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What Did You Do To Your Smart Today?

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So decided to put some more work into my C1...

Recharged the A/C - was weird as it never loss charge for the last 2 years and then all of a sudden, no A/C after sitting outside for 2 months. Previously it had always been in the garage while it sat over winter.

Thanks to @bmwmilos, no more knocking sound under high rpm hard acceleration! Resealled the HP fuel pump. No ripped orings noted, but they felt old and hard and most likely caused the internal leakage.

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I gave my Romie a dash cam up grade, The same brand name only went form 2mp to 8mp and now I can see around her on my iPhone when I'm not there. Still waiting for one more to show up, then she will be set. The old ones I plan on using them on my two other cars. 

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Noticed a wheel bearing squeak on the driver's front, so tomorrow I'll be either stealing a good one off the good car or installing a brand new one that would have been installed in good car. Seems installing the new one in good car and reusing the old good one in beater is the way to go.  Just need to see if I can balance the car on 3 jacks and do the work safely...Hmmm..?  I did a complete brake job on the wife's Honda CRV this morning....maybe leasing has it's merits...lol.

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Wheel bearings changed over and noticed my rock/dust shields are fubared, rusted through, time to take the best one and check the plates etc at the dollar store.....fingers crossed.
Again I'll complain about torx bolts...augh when rusted they are so difficult to get a good bite onto them.....nearly had to use the weld a nut to a bolt trick to get it to turn, but plenty of heat fixed it, just!  
No more squeaky wheel...lol.

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1 hour ago, Willys said:

 my rock/dust shields are fubared, rusted through

 

Just bought one at the dealer - $40.   Time to go the Tolsen plate route like you. Let us know what you find.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

11 minutes ago, smart142 said:

 

Just bought one at the dealer - $40.   Time to go the Tolsen plate route like you. Let us know what you find.

Hmmm....To tell you the truth, at $40 each, I could swallow that but I would strip and paint them with good rust paint, there is only two.  For the good car that is, the beater will get the plastic plates or what ever I find...lol. and yes I will report back.
Plus there was plenty of grease inside the bearings that were squeaking, it wasn't near the balls though. So it makes me wonder if on brand new ones maybe you need to smear enough grease deep into the balls, boy this sounds bad, lol, as to get the best life span from the bearing?  Then like in the old days, do regular maintenance to make sure they aren't drying out?  Plus I bet a coating of grease on the inside of that guard wouldn't be a bad idea either, just enough to help keep the moisture off it?

OH, I told the wife to look next time she is in the store for something and surprisingly she instantly said oven burner guards....she may have something there.

 

 

Edited by Willys

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Made and fitted new rear bump stops for my 2002 Smart Cabrio Cdi:

IMG_3374.JPG

 

Existing urethane rubber had disintegrated on left side (top pancake shaped piece), come loose on right side (the piece cut in two halves) and was trapped inside spring.

I shaped new urethane rubber of similar Shore A hardness with an angle grinder fitted with coarse sanding disc.  Bonded finished rubber urethane pieces to pressed steel bases with Sikaflex 221.

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Today I have assisted my friend David who recently acquired a 451 cabrio. I borrowed the car for nearly a week last month, and noted it was time for a tranny fluid change and likely an oil change. About 75,000 kms and not quite running 100%,,,,

 

Was not wrong. We changed out the oil with Mobil 1 0w40, an OEM filter and new OEM drain plug, and changed out the tranny fluid with Redline MT90 GL4. Drives a lot better!!

 

Had to put the car on ramps t be able to get enough clearance to un-torque the drain plug which was on way too tight..... everything looked old and really dirty.... even ran some extra oil through to clean out a bit more junk.... will do the next change in 6,000 kms and stay on top of it.

 

These cars are pretty resilient if you treat them right. Not as picky as a cdi.

 

David used to own the canada1 coupe - which he had done a great job looking after for the time he had it.

