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What Did You Do To Your Smart Today?

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On Saturday mornings, the line tends to be long at the UPS Store. However, if you are only picking up tires, let the staff know. They usually deal with ppl with tires first, bypassing the lineup

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No idea how long. Unfortunately for me, it's two tires to a box, at 22 lb each, so still $5. I'm hoping for your reaction to be that of the typical person, meaning that they should be relatively quiet.

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Today was a busy day:

-Picked up a set of Blizzak WS60's and a set of ContiEcoContacts in Ogdensburg, NY this morning and had them mounted on my rims.

-Replaced the airbag connectors under the seats, as per the (Now premium...) Evilution page here (Luckily I had scraped the page in advance!).

-While I had the seats out to replace the airbag connectors, I tightened up the straps on my seat covers. If I'd realized it was as easy to get the seats out as it is, I would have taken them out when I first installed the covers. It's way easier to fiddle with one of those strap tightening things when you aren't hunched over and trying to manipulate it blindly.

-Pulled the nose cone off

-Pulled out the headlight to reflow the solder on a section of 3 LEDs on my angel eyes that stopped working

-Installed a cabin air filter

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It's raining, so Snowball stays home....the winter is a time of rare usage for her, but this past year I've driven her about 28,000 km, on a couple of trips to Alberta, and the USA!

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I noticed my angel eye fix didn't hold this morning on the way to work - 3 LEDs were still not lighting up. Luckily, I had a spare providing some light on my 3d printer, so I swapped out the broken one for my "spare", so I can try to get the broken one fixed up. I'll probably just order another spare, since they're only $5, just to have it sitting around. I'm personally surprised that they have lasted as long as they have (Installed them 3 years ago when I got my Scratch Black panels), especially for the price.I also replaced the amphenol block heater connection at the front of the car with a standard PC power supply connector. The metal plate the connector was attached to was in pretty rough shape, as Turbomar had pointed out a week or so ago on his car. I also took a spare power cable, cut off the cord and am using that as a cover for the socket. We'll see how this holds up. Worst case, I can replace the socket every few years. They aren't exactly hard to get your hands on.

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Road trip to the east on the 401 to visit Glenn.HalfByte needed attention and asked Glenn to take a peek. Glenn did a quick triage and pointed out a couple items that had been missed some how during the latest dealer B service in August. What started as a short easy day for Glenn and Matt took a bit longer. Sorry guys.In short order the plan to get the little guy up to code was in place and work started. They talked, answered any question and made me feel comfortable. No double speak.Both Glenn and Matt had taken care of the car as if their own.One word of caution... do not ride shotgun in Glenn's Smart, you will beg for his remap to be installed before the first km is done. :D Yes it was installed and had a bit of fun driving around London - Starbucks can not be found near his garage :( , and the 401 back to Windsor most 'interesting' testing the ride.Can you say I am glad to finally meet them.Now to wash off all the bugs in the morning. Ready for the next roadtrip to Ottawa while the politicians are away this week.

Edited by smart142

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On break at work I decided to fiddle around with the Grey smart and finish up the EGR Delete. My new blocking plates and EGR emulators arrived last week and it was sitting there ready to go.

I had gotten a Emulator from Izzy (stickman007) with no connections and looking around the shop. . . and vola found a proper connection! So I soldered them together, heat shrinked it, then installed it along with the Blocking plate. Didn't take much time and still had time to eat lunch (having the EGR off helped of course) ;)

Ran out of black zip ties. . so had to deal with white for the time being.

Basicly here are the parts that I used:

[*]EGR Emulator from a fellow member (stickman007)

[*]14cm long 1 3/4" Exhaust pipe with rolled bead to prevent from coming loose. (http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=26335)

[*]Blocking/cheater Plate from Ebay (Poland) (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/181215122428?ssPage...984.m1497.l2649)

[*]2 Stainless steel bolts for the blocking plate.

[*]2 2" Stainless steel clamps (for exhaust pipe)

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I gave my fabrication guy the blocking plates so he can copy them so if anyone needs some I can get him to run a batch

Edited by dmoonen

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Removed the auto down window module from the drivers door of the coupe.Have been having issues with it for a while and yesterday it jammed the window up. :angry: Once removed, everything was back to normal.Taking the passenger side module out tomorrow.Dale

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I noticed my angel eye fix didn't hold this morning on the way to work - 3 LEDs were still not lighting up. Luckily, I had a spare providing some light on my 3d printer, so I swapped out the broken one for my "spare", so I can try to get the broken one fixed up. I'll probably just order another spare, since they're only $5, just to have it sitting around. I'm personally surprised that they have lasted as long as they have (Installed them 3 years ago when I got my Scratch Black panels), especially for the price.I also replaced the amphenol block heater connection at the front of the car with a standard PC power supply connector. The metal plate the connector was attached to was in pretty rough shape, as Turbomar had pointed out a week or so ago on his car. I also took a spare power cable, cut off the cord and am using that as a cover for the socket. We'll see how this holds up. Worst case, I can replace the socket every few years. They aren't exactly hard to get your hands on.

