork torqued off (there's always one isn't there?). I used the Dremel, cut it and job done, just need a new bolt. Removed the rear crash bar (CMS) and found that the aluminium spacer plates had electrolysed against the steel sub-frame leaving the subframe full of Aluminium oxide. Aparently the CMS is supposed to have foam rubber covers over each end, these were nowhere to be found, as a result the CMS was chock-full of very fine dust/dirt. Pics of the Aluminium oxide were uploaded to the technical photos forum. Removed the muffler/silencer/catalytic converter. It's really sooty back there as the muffler had split along the bottom seam and was sooting up the rear valence.

[MikeT 744]

I've never seen a cover over the bumper extrusion on any 450 and I've looked at tens of them.

[bilgladstone 13]

Those little plastic "locator" buttons are a pain the the posterior! Broke two myself last week. You can buy a bag of them from MB pretty cheaply. If you take off the rear panel very often, it is almost inevitable that one or two will break, especially as the plastic they're made of gets brittle over time. I think I saw a post where someone drilled a screw through the center after pressing them in to make them more secure...Regarding the crash bar mounting plate, after you get it cleaned up, coat the mating surfaces with alumslip - or even copaslip as a true sacrificial medium.Bil

Edited August 25, 2012 by bilgladstone

[stickman007 309]

Installed single din DVD deck

[bilgladstone 13]

Nice! Does the display fold away when not in use? I'd be afraid of B&E theft!Bil

[stickman007 309]

Yup! Sure does...can't seem to find a local place that sells the fascia plate. Had to hack up the old stereo.

[bilgladstone 13]

For others who may be looking, single DIN fascia available here: CLICKY

Bil

[Bessy 16]

Did the Igniton Free window mod, and added an AUX-IN to the stock Grundig Stereo (bought pin connectors $1.36, and female 3.5mm input $6.99 in a two pack)If anyone is interested I could use my leftover parts and put together an AUX-IN for someone for a very small fee.

[sbungay 0]

I've never seen a cover over the bumper extrusion on any 450 and I've looked at tens of them.

Saw them referenced in WIS, did not see them on my smart. Perhaps they were removed at Halifax when the TC mods were being made?

[sbungay 0]

Those little plastic "locator" buttons are a pain the the posterior! Broke two myself last week. You can buy a bag of them from MB pretty cheaply. If you take off the rear panel very often, it is almost inevitable that one or two will break, especially as the plastic they're made of gets brittle over time. I think I saw a post where someone drilled a screw through the center after pressing them in to make them more secure...Regarding the crash bar mounting plate, after you get it cleaned up, coat the mating surfaces with alumslip - or even copaslip as a true sacrificial medium.Bil

I'm going to either purchase or make new spacer plates. >SNIP< Edited to take off-topic question to Technical Discussion. Edited August 26, 2012 by sbungay

[strawboss 5]

I repaired the license plate lights a few weeks ago, one anyway.....a new festoon bulb in a corroded socket,the other one was rusted to nothing.

The lens covers were busted too but salvageable so went on ebay and bought these http://www.buy141.com/images/product/58/me...e-492b-3219.jpg they cost 4 bucks a pair with free shipping.

Epoxied them into the lenses,super bright watertight and will probably outlast my wee car!

Edited August 28, 2012 by strawboss

[Bessy 16]

Oh yeah, recently I fixed my lisence plate lights too...they were both hanging by the wires, clips broken. So I drilled some 1/8 holes, one in each light and used pop rivets to hold them in

[strawboss 5]

Yeah I wasn't as brave as that, I drilled the holes too but used sheet metal screws instead.The leds have a whiter light,they look neat!

[sbungay 0]

Disconnected the battery, removed the seats and the seat console. Cleaned up the interior (found lots of lost change ), removed the heavy rust scale off the exhaust manifold and turbo charger. Cleaned the soot (from cracked muffler/silencer) off the suspension components. Tagged and bagged all the nuts, bolts, and seat consoles.The engine work takes priority but I will be needing new carpet. Does anybody know what MB charges? Is there an after-market carpet kit available? I also will also be needing new seat upholstery (drivers seat), just the basic grey.

Edited August 30, 2012 by sbungay

[sbungay 0]

Not much done today. Removed the inner wheel-well liner on the drivers side and cleaned up the sub-frame assembly. There was a great deal of fine road dust packed fairly solidly into every nook and cranny. Lots of rust starting to form on this rather heavy piece of metal too. I can see that once the dirt gets packed in any driving in wet weather would make up a nice salty mud sitting on the steel. Using a paint-brush and a vacuum cleaner with crevice tool as much of the fine dust was removed as possible, I'll get the rest later when the whole assembly is removed from the car.

[Norm Roy 0]

Replaced left front coil with a used one from Flying Tiger. Followed directions from Kane, pretty straightforward if not time consuming.Coil was broken half coil in from bottom. Hope this lasts for a while. Car has less than 47000 km. 2006 Pure.Norm

[WudzRydr 0]

Had both rear wheel bearings replaced under warranty.

[bilgladstone 13]

Strictly speaking, not today as I did this a few weeks ago but just got around to taking pictures this evening.

Replaced the OE plate lights with a 12" strip (2x6") of LEDs. Very bright - gives enough light for when hooking up trailer after dark. The LED strips are mounted behind a piece of 1/2x1/2 aluminum angle that is painted black, so no glare for cars following behind. Apologies for my shaky pictures click through this one to see two more.

Note the bright white HID headlight beams more evident in images 1 & 3.

B Edited September 2, 2012 by bilgladstone

[sbungay 0]

Removed under-body panels. This was interesting as it appears the dealers who have been servicing the car have been using whatever kind of screws they can lay their hands on when they were putting them back on. There are Philips head screws, hex head 8mm body bolts (these are plentiful and appear to be OEM), 6mm hex head bolts and even one 7mm. The Philips head screws were really out of place though and they looked like they belonged in a carpenters shop, not a mechanics garage. After cleaning up the dirt and debris from the panels I put them aside and spent some time examining the under-body, the routing of the brake lines and wires for the rear ABS/ESP sensors, the A/C lines and their mounts to the floor (one of which was repaired under warranty years ago as it had broken free). The brake booster unit and the routing of it's vacuum line, and the extent of the rust damage to the tridion, which while not too severe does need to be removed and the steel protected. Stay tuned.

Edited September 3, 2012 by sbungay

[MikeT 744]

Did you take any photos with the plastic off?I've had them off my white car once (it's mint) and the green car once (damned near to mint).For my part I cleaned out the garage this weekend and now the three cars in the 1.5 car garage have a bit more wiggle room.