Guinness

What Did You Do To Your Smart Today?

4,982 posts in this topic

Remember that heat alone won't eliminate the moisture. You are adding warm dry air which absorbs some of the moisture and becomes warm wet air...now you need to evacuate the moist air....that means it's best to accompany the heat with a flow-through breeze in your car. (warm dry air flowing through the car not just around inside it)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally picked up my car this evening with two new front summer Contis and one new front sportline. Picked it up at 8:00 pm. The snow was beginning to fall heavily, so I tucked into my garage and finally swapped off the summers for the new Nokians.Holy frack, the car looks different with the meaty 185 Nokians on the front!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally picked up my car this evening with two new front summer Contis and one new front sportline. Picked it up at 8:00 pm. The snow was beginning to fall heavily, so I tucked into my garage and finally swapped off the summers for the new Nokians.Holy frack, the car looks different with the meaty 185 Nokians on the front!

you should take some picuters!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I raised my car's butt in the air tonight to repair the block heater cable. It was worse than I thought. The shield and insulation were gone, and two of the three conductors were worn right through. I wound up removing most of the remaining shield armour and insulation for about a foot from the connector, then cut out about three inches from the worn conductors. I soldered in three inch sections to the damaged wires, shrink-tubed them all, applied a liberal coating of liquid electrical tape, a layer of black vinyl tape, and then wrapped the whole thing with a couple of layers of Kevlar tape. When it came time to connect it back to the heater, I crawled under the engine and took a look at the faulty unit. I removed the clamp and cleaned, then placed it in a vise and bent it about 15 degrees to put more pressure on the heater which was very loose. I cleaned the element with an emery cloth. After reading all the previous posts asking about heat transfer paste, I realized that heat sink paste is pretty much the same as silver anti-seize -- it is rated stable to 600°C. I applied a generous amount all the way around and oozed it in place then cinched it down tight. There is no more play. I quick test shows it is drawing about 3.5 Amps, 420 W. Plugged in my timer set for tomorrow morning. If the house doesn't burn down, we'll know the repair worked!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I printed out a couple of brackets on with my MakerBot and installed a ScanGaugeII.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Might design new brackets though, which would go inside of the speedo housing, rather than hooking over the top of it as these ones do.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I picked Baby up from the shop this morning. She has new brakes, a new battery, B service, block heater line firmly in place - I think we're ready for winter so I hope the last couple of days weren't IT. The bank account is almost toast! :thumbsup_still: Ish.Is this getting to be a theme? I picked Baby up from the body shop this afternoon. Everyone was right - the damage rubbed out and she looks just like new. I'm a happy camper. :thumbsup_anim: Ish.

Edited by ishkabibble

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Diagnosed a leak in the soft top of Snowball. Both sides have a 2-3 mm gap at the upper leading edge of the B-pillar where the soft top meets the roof bar. The gap is visible when shining a flashlight through from the inside qand standing outside. Water running off the top goes right over it.I noticed the leak after the car sat in the rain today and I put on a WET driver's seatbelt!The other cabrio doesn't do this so maybe I will get a new rear softtop for the car under warranty, I can hope at least.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I rescued a friend in need last night... They were stuck so I swang by in my Smart to pick them up and get them to work... It was Me and SMARTIE to the rescued... I almost put a cape on the back of Smartie! :superman:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did a ''B'' on a smart that was 1 1/2 yrs and 12,000kms from the last service.The front inner brake pads disintegrated when I tried to remove them. Luckily it had oil on the dip stick.This smart has only 39,000 kms but the owners is cheaping out on the maintenance. Pity!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did a ''B'' on a smart that was 1 1/2 yrs and 12,000kms from the last service.The front inner brake pads disintegrated when I tried to remove them. Luckily it had oil on the dip stick.This smart has only 39,000 kms but the owners is cheaping out on the maintenance. Pity!

Maybe we should have a database of abused smarts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Went to measure up how to put a CTEK into the battery well and found more moisture under the carpet. Arrgh. The car has been sitting inside under a cover and hasn't been wet for a month now. Now it is too cold to use a hose to see if it is leaking from under the dash. Original windshield and seals.Got the snows on, but I may not take it out on any snowy days.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found a flat tire on my smart today!I had just driven down an alley to look at a house for sale,then i drove to the drug store to buy stamps.When i went out to my car, i noticed the flat tire.I thought it may have ben a slow leak,that had gone unnoticed,as the car had been driving fine.The dealer had filled these tires with nitrogen.Not wanting to use the 'tire goop',and it was minus 25 or so,i decided to drive it the rest of the way home.(about 6 or 7 blocks.)(I should have just tried using the car's little compressor.)When i got it home,i used the air tank and filled up the tire.It seemed to be holding it's preasure,so i drove it to the dealer.Unfortunately the inside of the tire has been damaged,and it had two screws in it,also!Tomorrow it gets replaced.They have only one new winter tire like it left!They are also going to investigate a mettalic 'rattling sound' coming from the front of the car. Ball joint? Or maybe air conditioning line clip?This is gonna cost me!!

Edited by PrairieBoy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I drove the green smart to work and Mill Bay and back again. I filled the tank at 178,455 km. I don't get to drive her much any more. By the time she's six years in our possession in a few weeks, the km should be up to 180,000 km, an even 30K km per year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got my car back from the dealer today. It turned out better than i thought it would.They picked me up in a new all wheel drive Porche sports car(!!) for a ride back to the dealer!!The young girl 'Driver' said: "It's their demo car".She said it's surprisingly good in the winter.Talk about good service from Eurotrend Fine Cars!. They did have to replace the rear tire.The total cost was $183.28.The Nitrogen was free.As far as the 'metalic rattle sound' from the front of the car: They said they looked at everything,including the ball joints,air conditioning line clips,etc,and couldn't find anything wrong with the car.They drove the car 'cold' and warmed up during their checks.It was really nice of them NOT to bill me for this service check either,after i told them i'm layed off from my job right now!The fact that i've bought four smart cars from them probably doesn't hurt,either.The drive home was free of any 'metalic rattles'.I wonder what it was?