Excellent idea! When my Amphenol bites the biscuit I'm doing that....Just got back from the test run after installing a new rear wheel bearing, the silence is beautiful! I can hear my tires whine... Edited by strawboss

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Just fitted the rear shoes and assembly on the grey smart. . oh how I hate shoes/drums too many springs. Also cleaned up the EGR delete a bit better and took better photos so you can actually see the blocking plate, emulator and straight pipe.post-12052-1380198150_thumb.jpgpost-12052-1380198169_thumb.jpg

Edited by dmoonen

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Dale, which modules? The No More Slammin'? I went through two sets of erratic or non-functioning modules. The last one gave out completely a couple of months ago. I have yet to remove it, as my window still works like normal.

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Dale, which modules? The No More Slammin'? I went through two sets of erratic or non-functioning modules. The last one gave out completely a couple of months ago. I have yet to remove it, as my window still works like normal.

Yep, the same ones. Been acting up for a long time.I removed the power feed to the window at all time wire as the door would open, the window would come down about an inch, and then not go back upunless I used the switch. If I opened the door again before using the switch to see if it would work, it would drop some more and still not go up w/o switch.Recently the module would try and force the window once it reached it\s stops (both down and up).Could hear the window motor trying to work for a second longer after reaching the end.2 days ago, wife used the car and when she got to work to use her access card, window would not work at all.Didn't start working until I removed the module.Will be putting the power feed wire back on as it's nice to have the window available all the time.I would not wait much longer to take it off before you end up with a jammed window. It might not lock in the up position but down when you least want it.Dale

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Had a major oil leak after I added a spin-on adaptor and couldn't find the source for 2 days! It was actually leaking from the seam of the brand new filter! Never buy a CT brand filter again! Went with a Moble1 M1-110.

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Removed the half shafts today.MB says to use a long bar inserted inside the dedion tube and press it to the side to get enough clearance to remove the shaft. I have the whole engine cradle out, so there is no vehicle weight to leverage against. Solution? A 30" piece of two by four and a scissors jack. Place one end of the 2x4 against the dedion, insert the jack between the other end of the dedion and the 2x4, then slowly open the jack. Not too much, just enough to get the half shafts out. For the plugs I wadded up some paper towel and placed the wads inside disposable protective gloves. One glove in each hole, excellent. :D Photos have been scaled to 1024x768 to keep the size down.

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Edited by sbungay

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Today for the first time ever, I washed the headliner in Snowball the BRABUS Canada 1. Man was it filthy! It came up nice and clean after a good scrubbing with a fingernail brush and detergent as well as some Ban-it stain soap. That should be good for another couple of years, anyway!

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After last night my brother is no longer allowed in my smart :weird: . I picked my brother up at 3am from work and in a heated argument the dam kid threw a 1L jug of chocolate milk at me so I ditched him on the side of the road in a farmers field 15km from home without a cellphone . . So 4am I was carpet cleaning the whole thing out, cleaning all the windows and armorall'd all the plastic. Good news the interior is clean at least. . :angry:

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Today, I replaced my rear drums brakes cylinders. Afer rear brakes draging during my last road trip, at 230k km, it was time to replaced it! Fortunatly, it resolved my rear brakes draging problem. ;)

Edited by dieselkiki

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Went for a nice drive in the sunshine. Gotta take advantage of the top-down weather while it lasts. Cleaned the silverwing inside and out in preparation for it's hibernation during the colder, wetter weather.

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Just curious what else you do to get your smart ready for hibernation, depending on how things go mine may get a rest this winter too and never having needed to properly store a car I am curious about some of the better things to do ( of course if things don't work out it may still be driven).

Edited by scwmcan

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Before it gets parked for the winter, I usually change the oil, fill the fuel, take it for a good run on the highway to get things nice and warm (gets rid of the moisture) and put the battery on a battery maintainer (through the cig. lighter which has been converted to live all the time). Every 2 or 3 weeks, I start it up and let it run for a couple of minutes at about 1,200 rpm to get it warm, then shut it down. If it is dry out, I will take it for a short run as well, just to keep things moving.This will be the third winter of doing it this way and there has been no issues in the spring.

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