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What Did You Do To Your Smart Today?

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Well, today I am buying two completely different exhausts to modify to see how they sound and perform and if they can be made to fit in the space we have.  All cheap as chips off Kijiji  so no real money being wasted.  One is a brand new import Magna Flow can and the other is a complete system from a 1000rr Honda......You never know, I may just shelve them both but until I get them in my hands and see, I'll never know? It'll also stop the thought pattern of making a system and go back to repairing them until there is nothing left to repair.  I had thought about removing just the baffles from the old exhaust and simply re-wrapping it with thicker material again just to see.   Then i started to search already made exhaust to fit the space, needing simple modifications to fit our engine.  Tomorrow I'll see what I have and how it compares if the rain will stop long enough to stay dry.....OR, will I use summer car as the fitment jig.....damn sounds logical.....augh!  The slippery slope begins.....

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Just finished replacing the left side transmission out put seal and replacing the muffler.  I had forgotten what a bitch getting the shafts out was....unless you remove far more bolts than I initially tried....lol.   The muffler is split almost in half due to not being clamped down solidly to the centre brace on the transmission. I had beaten the clamp out and couldn't rebend the tab back to hold it solid. Yes it had a mickey mouse half assed attempt at it and even used mechanic's wire to try and keep things tight, but it vibrated loose.  This muffler was the first one I re-welded and thought it best to remove band clamp. WRONG....better to do what I have been doing ever since this one when re-welding them. All of the welds are still intact so that is one great sign after 2 years of use. So no worries about re-welding exhaust cans imho.


I also picked up those two exhausts off Kijiji last night.  Both are like new so no corrosion on either so reworking them shouldn't be difficult, fingers crossed.  I really like the Honda 1000rr system the most. It's header pipes are the same size of our main in-put pipe from the exhaust manifold into the muffler, so I intend to used all those bends to create a well fitting system hopefully.  The exit pipes from the Honda muffler are split, so maybe I can have a twin pipe exhaust sticking out from the back...lol.

The other muffler is a standard square semi glass pack style can with a twist or elbow internally to help slow the sound down...?  I have watched how they are made and why, so understand what it is......possibly way too loud...lol.  This can will also take plenty of pipe work so to speak over the Honda  I think.?  So I'm more interested in the Honda to work with it first. 
 

It should be interesting.....it also may be a total waste of time, but time is free....and it keeps the mind active.

 

OH, and the transmission oil level was down a fair way, it's back to where it should be now.  I hope I caught it soon enough.  I hate to think if it's a bearing in the transmission that was making that whirring sound.  Hmmmm...?

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The turbo on my winter beater, 'Bruised", got changed yesterday.  .212,xxx kms on it.  .Running MUCH better now.  . Many thanks to Uncle Glenn.

 

On a side note, I had my muffler repaired through Glenn in 2014.  .While changing the turbo, I noticed that it was still working perfectly with no leaks.

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Finally it has an exhaust so time is getting close to a start up.......it's made from a Honda 1000rr stock exhaust system.  Time will tell if it's good enough to work as good as the stock system. At least it's completely rust free. Here's some pics to show it from all angles and also how it's not the lowest part of the vehicle.  I did install the rear bumper and body work to make sure it all fits correctly.

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Tomorrow's job is to start my own shop manual to deal with all things electrical........hooked up STAR and while reteaching transmission I encountered Fatal Fault......so starts the next chapter.....will it be an easy fix or an all out war....lol

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Don't you need some flex in the muffler set-up? That's why the Brabus were not particularly reliable....

Your set-up there looks really "solid"....

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6 hours ago, smartzuuk said:

Don't you need some flex in the muffler set-up? That's why the Brabus were not particularly reliable....

Your set-up there looks really "solid"....

Look at the stock CDI muffler, it's a solid construction unit. I think it was just the gas models that used the flex between engine and muffler.  This muffler is attached in two locations to the whole engine transmission unit. Exhaust manifold and the main bracket off of the lower differential housing. It can't vibrate, it follows the engine's movements. I made a new thicker lower bracket and reinforced it using the Honda's stock mounting attachment points. Upper and lower on the muffler. The whole unit is probably half the weight of a stock muffler. I haven't started the engine yet to hear it so can't comment on how quiet or loud it is. I'm in no rush as I keep finding other little projects that need doing that pull me off the car.  I also have to sort out the 3 bars of death that showed up when I tried to teach in the actuators and transmission. The driveshafts were stuck which tripped the 3 bars I think as they are free wheeling now.  As I said I am busy doing other things and this can wait. I do have a second wiring harness all laid out ready to trace where which SAM and ECU pin outs connect to for future knowledge. As for the muffler I think it'll be quiet as you can almost run without one in the lower RPM ranges. I very rarely climb above 3500 RPMs.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Had a new turbo and manifold co e in for my 450 today! Super stoked to get this thing installed, as the turbine is really starting to go on the current one. 

 

Also made a block off plate for the turbo to EGR port out if 3mm stainless 316 material, fun little project to work on for my lunch break and it was free as the stainless was in the scrap bin. One quick question regarding my new shim, will this be thick enough to use as a cap, or am I better off hacking the flange off the line and using this newly made plate as a shim instead? 

 

Got a fun project to do this weekend! 

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Edited by Purplesmart

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Bolt it down and move on....perfect!

