houseofdiesel

So How Many Clear 600kms A Tank?

295 posts in this topic

OK, I confess. I cheat a little too :icon_redface: My 22 year old Honda Civic regularly gets about 750 - 800 kms per tank. (46 L tank) :P

That good for an 22 year old. Do you have a scan gauge on that too? And/Or does it get good mileage because it's a honda or what?Well, This tank I am cruising along at 90KM on back roads and in the city at 60 in 5th so I hope to see a big return on my slow but steady driving.I'll keep you all up dated on my little adventure!It's to bad they didn't put a 4 on the Smart so it could have a little more power with the better mileage then the 3.Well I still love it.!Cheers

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That good for an 22 year old. Do you have a scan gauge on that too? And/Or does it get good mileage because it's a honda or what?Cheers

This car is totally stock and all original. No scan gauge or any other technogeek stuff. It is low and the aerodynamics are good on it. 5 speed standard trans. The only aftermarket addition is the trailer hitch and sequential rear signal lights.

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Very nice, How many KM on the dash board?That seems very awesome if that car doesn't give you any trouble at all. Old cars like that with problem free are amazing!

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I used to get more than 50 mpg in my 89 Civic CX. It is a combination of factors: typical Honda efficiency, simpler mechanicals (weight savings), more lax pollution standards (less restrictive intake and exhaust, leaner mixtures, etc.), more lax safety equipment requirements (more weight savings), less luxury features (yet more weight savings). My 1989 Civic had a 70 bhp 1.5 L bhp engine and weighed just one tonne (2200 lbs). In other words, about the same power as (but more torque than) a 451, weighing only about 200 more pounds. But with a proper manual transmission, it was very easy to get great mileage -- better than almost anything can get today.

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Very nice, How many KM on the dash board?

That seems very awesome if that car doesn't give you any trouble at all. Old cars like that with problem free are amazing!

The car has 493,000 kms on it with no troubles at all. Every original light bulb is still in the car and they all still work...Try that with any new car. BTW, it's fully loaded with all features available at the time for that model except for automatic.

Mine is the same as SameGuy's car except that mine is a 4-door sedan. Nothing special to anyone else, but I am the original owner and it's my baby :) See below.

Apologies to the mods.. getting off topic here :icon_redface:

post-7529-1285714442_thumb.jpg

Edited by Leadwing

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She is a beaut! I think you can drive her for ever!So how many people get over 600KM a tank on winter tires? Or is 600km just a summer thing :icon_question: I know my old car went from 8.9l/100km to 13.6l/100km with winter tires on it.

Edited by derekbrochu

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It's a triple-whammy: winter tires and cold weather and winter-blend diesel.

I've found the Conti WinterContacts are good for a 0.5 L/100 Km hit, all else being equal.

The little cdi takes a long time to warm up, and gets its best economy when it's at the normal operating temperature. It's almost impossible to get close to that range on shorter trips at lower speeds in winter. If you're really keen on this, contact TK Olsen about getting one of his cooling system restrictor plugs; it essentially cures a small design flaw and seals the thermostat better, letting the engine warm up quicker. Also, even if you park inside at night, get a timer and plug in the block heater for an hour or two before you leave the house -- the coolant temperature will already be at 25° or more which helps significantly when heading out into air that is below zero. Consider blocking most of the inlets on the front of the car. I went to Staples and bought a sheet of black Foam Core. I removed the grille and cut a piece to fit the grille opening and wired it in place (the first winter I used lengths of 1/2" foam pipe insulation -- 79¢ for 36" -- and it works well, too). I cut a rectangle that fit in the lower opening, un-clipped the splitter from the belly pan, slid it in place from below and re-clipped the splitter. Sitting loose, it still allows some air in. Finally -- and this helps the interior get a bit warmer -- I removed the driver's side air intake, removed the first (funnel) section of duct and stored it for winter, and cut and taped in place another piece of foam core. This does two things: no snow gets into the intake, helping to reduce humidity and fog in the interior, and fresh air is drawn from behind the nose panels, with some heat possibly coming from the rad if the thermostat gets to open.

