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vintagesmart

How To Service A Stuck/seized Turbo Wastegate Arm?

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Car: Smart for Two, CDI 2001, LHD.

I read about servicing the wastegate on the evilution site. (How to service the wastegate)

I removed the rear panel and then right above the bumper was this:

Posted Image

This has been confirmed as the turbo wastegate on another forum.

The trouble is it does not move at all. Looks like it is completely seized/welded... Tried moving the long rod by hand but no luck. Lubricated all ends. Left it for around 45 minutes. Still no luck. The question is, if it is working properly would I be able to move the rod by hand?

Could anyone please give me tips/suggestions on how to sort this one out?

Thanks in advance.

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You should be able to grasp the poppet lever of the wastegate (right hand end of rod in your illustration) with e.g. a channel lock pliers and rotate it with medium effort. If it doesn't move, liberally apply a good quality penetrating lubricant and let soak overnight.

Although, if the interior poppet itself is seized by carbon deposit, you may need to run the car with a double+ dose of e.g. Prestone Diesel Fuel Treatment or Stanadyne to help free the carbon build-up.

HTH,

Bil :sun:

P.S. Here's what clean innards look like:

post-95-1271633328_thumb.jpg

Edited by bilgladstone

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You should be able to grasp the poppet lever of the wastegate (right hand end of rod in your illustration) with e.g. a channel lock pliers and rotate it with medium effort. If it doesn't move, liberally apply a good quality penetrating lubricant and let soak overnight. Although, if the interior poppet itself is seized by carbon deposit, you may need to run the car with a double+ dose of e.g. Prestone Diesel Fuel Treatment or Stanadyne to help free the carbon build-up.

P.S. Here's what clean innards look like:

post-95-1271633328_thumb.jpg

Thanks a lot mate! I used an oil based lubricant. But would it be safe to use WD40 on the popper lever? IF that doesnt work shall use diesel fuel treatment and see what happens... Edited by vintagesmart

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Thanks a lot mate! I used an oil based lubricant. But would it be safe to use WD40 on the popper lever? IF that doesnt work shall use diesel fuel treatment and see what happens...

No to the WD-40 - it's just a Water-Displacing spray. You local motor factor will have penetrating oils of many stripes.

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Poppet lever of the wastegate moves but does not snap back as mentioned in other threads/posts. But the other end seems stuck. Have lubricated it again. Not sure if it would work. If it does not work out, then thinking of a A level service to sort things out.

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The wastegate itself should be free to move, no spring involved. The actuator has the spring to return it to closed, and uses the boost pressure to overcome the spring force and open the wastegate. Takes a firm grip to move it, but should move. Looking at your photo it should move to the right. Sounds like the problem is actuator, not wastegate. I think the case is pressed together and crimped, hence non-serviceable. If the lube soaking doesn't loosen it up a new one is the only answer. Taking the hose off and spaying some lube on that side as well may help.

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Mine's getting a new turbo tomorrow because of the intermittently-sticking wastegate. FWIW, last time I had the back end off, I couldn't move the lever with my hands. At all. I didn't try with channel-locks pliers.

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You're in UK, right? Once the problem is diagnosed, you might save a packet getting an independent effect the repair. As far as I know, all the main dealer can do is offer you a complete turbo/wastegate/manifold assembly for hundreds of pounds, not just the actuator/rod by itself.Let us know how you make out, eh?Bil :sun:

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The wastegate itself should be free to move, no spring involved. The actuator has the spring to return it to closed, and uses the boost pressure to overcome the spring force and open the wastegate. Takes a firm grip to move it, but should move. Looking at your photo it should move to the right. Sounds like the problem is actuator, not wastegate. I think the case is pressed together and crimped, hence non-serviceable. If the lube soaking doesn't loosen it up a new one is the only answer. Taking the hose off and spaying some lube on that side as well may help.

After marking the position of the nuts on the arm, I loosened them. The poppet valve (right end on my picture) moves freely. Even comes back into position. But it seems to be stuck on the other end. So the arm does not register any movement either way. Shall try once more this weekend.Saw an excellent youtube video on how to lubricate the clutch actuator! That and the parking brake adjustment are the plans for this weekend.

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You're in UK, right? Once the problem is diagnosed, you might save a packet getting an independent effect the repair. As far as I know, all the main dealer can do is offer you a complete turbo/wastegate/manifold assembly for hundreds of pounds, not just the actuator/rod by itself.Let us know how you make out, eh?Bil :sun:

Yes, I am in the UK. MB have quoted £50 + vat for just checking the turbo wastegate. Parts and replacement labour if any, is on top of that. Good friends with the local garage guys... But not sure if they are competent enough to carry out the work. Please give me some pointers on what I should ask them to do?

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Where are you located, mate? Visit smartmaniacs and ask where your nearest, reliable independent smart specialist is - they're scattered around most parts of the country.

Good luck!

Bil :sun:

supporting member, smartmaniacs

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The rod can seize up in the bearing where it enters the dashpot. Apply penetration oil and work the rod in and out but be careful not to rotate rod. Rotating rod will cause damage to diaphragm rendering the actuator fubarred. This operation is best done with actuator fitted in a vice but can be done in situ using a suitable wrench (14 or 15 mm open ended fits) to move the wastegate arm. Good preventative maintenance is lubing rod and bearing from time to time. Good machine oil is fine. Only graphite dry lube works on the wastegate arm.

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Latest update: I took it to a MB approved Smart specialist. They said the arm was stuck/seized completely. They recommended me to replace the whole turbo for £900 since a failed actuator means more bits in the turbo may have failed too. :o Wast not convinced, so came back home, removed the wastegate actuator, lubed it with plenty of oil and presto! it started working. The arm action is good but still too tight.

This operation is best done with actuator fitted in a vice but can be done in situ using a suitable wrench (14 or 15 mm open ended fits) to move the wastegate arm.

Completely agree. Best to work it on a vice. With the actuator fitted on the car I could not move it at all (so couldn't the so-called specialists) and thought it was fubarred.Thanks for the tips guys. Pretty happy that I dont have to shell out for a new turbo now.Since actuator was stuck so far, when I fit it back can I test the actuator by just raising in neutral ? Also would I feel any difference in drive/engine feel since the actuator would be working?

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Good that you were able to DIY the repair! You might be able to test in neutral, but the real trial will be when you drive. If it's not been working at all previously, you ought to notice definite improvement!Well solved!Bil :sun:

Edited by bilgladstone

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Good that you were able to DIY the repair! You might be able to test in neutral, but the real trial will be when you drive. If it's not been working at all previously, you ought to notice definite improvement!Well solved!Bil :sun:

Thank you for the quick response. Any chance of actuator not working when fitted in the car? Please let me know how much rpm should the engine be at, to make the wastegate actuator work?

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Late reply, but since this thread has just been linked to: Wastegate works off boost level, not speed. It might be hard to see any motion without a load on engine. Blipping the throttle might actuate it for a moment.

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