Guinness

What Did You Do To Your Smart Today?

4,926 posts in this topic

Nice day here in Surrey,time for my third oil change since I have owned my used 2005 pulse.Using an extractor pump purchased at princess auto,I push down on the plunger and oil starts gushing out through the top of the handle,big mess,and I make a bigger mess trying to figure out whats wrong.I went inside and googled to see if I can find the problem and see that this happened to someone else.They contacted someone (distributor?) and they where told that the seals can fail with synthetic oil??I didn't have the receipt but princess auto asks for your phone number when you make a purchase so it was on file,whew!The one I had was marked up to 7.8L,I think.I traded up to a 9.5L oval shaped one for an extra $20 hoping for better luck.To dark to try again by the time I got home but thankfully we are having some nice weather here on the wet coast so I will try again tomorrow :)

Edited by 6strings

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Nasty, my Pela pump has worked well about 30 times so far.

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explain. Are you just a pyromaniac, or....?

Lol Mike.I bought this car a week ago with the dreaded p0380 code and have tried everything ive read on this forum as well as help from dmoonen and so far to no avail!My job for today is to pull apart all wiring harnesses and check each wire for corrosion. I love the car; it gets great milage, but i cant get it e-tested with this code coming up. Also like others, when i delete the code it just comes right back.so after today if i have no luck i might just invite everyone out to my place to roast some marshmallows over a not so "smart" fire!!!

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Lol Mike.I bought this car a week ago with the dreaded p0380 code and have tried everything ive read on this forum as well as help from dmoonen and so far to no avail!My job for today is to pull apart all wiring harnesses and check each wire for corrosion. I love the car; it gets great milage, but i cant get it e-tested with this code coming up. Also like others, when i delete the code it just comes right back.so after today if i have no luck i might just invite everyone out to my place to roast some marshmallows over a not so "smart" fire!!!

I would try some booster cables & clip one or both conductors to a good metal ground on the engine then find or make a good metal ground on the body (the edge of the motor hatch opening?) & clip the other(s) to that.What we are trying to do is make darned sure the ground circuit is good, before getting into the tedious job of checking plugs.Just my two cents worth....Edited to add: you may have to drive it for 15/30 minutes or so with the hatch cover off so I would open both windows as much as the outside temp will allow.... Edited by strawboss

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By plugs Ratslyn is meaning the SAM connection, he texted me a photo and the pug had three contacts (Headlight, low light, fuel pump) was burnt out and it seems the last owner did some "custom" wiring trying to fix the problem. post-12052-1389893050_thumb.jpgHope you don't mind me posting the photo Ron

Edited by dmoonen

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By plugs Ratslyn is meaning the SAM connection, he texted me a photo and the pug had three contacts (Headlight, low light, fuel pump) was burnt out and it seems the last owner did some "custom" wiring trying to fix the problem. post-12052-1389893050_thumb.jpgHope you don't mind me posting the photo Ron

Oh, I thought he meant the plugs on the engine harness because that jived with my experience with the trouble code p0380, the dealer blamed a faulty engine wire harness.....it turned out to be that the engine ground wire was loose

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By plugs Ratslyn is meaning the SAM connection, he texted me a photo and the pug had three contacts (Headlight, low light, fuel pump) was burnt out and it seems the last owner did some "custom" wiring trying to fix the problem. post-12052-1389893050_thumb.jpgHope you don't mind me posting the photo Ron

Hi. No I don't mind at all. So far this morning I've removed both seats the whole center console and the carpet. I've found no signs of corrosion or heated/ did colored wiring. I've dropped the Sam to inspect for damage the and have found none. I think I have the problem narrowed down to no signal to the glow plugs in the "pre heat" stage. The ground wire that comes from under the engine cover at the back was pretty iffy looking as it was discolored and looks as if it has been heated. The actual wires are brital. So I have a new ground cable running from there to a valve cover bolt just to test it. Still having same problem. The beru plugs I took out tested fine but I replaced them with new ones. I only have power to the glow plug controller big red wire. All others show no sign of power with key on or off. I checked the connector in the Sam that the schematics say runs the glow plug controler and found no signs of overheating or Moisture there either. Anyone have any other ideas?I have an issue with my lights still and the glowplug controllers "pre glow" cycle requires a certain amout of voltage. Is there a chance that when the key is turned to the on position that maybe the draw is to much from the headlight motors and it's tell the Sam not to send the signal to start pre glow?Just a thought, but I'm getting desperate lol

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I would guess a break in one or more wires in the engine harness or a faulty glow plug controller, The dealer charged me $61 for a electrical diagnostic, does that mean they hook it up to their star machine?

