Guinness

What Did You Do To Your Smart Today?

4,982 posts in this topic

Did you take any photos with the plastic off?

Yup. They are macro shots (the car is on jack stands so there is not much focal distance) of the kind of rust damage seen all over.

I've had them off my white car once (it's mint) and the green car once (damned near to mint).

While not mint, most of these pictures look worse than the condition actually is, except for the one extremely close macro shot where you can start to see penetration between the seams. But even that can be cleaned out and treated so as to prevent further deterioration.

For my part I cleaned out the garage this weekend and now the three cars in the 1.5 car garage have a bit more wiggle room.

Garage cleaning was supposed to take place yesterday, but family time took precedent and I didn't do anything car related until I took these photos.

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That grommet near the stud should be removed and you can spray body cavity (anti-rust) spray in there (inside the rocker panel/tridion), which would help protect the jack mount area that is in your second photo. Some of that rust looks kind of nasty.

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Oil & filter, gear box fluid.Lower ball joints will need replacing soon. Luckily I have a pair in the cupboard that I snagged at half price a couple of years back.Rear rubber almost down to the wear bars, as expected - these are a pair of snowies that wouldn't do for another winter, so I've just been running them down to extend the life of my all-seasons.. Might have to see if I can transition to Vredestein Q3... bread and water for a few weeks!Bil :cool:Oh yes, and... are ball joints easy to do? How many hours should I expect my mechanic to take for the job?

Edited by bilgladstone

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My second set of summers is showing nylon, pretty sure they'll leak soon (like when I went this far on the first set). Will likely mount my worn Conti Winter Contact rears on the pulse rims to ride out the warm season, then decide on new rubber (and possibly wheels) in the spring.

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Business is getting in the way of working on the car, but I finally found a few minutes to drain the cooling system, tag and photograph the electrical connectors on the engine. The dealer has replaced the clic hose-clamp with a Jubilee type clamp :angry: at the coolant return line from the radiator. Fortunately they did not over torque it and the aluminium pipe is not deformed :) . The front end was also examined rust damage to the tridion, and some was found (unexpectedly) the battery compartment! The plastic panels have not been protecting the underbody as well as they should have.

Edited by sbungay

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Put on my rear Hankook UHP all seasons today, as the snowies that I've been burning down this summer finally reached the wear bars. SO nice to be on comfortable rubber again... these Venuts V4 H105 tires really soak up the roadway!

A note on the oil change earlier this week: LiquiMoly synthetic 5W30 is awesome! Smoother, quieter engine. The 5W40 is fully synthetic and the 0W40 is hydro-cracked "synthetic" so I went 5W40. Also, 5W40 lists MB 229.5 on the label, and 0W40 only MB 229.3

And the gear oil is now Royal Purple Max ATF with my favourite "special sauce" ZX1 and even after only a couple of hundred Km, the improvement is noticable. SMOOTHER manual shifts and more accurate rev-matching makes them quicker too, especially in auto-downshifting; quieter as well. This should get better and better as the additive bonds to the gear parts at higher temperatures for prolonged runs. Some claim that my butt-O-meter needs recalibrating, but I stand by this observation :P

Heading to AB on Sunday!

Bil :sun:

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On Thursday last, I took a trip to London and visited with Glenn (smart142) and had some work done.

We changed out all three glow plugs with no issues. We also removed the IC and EGR and cleaned both.

EGR before and after cleaning

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EGR Valve before and after cleaning

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A lot of scrubbing and picking was done to get all the chunks out of the two pieces. The exhaust side of the EGR was a solid mass of hard, black soot. We soaked them both in varsol for about 3 hours while we did the rest of the work. The EGR valve barely opened! But, after cleaning, they both work perfectly.

We also removed the TIK pipe. Here's the turbo about a month after blocking the oil vapours from the engine. No cleaning had happened before this was taken!