Unfortunately there is little to be done about winter-blend diesel. Splash-blending with B100 biodiesel to about a B10 resultant mix (2 L B100 to 18 L petro) will aid with lubricity and cetane numbers, and regular use of a winter fuel supplement like a Lubecorp or Power Service product will enhance cold-starting and isolate water condensation.

The only thing that helps with winter fuel economy is keeping the engine in perfect tune, with fresh 0W40 oil and filter, a clean air filter, and getting the engine up to operating temperature quicker (block heater, restrictor plug). NB: until the first temperature blob shows, try to "stay out of the boost" and keep the revs below 2000.

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It's interesting: I notice no difference between the wide summer tires and the skinny winters as far as FE goes.

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Well I do have a block heater that I plan on having plugged into my car for an hour before I go to work in the morning. And i Have a about a 50km trip every morning on side highways. so I do drive 90km for about 1/2 an hour. Which will be good to get those blobs up!Biodiesel ... This is new to me... where do we get this diesel and is it good to run our cars on? And Do we want to use it in the winter?What ever helps keep my around 500km or so on such a little tank would be great. I really don't want to be stopping for gas every 2nd day.Thanks for the infoCheers :D

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You'd have to check around and ask some of the western Ontario smarties (Glenn, Tardis) about local biodiesel availability. B100 works well in our cars during summer, but you'll have to change your fuel filter a couple of times within the first 20,000 Km as it cleans varnish and sludge from the tank and fuel system and they clog the filter. As the outside temperature gets colder, you have to return to using petro diesel gradually. If you park indoor at home and at work, you can get away with a higher percentage bio blend, but you'll be taking a chance when parking at the mall or in town; biodiesel clouds and gels at a much higher temperature than petrodiesel, and you could get stuck. I park outside all day at work, so I stay at B10 (10% bio) during the depths of January and February. B20 works well the rest of the winter, and I've stuck with B20 this past summer in my quest to maximize fuel efficiency (B100 gets about 9% less distance per volume).When I do my winter mods in a couple of months I'll post pictures.

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There is a biodiesel co-op near Guelph, Everpure Co-op Hillsburgh.Another option, 1000L totes of biodiesel can be purchased from Milligan Bio-Tech.

Edited by Huronlad

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In your climate, what's the net effect? About the same, +0.5 L/100 Km?

Exactly 0.2 L/100 km!

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Exactly 0.2 L/100 km!

So with bad diesel and winter tires and cold weather with warm up time you only gain a .2L/100km Does that mean you park in side or leave it pluged in all the time???So do you super fill in the winter as well, and do you still get like 550 km then?Cheers Edited by derekbrochu

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No, what I was pointing out is that the tires themselves only make a 0.2 L/100 difference. The weather effect can be added on top of that. But the seasonal variation out here is negligible.Warm up time is irrelevant in most cases as both my smarts live in a warm garage, and it very rarely gets as low as freezing around here. My 2006 smart has a block heater but I doubt I will ever use it again (the last time was in North Dakota).

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oh I see, Well then I bet you still get over 500km a tank of diesel then right. That is cool. I figure I will be using my block daily at work and at home. for an hour before going for the drive. I hope this helps. I am very excited to drive my smart in the winter. I just hope she is warm enough in the winter to drive :lol:

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To be entirely clear (I hope), what I mean is that the wide tires and the winter tires increase consumption about 0.2 L/100 km over what you would get with Continental Eco Contacts in 145/175 configuration!The car is usually filled before 500 km, but not because the tank is empty.

