Restrictor Plug

[Speedie 4]

Great pictorial but please help me sleep at night - don't use the bricks in the front to support the car - if they point load at all they will crack and collapse or if sideways force is applied they will tip. A better solution is to get some lumber shorts - 2" x 4" x 12" nominal - cut enough so you can make a log cabin type affair - i.e alternate the direction of the layers - on the ends put an extra across the middle - nail through at each corner. When you are done you have a safe, relatively light and easy to place support that will hold up a smart car or a yacht with out risk of tipping or cracking and failing. I made a set 30 years ago out of scrap - they worked well up until I retired them last year. I like them even better than axle stands as there is more supporting base to them and you can nail a block on the top if you need to pickup the support point of the car.Cheers,Cameron

[tolsen 630]

Good point Speedie.

The bricks are only used as packers underneith the tires when raising the Smart. I shall update my post with a photo soon.

Here is my centre brick pillar at front. Note that the pillar is pretty substantial with timber at the top avoiding pointloads on both bricks and front suspension cross member.

[tolsen 630]

Hi folks,

I've reduced the price for my restrictor plug to CAD 25 incl p&p (small packet airmail - not tracked).

Cheers,

TK

[oz42 0]

Hi folks,

I've reduced the price for my restrictor plug to CAD 25 incl p&p (small packet airmail - not tracked).

Cheers,

TK

Do you offer shipping to Germany? If yes, how much Euros would that be?

Olaf

[tolsen 630]

Do you offer shipping to Germany? If yes, how much Euros would that be?Olaf

18.5 Euros to any EU country inclusive of air mail non tracked shipment. Kindly note that the restrictor plug is only suitable for the OM660 Cdi engine. OM160 petrol engines already have a restrictor built into the thermostat so not much gain.

[FinallyGotOne 1]

Tolsen I think I would like one.I want to finish reading all 6 pages after work first. I may have some questions. I know some trucks with small blocks place carboard in front of their radiators in the winter to get the engine hot. I don't know if thats an option for the Smart.

[Alex 21]

Cardboard over about 75% of the rad does help, but not as much as preventing the heat leakage to begin with. Any more coverage and you risk overheating if you have any long grades. Keep an eye on your temperature! Be aware of way too much work involved in the install. The engine must be dropped. Not fully removed, but still a lot of work.I still miss my old truck once in a while. Talk about easy access to virtually everything!

[tolsen 630]

Cardboard over about 75% of the rad does help, but not as much as preventing the heat leakage to begin with. Any more coverage and you risk overheating if you have any long grades. Keep an eye on your temperature! Be aware of way too much work involved in the install. The engine must be dropped. Not fully removed, but still a lot of work.I still miss my old truck once in a while. Talk about easy access to virtually everything!

So true. It can't be done sitting in a deck chair wearing a white shirt.Time estimates:1) Rear end on axle stands: 5 minutes.2) Drop power pack 4 inches on trolley jack: 10 minutes.3) Drain coolant: 5 minutes.4) Disconnect hose at V- piece fitted to water pump: 5 minutes.5) Fit restrictor plug and reconnect hose: 5 minutes.6) Bleed and check for leaks: 5 minutes.7) Lift power pack back into position and torque bolts: 10 minutes.8) Drop rear end back onto firm ground: 5 minutes.9) Bleed again for good measure: 10 minutes.Total time estimate: 60 minutes.

[Alex 21]

And that's for a guy with Tolsen's skill who has done it many times! Triple that estimate if you have decent skill but have never done. Without decent skill don't even attempt.

[Francesco 71]

I'm not sure I have the skill, but I did have the will. I ended up wasting time doing other stupidities -- removing and replacing the right side wheel arch liner to access the belts took ages! -- and it took me about four hours start to finish using Kane's technique. Using TK's block-and-bolt drop or the proper MB drop pins would likely cut that time in half for a first-timer.

[bilgladstone 13]

So true. It can't be done sitting in a deck chair wearing a white shirt.Time estimates:1) Rear end on axle stands: 5 minutes.2) Drop power pack 4 inches on trolley jack: 10 minutes.3) Drain coolant: 5 minutes.4) Disconnect hose at V- piece fitted to water pump: 5 minutes.5) Fit restrictor plug and reconnect hose: 5 minutes.6) Bleed and check for leaks: 5 minutes.7) Lift power pack back into position and torque bolts: 10 minutes.8) Drop rear end back onto firm ground: 5 minutes.9) Bleed again for good measure: 10 minutes.Total time estimate: 60 minutes.

THIS is why I am flabbergasted that a professional shop with all the tools and wherewithal charges $500+ to do the job!

[RDL 0]

THIS is why I am flabbergasted that a professional shop with all the tools and wherewithal charges $500+ to do the job!