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I didn't get any pics of the IC but it had oil splashed on both sides. A few minutes in the parts cleaner looked after that. After close examination and pressure testing, we couldn't find a leak. We can only conclude that either it was/is leaking from the seams of the plastic parts due to pressure from the blocked EGR or a loose hose. We reinstalled it and crossed our fingers! We also found that the IC scoop had already been replaced with the non-chafing version. This was confirmed as there was no chafing on the back of the IC. I drove back to Barrie from London and then checked the IC area again and there was no oil visible. So, I dunno. :dunno:

I also cleaned out the TIK and all the hoses for the IC and EGR with brake cleaner. I think two cans worth :rolleyes:

So, if you are looking for a good mechanic, I recommend that you give Glenn a call or PM. A three hour drive, for me, every six months to London is no big deal. The service is good and the rates are very competitive :thumbsup_anim:

Edited by Utopiacdi

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Very nice David!I washed an shined Bessy Saturday. Used the Solvent Based Tire and Vinyl Dressing we have at work, The tires look great but I won't be putting the solvent stuff on often because of the damage it can do. The Black plastic around the bottom of the car looks amazing though, it's finally black again! I'm sad I forgot to do the Air Inlet and Fuel Door! Maybe next time. Has anyone used Solvent Based Tire Dressing for long periods of time?

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I switched to water-based last year and won't go back. I use Meguiar's Hyper Dressing, diluted to different ratios for different levels of "gloss." I prefer a satin or natural look, so the gallon of Hyper Dressing concentrate should last me several years. It is equally effective on interior materials and trim, tires, exterior plastics and engine-bay hoses, and even does a great job on the arch liners once they've been scrubbed and cleaned with a strong all-purpose cleaner (4:1 Meg's APC+). The only place I use a silicone-based product now is on door, roof and window seals and the cabrio's roof rails.

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Got busy and lubed the waste gate again, and gave it a boost to get out and drive it ( it has been basically sitting in the garage since the end of July and the battery ran down). Gave it a good long drive nd it is working as well as ever, made me remember why I love this car and why despite protests I am keeping it ( especially top down in nice weather).

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I spent Sunday morning in the Canadian Tire parking lot in Olds Alberta, repairing a popped intake pipe. It works better than ever now. Fortunately I had a full set of tools on board!

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Bil :sun:

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Removed the X brace from the back of the engine bay, removed the rear engine mount bolts and lowered the engine. Removed one of the bolts for the AC compressor and loosened the second, once bolt #2 comes out the AC Compressor can be tied up to the tridion and I can raise the engine and bolt it back to its mounts in preparation for lowering the whole engine cradle/engine assembly. Progress continues at a glacial pace.

Edited by sbungay

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Removed the Clutch Acctuator, took the motor out of it and cleaned the crapoola out of the actuator (not the motor) I then stuffed it with grease and reinstalled (in the same position it was before removal). I also couldn't help but explore since the car was on the hoist, I removed many bolts, applied never sieze and reinstalled. I also pulled the sensor out of the intercooler and sprayed brake clean inside to flush out some oil (seems to be less oil since I started running the level low).Apparently the brake cleaner didn't all drain or evaporate from the intercooler and I got quite a startle when I tried to start the car. At first it cranked and didn't fire, so I tried again...it fired hard. Started revving and clattering like crazy, so I shut it off right away (max 5 seconds) but the car continued to run and rev very high for another 5-10 seconds (felt like minutes) the shop FILLED with smoke. A co-worker was running an e-test when this happened and he thought he was blowing the engine in the car. We had to stand outside for a few minutes while the smoke cleared. I restarted the engine and everything was normal, went for a boot around the lot and it seems fine. Hopefully nothing got bounced too hard :(Hopefully the clutch works better now, it's been jumpy, almost like the driver's foot was slipping off the pedal and "dropping the clutch" I know a star adjustment is a good idea, and a remap can help....gotta find some time to meet up with Glenn

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Yeah, it's like using starting fluid to start a diesel, VERY hard on bearings and the engine in general.