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So this morning I filled up I had 4.0L Left I had 486KM on the Trip meter, and I figured I did really well!I got 3.87L/100KM So far to date that is my best! Now I know I wouldn't get 600 however I would have come close though. Because under 4L/100KM with 4L left in the tank meaning I could have gotten to about 590KM maybe more maybe less...I am happy with that!Cheers

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While every car is a little different, you probably won't see 600 kms on a tank without getting more than 200 on the first blob. FWIW, this tank is a bit less awesome for me; ScanGauge is showing 3.8 L/100 Km after 252 Km, and the first blob lasted "only" 210 Km. ;)

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While every car is a little different, you probably won't see 600 kms on a tank without getting more than 200 on the first blob. FWIW, this tank is a bit less awesome for me; ScanGauge is showing 3.8 L/100 Km after 252 Km, and the first blob lasted "only" 210 Km. ;)

Man it is almost hard to get AMazing gas mileage in the smart. But it is easy to get great mileage. I mean if your getting over 500km a tank on average or above I think that is better then getting a kick in the @$$ with a frozen boot. (As my grandmother would say) Getting over 200km on hte first blob is hard to do. and with out cruise it is super hard. My last tank I had gotten 198km and then I filled at 4l left which was very close for me to getting 600km I beleive 590 is pretty damn good. But really I think I can't wait till I really do get 600KM no joke on one tank of gas

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Man it is almost hard to get AMazing gas mileage in the smart. But it is easy to get great mileage. I mean if your getting over 500km a tank on average or above I think that is better then getting a kick in the @$$ with a frozen boot. (As my grandmother would say) Getting over 200km on hte first blob is hard to do. and with out cruise it is super hard. My last tank I had gotten 198km and then I filled at 4l left which was very close for me to getting 600km I beleive 590 is pretty damn good. But really I think I can't wait till I really do get 600KM no joke on one tank of gas

One word: SUPERFILL!Bil :sun:

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A real |Super|Fill| is a very tedious task. I've found a good, self-serve Petro-Can diesel pump with a decent slope off the concrete pad. I fill at a normal speed; after the first click-off, I use the finger-over-hole trick to add a further 2 L in about 30 seconds. Then I drive home (4 Km) and slowly top-up with a further 2 L or so of B100 and 50 mL diesel treatment. This gets me to a consistent 25 to 27 L total fill every time (depending on how close I get to "0.0 L").

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A real |Super|Fill| is a very tedious task. I've found a good, self-serve Petro-Can diesel pump with a decent slope off the concrete pad. I fill at a normal speed; after the first click-off, I use the finger-over-hole trick to add a further 2 L in about 30 seconds. Then I drive home (4 Km) and slowly top-up with a further 2 L or so of B100 and 50 mL diesel treatment. This gets me to a consistent 25 to 27 L total fill every time (depending on how close I get to "0.0 L").

The finger-over-the-breather-hole trick doesn't work at any stations I've tried here but one of them has a nice sloped apron that helps. I find that if you add the B100 first, it keeps the foaming down when you pump in the dino-diesel.Bil :sun:

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One word: SUPERFILL!Bil :sun:

A real |Super|Fill| is a very tedious task. I've found a good, self-serve Petro-Can diesel pump with a decent slope off the concrete pad. I fill at a normal speed; after the first click-off, I use the finger-over-hole trick to add a further 2 L in about 30 seconds. Then I drive home (4 Km) and slowly top-up with a further 2 L or so of B100 and 50 mL diesel treatment. This gets me to a consistent 25 to 27 L total fill every time (depending on how close I get to "0.0 L").

The finger-over-the-breather-hole trick doesn't work at any stations I've tried here but one of them has a nice sloped apron that helps. I find that if you add the B100 first, it keeps the foaming down when you pump in the dino-diesel.Bil :sun:

OK "SUPERFILLING" now I'm trying to understand this idea. I thought i was. when I am done my fill i can see it almost ready to over fill the lip of my gas tank hole. now i can wait it out and maybe get another .375 of a L in but really is that worth it. wait for it to settle into the tank? How much is the B100 and where do you by it? do you by it in a little bottle? and how often to you add it?What do you mean you put your finger over the hole ... while filling... I have never seen/heard this before.thanks for you help.Cheers ;)

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So you think you need to get to 200km on the first blob before you come close to the 600km overall. Well, I still haven't come close. I only every get 160-175km on the first blob. :(Well I guess i'm not superfilling it as much as I though. I'm got to have to figure out this B100 stuff ... to to buy and how much it costs. Is that what is says on the package "B100" :questionmark:

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