 

I have seen a few interesting smart listed for sale, but haven't pulled the trigger yet. We are VERY happy with the eGolf, nearly 9,000 kms. Have taken it to Christina Lake and back. I am planning on getting the timing belt done in my new-to-me 98 4Runner, which relaced the RHD Skyline which someone opted to pay me a fair price for.... I can't say I miss Suzuki at this point, the 4Runner will do fine.

 

Sorry to not be here so often, but if anyone needs assistance, just PM or send an e-mail if you have mine..... I'll usually respond in under 12 hours.

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Car drives remarkably better,,,, we both drove it individually, I went a second time....  night and day difference in shifting and the engine itself sounds better

 

This has sort of always been noted on smarts from my experience of several hundred thousand kms over 15 years, but this car really benefitted

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On 7/26/2020 at 7:02 PM, Willys said:

Again I'll complain about torx bolts...augh when rusted they are so difficult to get a good bite onto them

 

 

i part out a lot of cars  ..these sockets have saved me quite a few times...and they are fairly cheap when you catch them on sale 

 

they  also have a larger set that is great for using on locking wheel nuts when the key is broken or missing...cant remember using them on torx yet ..but they would be the first thing i reach for if need be..

 

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-3-8-in-drive-impact-bolt-remover-set-13-pc-0581207p.html

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8 hours ago, LooseLugNuts said:

 

 

i part out a lot of cars  ..these sockets have saved me quite a few times...and they are fairly cheap when you catch them on sale 

 

they  also have a larger set that is great for using on locking wheel nuts when the key is broken or missing...cant remember using them on torx yet ..but they would be the first thing i reach for if need be..

 

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-3-8-in-drive-impact-bolt-remover-set-13-pc-0581207p.html

I have looked  at these before, but wouldn't spend full pop on them.  That's an acceptable price imho, so it'll be a side trip today to pick one up...thanks.

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For wheel locks with a worn out or missing key, I just buy a cheap one size larger socket at Princess auto, bang it on, and voila... I could use a vice I suppose to then re-free the cheap socket, but it happens not too often, so I just toss it all in the scrap bin.... 

6 pointers are cheap and do the trick...

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1 hour ago, smartzuuk said:

For wheel locks with a worn out or missing key, I just buy a cheap one size larger socket at Princess auto, bang it on, and voila... I could use a vice I suppose to then re-free the cheap socket, but it happens not too often, so I just toss it all in the scrap bin.... 

6 pointers are cheap and do the trick...

Tried that, didn't work....they were all put on using a 3 foot breaker bar added to the full length usual wrench....as he had someone loosen all the other nuts before realizing they had a good quality set of locking nuts....well maybe not good quality as the key stripped as I tried to undo them normally.

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OK, well that is operator error for sure! Idiotic over-torqueing stuff....

 

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11 minutes ago, smartzuuk said:

OK, well that is operator error for sure! Idiotic over-torqueing stuff....

 

Yes my brother hasn't a mechanical bone in his body...lol.   He didn't see the need to acquire this knowledge when he could employ one of us to do the dirty work for him.....white collar crowd...lol

 

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Can you tell if the oil needs to be changed just by looking at the dipstick? I’m getting a 2011 and it supposedly had an oil change in July but I’m not sure. Should I get another drain plug for the next oil change? Also, I’m in Hawaii and read so much different things on what oil to use it’s making me dizzy? Is this the right one I need to go with? Mobil 1 synthetic SAE 5W/30?  Thank you. 

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1 hour ago, Pennyr said:

 


Can you tell if the oil needs to be changed just by looking at the dipstick? I’m getting a 2011 and it supposedly had an oil change in July but I’m not sure. Should I get another drain plug for the next oil change? Also, I’m in Hawaii and read so much different things on what oil to use it’s making me dizzy? Is this the right one I need to go with? Mobil 1 synthetic SAE 5W/30?  Thank you. 

 

Checking the oil level is all the dipstick should be for, but if, when checking it, you can see little flakes of metal in it, you've got trouble.  As long as the level is where it should be on the dipstick ( DO NOT OVERFILL ), all should be good.