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The dealer charged me $61 for a electrical diagnostic, does that mean they hook it up to their star machine?

Sounds like half an hour of labour to me, which I think is usually what they charge for a readout of error codes with the star machine.

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Heard a bit of scraping under the car this morning. Checked when parked and found the replacement intercooler scoup rightside had come undone.Jacked up and removed the old pop rivet, verified the holes as good and replaced the pop rivet with a new one.Guess all the deep snow had caused the rivet to pull out. All better, wish it was not -14c when I did it outside :thumbsup_still:

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Inter cooler scoop is also held in place with two steel "C" clamps, one at each side. Both are essential but tricky to fit. Right hand side "C" clamp is almost impossible to fit unless subframe is lowered. The plastic rivet is not particularly good. I intend to modify mine in the near future and replace this plastic rivet with a stainless steel bolt and large stainless steel washer.

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That is exactly what I did before last winter, and just before this winter I noticed hat the fourth scoop was broken off. I'm done.

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This morning, the starter wouldnt work. With the help of my neighbor, we push started it. I then drove to work to perform repairs.As expected, the celenoid spade connector was loose with corrosion. A cleaning and connector repair fixed the start issue. While the engine was dropped, I took the intercooler off for cleaning and shroud trimming. I then refilled the cooling system with fresh L/L A/F.

post-13038-1390096409_thumb.jpg

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I did the plastic jug Intercooler scoop mod on my winter smart, I copied how I belive Glenn did it on the Brabus. I've been belly flopping in snow and into snow drifts all winter and the thing still lives.

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Figured it was time fora little sound upgrade. :D

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Haven't had a chance to play with the settings yet but it already sounds 1000x better than the stock radio. :D

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Also while I was at the shop today I finished up some work I've been doing to the dirtbike trailer that I tow with the smart.

Before:

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I built a set of wheel chocks out of aluminum. All I have to do now is roll the bike into the chock and it locks into place upright. A couple quick tiedowns and I'm heading down the road. 5 minutes with a wrench changes the chocks around so you can carry 1 bike in the center instead of 1 on each side like in the pic. Sure beats the the process I had to go through to tie them down before.

I also made 2 gas can holders so now all I have to do is drop the can in and put a bungee over it. The two ammo cans on the other side I use to hold all the straps and bungees needed to tie all my gear down. I also added larger wheels and tires to level the trailer out and slow the bearings down on the highway.

This should save me a lot of time at the races next season. :D

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Met up with Jason (new member) and we were discussing different event ideas and locations that are more centralized for other members so we can get a good out come. Went to his place with my star machine and read off some codes and did a clutch teach in for him.Went back to the shop did an oil change on the winter smart, truck, mercedes 300e and the TT Roadster. Kinda got into some drinks and booked a flight to the Dominican for tuesday and apperently a five star resort package with the girl friend to cuba next month. . I need to stop drinking while on the computer because this is getting out of hand. Luckily my drunk self used my buisness points card and got everything for free :thumbsup_still:

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Thanks. I haven't beefed the suspension up. The trailer is evenly weighted and when loaded with 1 bike I have just over 50lbs tongue weight. It is a lot lighter than it looks. I can pick up the trailer myself when there is one bike on it. Honestly with the remap you can barely tell it's back there. I rarely have to downshift on a hill and have lots of braking power in reserve.

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That's good, softer suspension may be better with lower tonque weight. If it had more weight you'd be bouncing like no tomorrow when you hit a bump. Good job on the trailer

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I wash and wax my 'baby' as well as cleaned the inside .... She is now nice and clean .... Guess what ... It is now raining again

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This AM I ran my son into Victoria and then came back solo, 3.9 L/100 km despite giving her some welly, then I had a nice wash session after it all.

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The 451 is at Victoria Star Motors for a new brake lamp switch. The switch is back ordered but they were able to find one at another dealership. smartmove worked well, except having to pay to not have my car taken to M-B London.No previous issue/warning that the switch was failing, unlike the 2 times it has failed in the 450. Rolling in a C250, I dislike them more everytime I have to drive one.

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