At least they are consistent. Their $300 oil change does not compute unless the gouge coefficient is used as well. MB should be embarrassed at how tolsen upstaged their engineering department. They created the cold country cdi owners discomfort and consequently large expenses so that MB could save $0.50.Raymond

[RDL 0]

I received the Restrictor Plug less than a week after ordering. That is fast. I note however that you sent me the earlier Mark II version that had a blunt nose. I would like to push the Restrictor Plug through the hose to its final position. Without the taper the plug will likely snag the lip of the fitting. Should I taper the end or make a new piece that maintains the same bore? Should the OD of the Restrictor Plug's flange be reduced from the 25.5 mm current dimension?Raymond

[tolsen 630]

I received the Restrictor Plug less than a week after ordering. That is fast.

I note however that you sent me the earlier Mark II version that had a blunt nose. I would like to push the Restrictor Plug through the hose to its final position. Without the taper the plug will likely snag the lip of the fitting. Should I taper the end or make a new piece that maintains the same bore? Should the OD of the Restrictor Plug's flange be reduced from the 25.5 mm current dimension?

Raymond

Post from UK to Canada is very fast. Not so good to Germany and USA.

The restrictor plug that is supposed to be fitted from top by pushing it through the hose never made it to testing and into production.

There would be no real advantage other than for false marketing making people believe it will be easier to fit than the original.

Above original plug is still the best design and easier to fit than the untested one that pushes though the hose.

You need to lower engine anyway to get access to the hose. Lowering pins are strictly not required but may come handy one day should you need to change starter or work on alternator.

[RDL 0]

Thanks for the prompt clarification.Raymond

[oz42 0]

I installed the plug yesterday into my 451 CDI and am really impressed how quick the engine got warm. Temperature never went below 84°C, even not downhill or when waiting at a traffic light.Olaf

[Pradziad 0]

Hi Everyone!I'm new here, but this topic is very interesting for me. How this restriction plug behave during summer time? Did any of you ever have a need to take it out due to overheating when outside temperature is above 25C?One question to tolsen, did you considered to install this plug from the thermostat side instead of V-piece (much more easier to install without need of lowering the engine)?RegardsTom

[CANMAN 23]

Hi Tom,I installed Tolsens restrictor plug last spring.It works great, having 3 blobs of heat instead of only 2 in the winter is wonderful.No problem with overheating in the summer, I live in central Ontario and we had 34dec C this summer.I bought a set of Mercedes lowering bolts, never having done the job before it took about 4 hours start to finish.I did a few extra jobs while the engine was lowered, like cleaning and greasing the starter electrical connections and having a good look for chafing and cleaning the engine and engine bay a bit.I would also recommend changing the fuel filter/ water separator and draining/ refilling the transmission fluid and replacing the coolant, it drains very well with the engine lowered and is easy to get all the air out.P.m. Me if you need step by step info.CANMAN

[tolsen 630]

One question to tolsen, did you considered to install this plug from the thermostat side instead of V-piece (much more easier to install without need of lowering the engine)?

Yes I did look into that, see post 114 for further details and my conclusion.By the way, I've seen quite a surge in orders recently. Wonder if that is a good or bad omen? Perhaps this winter is going to be a particularly bad one?PS. Kindly note I have updated post 1 to show 3 important maintenance items you can do at same time as fitting restrictor plug when you have the required access.

[Pradziad 0]

I just want to share with all of you the information that I installed a plug quite similar to tolsen, but made of aluminum and with tight fit joint between OD and thermostat ID instead of o-ring. I put it into thermostat housing instead of V-piece. I'm using it since begging of November and I didn't observed any issues yet beside nice warmth getting out from heater and 3 eggs on temp. indicator .Tolesen, if you don't mind, I would like to use few of your pictures and translate yours general idea of plugging the thermostat onto one of Polish Smart car forum.Thanks

[tolsen 630]

I just want to share with all of you the information that I installed a plug quite similar to tolsen, but made of aluminum and with tight fit joint between OD and thermostat ID instead of o-ring. I put it into thermostat housing instead of V-piece. I'm using it since begging of November and I didn't observed any issues yet beside nice warmth getting out from heater and 3 eggs on temp. indicator .Tolesen, if you don't mind, I would like to use few of your pictures and translate yours general idea of plugging the thermostat onto one of Polish Smart car forum.Thanks

Hi there Pradziad.There are many ways to skin a cat. One design I did consider was similar, a plug pushed into bypass outlet of thermostat and held in securely with a stainless steel pin. No doubt this would work but I went for a more foolproof solution and fitted the plug at V-piece at pump. I was worried a smaller diameter plug fitted at thermostat could work itself loose and jam at pump and pin could damage seals in pump. Too risky a solution I thought if I were to sell these to the public.Kindly reference source (poster, forum and thread) if you use any of my photos and diagrams.TK