Edited by PrairieBoy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Diagnosed a leak in the soft top of Snowball. Both sides have a 2-3 mm gap at the upper leading edge of the B-pillar where the soft top meets the roof bar. The gap is visible when shining a flashlight through from the inside qand standing outside. Water running off the top goes right over it.I noticed the leak after the car sat in the rain today and I put on a WET driver's seatbelt!The other cabrio doesn't do this so maybe I will get a new rear softtop for the car under warranty, I can hope at least.

I get no water ingress, but I have a similar gap at the last fold, and the top looks loose there. However, the belts are almost drum-tight (I adjust every spring and fall). Perhaps I should do the under-spoiler adjustment now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I raised my car's butt in the air tonight to repair the block heater cable. It was worse than I thought. The shield and insulation were gone, and two of the three conductors were worn right through. I wound up removing most of the remaining shield armour and insulation for about a foot from the connector, then cut out about three inches from the worn conductors. I soldered in three inch sections to the damaged wires, shrink-tubed them all, applied a liberal coating of liquid electrical tape, a layer of black vinyl tape, and then wrapped the whole thing with a couple of layers of Kevlar tape. When it came time to connect it back to the heater, I crawled under the engine and took a look at the faulty unit. I removed the clamp and cleaned, then placed it in a vise and bent it about 15 degrees to put more pressure on the heater which was very loose. I cleaned the element with an emery cloth. After reading all the previous posts asking about heat transfer paste, I realized that heat sink paste is pretty much the same as silver anti-seize -- it is rated stable to 600°C. I applied a generous amount all the way around and oozed it in place then cinched it down tight. There is no more play. I quick test shows it is drawing about 3.5 Amps, 420 W. Plugged in my timer set for tomorrow morning. If the house doesn't burn down, we'll know the repair worked!

Plugged in the car today for the first time since "adjusting" the block heater. Wow! I don't think it ever worked before now (loose, no heat sink goop). The temperature in the garage was 10° when I plugged in. Within a couple of minutes I heard some sizzling and popping, likely some moisture in the silver paste cooking out. I looked for sparks and flames, just to be sure. ;) I unplugged after half an hour -- 30 minutes -- and started up. Coolant temperature was 14°, and I headed out into the cold. Ambient air temperature was -14° with some wind. Within a kilometer, or before I left the neighbourhood, the first blob lit up, reaching 50° before I hit the main road. That only usually happens in summer, and never happened in winter even with the car plugged in for two hours! It went all the way to 76° on my short, congested commute.Supposed to be a low of -16 in the morning and I'll be on the road by 7:00 am; we'll see what happens after it has been plugged in for 90 minutes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Perhaps I should do the under-spoiler adjustment now.

Please explain and demonstrate? I think the straps that are not under the spoiler (which you referred to) only deal with the sunroof component. I would like to learn about the adjustments to the rear part of the top. Maybe if it's easy, I could avoid taking the car to TPM on the 30th, as is scheduled right now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I adjust the straps on each side of the roof as you do, by retracting the roof slightly to slacken them and then adjusting the cam-locks. Are you referring to the rear "lift-back" portion? I am unaware of an adjustment there. If you are indeed referring to the "top" (the folding section ahead of the spoiler), then an alternate adjustment is explained here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, I wonder if that would snug the back part of the soft top any more tightly against the B pillar/roof bars?Anyway I probably should let TPM have a go at it first, since it's under warranty...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Played with my Electrical and pulled apart some of my dash so that we could see why my dash lights stay on. (Kind of just want to leave the e.box off) but I don't think I can :angry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I solved that anoying rattle,that the dealer couldn't find!!After having the dealer replace a ruined tire,and try to find an annoying rattle from the front of the car,i picked up the car and drove it home. Luckily they only billed me for replacing the tire,as i'm layed off right now.Unfortunately this annoying rattle returned the next day. So i heated up the garage and tried my luck at finding the source,once again.After pushing and pullling on the plastic body panels with no sucess,i fired up the air compressor,and started to blow off any road junk(gravel /sand) from underneath the front of the car's suspension,etc. I grabbed the left front wheel rim,and also pushed and pulled on it. I thought i barely heard a 'mettalic rattle' again.So i jacked up the side of the car,and removed the wheel. I thought that maybe a pebble had gotten stuck underneath the rim,somehow. While looking at the brake components,i saw something that didn't look quite right.Behind the brake caliper,there are two spring clips holding in the brake pads. On one spring clip,BOTH ends were in behind the metal of the caliper,but on the other one ,one end of the sping clip was sticking outside of the metal caliper. When i pushed and pulled on the end of this clip,it rattled! And the brake pad seemed loose!I took a photo of this to the Mercedes-Benz dealer,and showed them it.The service desk guy,as well as a mechanic both agreed that this clip wasn't properly installed.As the dealer had told me this car had a bunch of stuff done on it only 1000 kilometers ago, (before i bought the car), i asked them if that service included any brake work. The asnswer was " Yes"! So i said: " I quess you guys made a mistake, so i won't have to pay for this repair".So they said to "Bring in your car and we'll fix it right away at no charge!!".post-6832-1292638562_thumb.jpg I replied 'Awseome!'.I'm so glad to have solved the very annoying rattle problem!!And it didn't cost me anything either!(See attached photo.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only cost was your confidence in the dealer's technicians' ability to do a very simple job!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

    Chatbox
    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More