tolsen

Fitting Grease Nipples On Rear Wheel Bearings

31 posts in this topic

Posted (edited) · Report post

Those fancy bushes are too expensive for my pocket book so I did not bother researching suppliers. I might go for track rod ends if mine do wear out. Thereby I will have adjustable Panhard rods. Could not find any wear in my bushes.PS: I removed the drums when I had the Smart on blocks to check if there was any grease ingress into the rear brake assembly. Happy to confirm no leakage.

Edited by smart142

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Posted (edited) · Report post

An update after running 18000 km on rear axle with camber reduced from 2 degrees to 0.5 degrees:

Tyre wear is now more or less even. Approx 0.3 mm more wear on inboard side compared to outboard. Measured from top of tread down to tread wear indicator blocks. Rear tyres are Continental ECOContact 175/55 R15.

Rear axle 2 degrees camber:

DSC02249.jpg

 

DSC02250.jpg

 

Rear axle 0.5 degree camber:

DSC02258.jpg

 

DSC02259.jpg

Edited by tolsen
Corrected Photobucket broken image links.

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I have now corrected broken Photobucket image links.

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Wow..!   Very good thread  and brings back memories of modifying Jeeps etc after pranging them off roading...lol.

BUT....you have something else in the pic that is catching my eye...!    Your tow bar......how is it attached and is that enough or did you somehow engage the rear bumper as well..?  What do you tow with it? What weight..?
I have an aluminium coffin shaped and sized trailer that I'm figuring on towing after I make it like a covered wagon shape to sleep inside. It weighs roughly 150lbs at the moment and I still need to make the top part and ends from 28mil sheet steel, same steel my house roof is made from. I can get sheets 10' X 4' for $40 a sheet so 2 sheets and each end....simply draped up and over like an old covered wagon but solid. So lets say the weight may get up to 250 lbs at most.....I think the car will tow it easily....thoughts?  I was going to attach it where a stock tow bar attaches and also using those tug bolt holes as extra security. Thoughts?

 

Sorry to hi-jack your thread, please move it if you wish or I will start a new one, but your picture got me thinking again.

Thanks

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I initially fixed my tow bar to the two rear towing eyes using two specially made ACME threaded bolts.  That led to fatigue cracks in the aluminium bumper bar.  I was then forced to do a proper engineering design including the usual load cases and carry out stress, deflection and fatigue calculations. Made bumper bar out of steel. Modified rear flanges on engine subframe to take the towbar load as attachment of flange is a major weakness. Most details will be in a thread somewhere including lots of photos with broken image links. 

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My special ACME bolts:

 

IMG_1209.jpg

Photo is from last summer. I thought it was time to check for fatigue cracks in the bolts so ran a dye penetrant test. 

 

IMG_1210.jpg

Developer applied and hoping for no crack indication. 

 

IMG_1208.jpg

Luckily my bolts passed the test. These bolts are home made as not available in shops. Bronze pup pieces brazed onto the bolt heads have female ACME threads and are for my cycle rack. 

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