The oil you have listed looks to be the right one for your car.

If the car "supposedly" had a recent oil change, but there is no paperwork to prove it, I would suggest getting one done just to be on the safe side unless the oil is clean.

As for the drain plug... if the threads are OK, then all you should need to do is replace the compression washer ... not the whole plug.   This portion needs to be verified by someone who actually owns a 451 since I am using my knowledge from days gone by about the compression washer.  It may or may not hold true for the 451.

If you can find a reliable mechanic who knows about smart cars then I would do my business with them instead of Mercedes.  Mercedes is very expensive and tend to throw parts at a car until an issue is sorted out, instead of actually repairing the problem by properly diagnosing the problem.

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Thank you so much for the advise! As soon as I get the vehicle I am going to check this out first thing! No paperwork on a recent oil change just word of mouth. I do know the engine is very dusty as I was looking for obvious leaks which thankfully I didn’t see! 

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The 451 has a huge copper washer that is good for many changes and doesn't need replacing each time. The problem with some 451 is that the change interval in the book is 15,000 kms, which honestly is too long.... and then other issues are, was the correct spec oil used, and was it overfilled.... these are all potential contributing issues to these otherwise pretty reliable engines. smaert cars let you know after an oil change that they are happy, they sound and respond so much better....

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On 8/15/2020 at 0:27 PM, Pennyr said:

 


Can you tell if the oil needs to be changed just by looking at the dipstick? 

 

On the 451, if it looks noticeably dark, change it... if it's really dark, change it right away...

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I Thank you so much guys! I will check the oil as soon as I get her tomorrow. I want it to last awhile so the basic maintenance I can do I will. I ordered an extra drain plug and washers today so I’m not sure when they’ll get to me so I’m hoping if I do change the oil everything looks good on the plug and washer! How often should I be doing oil changes? On my Tacoma it’s done every 5k miles. Here she is at the shipping dock ready to get here, finally!! 😠

 

 

smart flip.jpg

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Flipped your photo for you :)

 

I believe the smart manual recommends every 10,000 km, but I would cut that down to 8,000.  Oil is cheap .. engines are not :)

 

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Changed the thermostat yesterday.  Actually I bought lunch and Willys got his hands dirty.

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Thanks for the grub, it was nice but felt very strange eating out at a resterant's patio after not doing so for so long!!!   Glad to help.   Now you won't freeze next winter...lol

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Well....went for a drive to the Big Apple just east of Couburg today, mostly back road 2 lane then a trip on the 401.....as I came up to speed on the 401 at maybe 100 I started hearing this vibrating buzzing sound from the upper left side of the roof of corner back window...Hmmmmm....then it went away...!   After getting to the Big Apple, I looked for anything that had come loose but found nothing that would make this noise.  I left there and then went to a buddies house north of Couburg and it started it again then again went away. It sounded like a wheel bearing but it didn't react the same when you load and unload the wheel, so decided it was that. I stopped for supper and then decided to look underneath.....maybe the transmission was dry and red hot..nope? Thinking rear output shaft bearings???  Nope..  But after looking further it became obvious.....I blew my muffler apart...!!!!!   Not the welded up section but further away from it....!  It's blowing against the aluminium aftermarket piece between the rear fenders. I think the sound then travels up the body work and I hear it in the top left corner..?

So, now I am thinking of making my own muffler if possible and seeing what it sounds like. After taking the baffles out of the stock muffler and using them as a guide to figure out what this car likes or wants..? 

I have a Glass Pac muffler someone made to fit, so will install that first just to see what they sound like at all driving RPMs as I drive.....might be easier to simply copy that design?  But the owner of it traded it for a stock can I welded up and he was much happier  using that than his home made unit.  My issue is I do not have a good muffler ready or can find one other than the near new one on the good car. I do not want to start stripping good parts off it to just keep the beater running.  That is the wrong direction...lol.

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