 

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Well on Monday Nov 2/2020 we drove 900km to Lloydminister Alberta then Nov 3/2020 we drove 300km more through Edmonton to a rural area with the smart car in tow and dropped it off for a winter holiday at Stickman007’s place to work his magic on it. Unfortunately we only got to visit and meet for about an hour in person with the Covid and all and we did a fast turnaround and travelled back to Lloydminister then rested a day then back to Manitoba We are getting the works done on it by the master mechanic! Looking forward to next spring! Thank you stickman007 for taking this on.

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Decided to go with a bigger plate for the block off. Went and manufactured a 3/8 stainless 316 grade piece out of some scrap at work, got a new gasket from MB, and bolted it all together. It fits perfect! Now waiting on other things regarding this install (oil feed and drain lines, manifold studs, etc.) before throwing this thing in the car, can't wait to tackle this project as well as the full EGR delete! Such a fun little car to tinker with, excited to see what difference all this makes

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Another little project out of the way, huge thanks to stickman007 for the thread on creating the EGR bypass pipe and sharing the method for beading the pipe. Super easy project, got the vice grips free with Canadian Tire money, and the pipe and exhaust clamp were super cheap. Now for a little paint, and I am just that much closer to tackling the project as a whole. 

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That works slick eh......he showed me the same thing.   Excellent...!   

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Who could have guessed that while approaching mid-November, we would be looking at +23 degree weather.  Time for one last blast in the convertible before the winter-beater takes over.  

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Snow storm out here! Wish I had a picture, but I was white-knuckle driving all the way from Jasper to Radium today....plowed snow all the way with my Jetta!

 

I didn’t have time to put the Canada1 in the garage...will have to dig it out when I get back home later this week!

 

Izzy

 

BTW ptooti‘s 450 is safely tucked in the garage

 

 

 

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Got the belt change out today, previous one was cracked and really worn. Older cars are sooooo fun to work on, especially when bolts snap...😒. Ended up just using a ratchets and prayed the alternator to where it was sitting before, can twist the belt a quarter turn with decent force so figure it should do until I get a new bolt for the alternator and set the belt proper..  

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What torque was it at when it snapped...?   Hmmmm....that is your torque wrench I see ...isn't it...?

Time to weld a big assed nut to that damned torx crap...lol.

I hate it when this happens.......lol.     But...far better when it happens to other people...lol.   Sorry.....couldn't help myself.

 

I also can't believe how clean and new looking that cracked belt is....damn!   Amazing.!!

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3 minutes ago, Willys said:

What torque was it at when it snapped...?   Hmmmm....that is your torque wrench I see ...isn't it...?

Time to weld a big assed nut to that damned torx crap...lol.

I hate it when this happens.......lol.     But...far better when it happens to other people...lol.   Sorry.....couldn't help myself.

 

I also can't believe how clean and new looking that cracked belt is....damn!   Amazing.!!

Was at 33ft/lbs (45NM) as per instructions on evilutions website. Didn't even get close to that torque before it snapped lol. 

 

That belt did look pretty good but one day I was under the car and saw the split as the belt was on the crankshaft pulley, belt looked kind of glazed on the ribs so decided to swap it out with a belt I've had in my toolbox for about 3 months now, been meaning to get around to it but seeing that crack made me get to it asap

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shop manual states 27.5 Nm which is 20.3 ft/lbs

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Oh, had no clue, went of what everyone says is a reputable source for info on these cars. At least I know for next time now Screenshot_20201111-151709_Chrome.jpg

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When I was rebuilding my engine I spent the funds on the German printed shop manual......it is very sporatic on info, as it is in German and difficult to translate for general things such as rebuilding so to speak, but does have torque setting for most things required.  Not sure if it's worth the money but better than no shop manual...imho.    I also use Evilution for most of my questions as they are far easier to understand....lol.    IMHO, that bolt only needs to be a squeak past snug tight.   I'll get blasted for saying so, but....to each their own.  IF you wish numbers for anything and I have them just ask, glad to help. But, I'm not putting out a list of torque settings as translating it all is painstaking for sure.!

IF yrou are experiencing ground crup around your alt. remove the  plastic guard and install a rubber shield as I did  as the stock guard I feel is far too close to the alt and gets plugged up and then can't allow cooling correctly, maybe?  I put up a picture of the rubber flap or guard I made in the Wiki section in the rebuild pics thread. If you are interested.

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i always just pried the alternator case with a prybar and tightened the nut when i thought belt tension felt ok

 

no fancy torque specs needed

 

never had problems 

 

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Finally got around to installing a radio in the car today. Got a Kenwood kdc-x300 deck installed. Owned the car since April this year and finally got tired of no music so it had to be done lol. Super simple and straightforward process, just hardwired in the harness for the aftermarket deck. Tried switching constant and switched wires at first as that's what I've read 99% of the time, radio worked, shut off the car, turned it back on and settings were reset. Then put constant to constant and switched to switched, and the stereo works perfect, settings stay as they should. Speakers are far better than I expected too! I do want to upgrade eventually but they'll do just fine for the time being! 

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Just a question....are your speakers in black factory boxes under the dash? IF not find a set of these boxes and adapt them to fit your speakers. They are great to enhance the sound.  Even the stock crap speakers in these boxes sound OK  until you get better quality slightly larger speakers.  I also wired my radio separately from the car's radio wiring. Simply to keep any issues that may upset the idiotic sensitive computer draw issues. I have a separate fuse panel to power just such items which is relay powered from the SAM. Just so it isn't drawing anything while the car is turned off also. BUT, this also means my radio isn't powered while the key isn't turned on, something I am going to change soon I hope.  My beater for some reason doesn't like to leave the key turned on if you don't start the car?

 

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