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The running on is why I sprayed mine out of the car and let it dry out for a day or so,afterwards ( and dont think I used brake cleaned, but what I did use probably could have been just as bad). Same goes forthe EGR valve for that matter.

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Visited the car wash to get bugs and road dirt from last week's road trip off the car. Re-torqued the wheels and set the tires back to in-town pressures (28/30psi) versus 36/38psi for highway road trip. Cleared all the junk out and sprayed Febreze Auto on all the carpeting. Left the battery conditioner on last night - something I do every few months just for the heck of it.

Happy car = happy Bil :sun:

Edited by bilgladstone

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Cleaned - but not detailed - the engine compartment this evening. I had read someplace on the Intertubes that a guy tried the bathroom cleaner, "Scrubbing Bubbles" with moderate success. I had a bottle in the cupboard, so I tried it. Not bad! Soaked with that, then rinsed with warm tap water in a low-pressure trigger sprayer. Put a tatty old sheet under the car to collect the drips.

Quite a bit of last week's road schmutz came off, but I am still picking away at long-time accumulated grease and oil on the bottom end. Jack + jack stands next week, if I feel ambitious...

Bil :sun:

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An ongoing battle on the bottom end, if you ask me. If it's not an axle oil seal, it's the crank case vent oil schmutz. If not that, it's from elsewhere. Now it appears that my spin-on adapter's o-ring is leaky. There is oil cake all over my filter and the bottom of the block and gear box.

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Got the last bolt out of the AC compressor mount and freed it from the corrosion that was holding it fast to the bracket. It is now tied up to the chassis. The new clic clamp tool arrived and the clamps for the big cooling system hoses under the car have been released, fuel lines are next. Getting the hoses off the aluminium pipes they slide over is another matter as they are quite firmly stuck. A little more (gentle) persuasion will be required there. Raised the engine back up and bolted it to the cradle. Removed the ground strap from the rear of the engine. When lowering the engine the sensor had to come out of the turbo feed to the intercooler, man there was a lot of oil in there. Still lots to do, but it is coming (and so is Christmas *sigh*).

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No turbonizer boostification again!!! I was sure it must be the little hose for the turbonic wastespillage cylindrical diaphragm activizer but no, it was the same flingiflangin intaketion hose that I had repaired in Olds Alberta.Rear end up on ramps (the car that is), I removed the rear panels. Removed the tow bar (about which more another time), and de-gunked everything in sight. Now that I could actually see things again, it was apparent that a boost hose extension had come off the elbonic connector. This time I epoxied the b*st*rd in place - NOT coming off again!I had all the tools i needed except batteries for the camera :facepalm:Everything is clean and tidy and working A+ again. *cough*I hope*cough*Bil :drive:

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Next up: air filter.

My ITG filter is several years old and I decided to get a replacement. I ordered it up but they sent me the wrong size. In order to have the right size sent out, I would have to pay for return shipping, which I didn't want to do, and I had too many worries to deal with it at the time, so I just put it on the shelf.

Getting ready for the winter, and it being time to clean/re-oil the filter, I decided to have a look at this again. The new one is far wider than the original, and just would not fit in the space allotted. But that also means that there is lots of the foam filter media to work with. So I decided to use it as raw material with which to fabricate a new filter that would fit!

Yesterday I took a deep breath, "opened the can of worms" and with a razor blade, a hacksaw, side-cutters, pliers and two kinds of adhesive, began the makeover. Today I have to get some clear silicone to make the final bond between the aluminum throat and the conical tri-foam frustum. Yeah, that's right: frustum. Google it - I had took it up - you don't get it for free :P

So now I'm finishing off some tomato soup and then I'll get out my walking stick and hike over to Lordco for a tube of silicone, and to the pharmacy next door for some camera batteries to take some piccies.

Stay tuned...

Bil :sun:

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The air filter mentioned above.

Original:

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Re-constructed too-big replacement has much more flow-friendly throat:

(it was almost as big in diameter as the box it's sitting on!)

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Looks pretty crap but :dunno: it'll work. I'll post photos of it in place some other time.

B :sun:

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