How-to: Build A Snowboard Rack

[Duck 16]

I'm an avid snowboarder. I was heartbroken when I found out the rack for the fortwo was available with an optional ski holder only! Undaunted, I noticed that the construction of the basic rack was simply an extruded aluminium profile, much like we use in the automation industry from various manufacturers like mk, Bosch, or Minitec.

The basic rack consists of a wishbone design which is secured to the back of the car via two custom thread screws (appr. M16 x 3) and two arms which connect to new brackets where the gas springs are located for the coupe's rear window. The rack is also available for the cabrio, although I'm not sure where these arms attach to.

My intent was to mount the board vertically, as you can see in the following image of the nearly-finished rack. I've still got to rig up the latch mechanism for the end beams which support the board, as well as mount the end caps that cover the sharp edges of the Minitec.

One of the first hurdles I had to overcome was this small dowel pin, drilled and pressed into the frame just below the opening where slot nuts are intended to be inserted. I assume it's to act as a datum for any other mounts that go in and down, in that nothing mounts lower than this. However, in my configuration, I needed to install the lower cross beam as low as possible (just above my left binding).

Here you can see the pin which hinders movement of slot nuts inserted into the T-slot of the profile.

The nuts can be inserted by removing the lower bolt mount on either side of the frame. The bolts are secured in their mounts by a rubber O-ring, which must first carefully be pried off the bolt. One the bolt is removed, an M8 socket head screw secures the mount to the end of the profile, which is tapped.

Carefully remove the O-ring which prevents the bolt from sliding out when the rack is not in use.

I found that even when the O-ring is properly located, it tends to jam in the bore which the bolt passes through. Be careful not to rest the frame flat on the ground resting on the bolts, or they will jam in the holes.

After removing the bolt, loosen the M8 SHCS which secures the bolt mount to the end of the profile.

The end of the profile is now accessable to slide in a nut.

I cut the lengths of Minitec at 1 000 mm and 800 mm (offset 200 mm on the right side, as the boards will mount on the left side of the frame). I drilled two holes in each length, to facilitate tightening of M8 screws into the slot nuts in the profile. The nuts ride on the back slot of the Minitec and into the square nut inserted into the profile behind. This doesn't leave much room for adjustment (as the bolts can only be tightened when they rest in one position).

Tightening the first section of profile into the rack with M8 SHCS and square nuts.

The two cross members in place to facilitate mounting of the forks.

From the upper and lower cross pieces, I mounted 2 pieces each 300 mm long extending straight out, to clamp against the board. While the lower section will bear the load of the snowboard on the left binding, the upper member will stabalize the board from moving laterally. Both sections will be fitted with clamps/latches.

Minitec Powerlocks secure the forks to the horizontal sections.

Close-up of a Powerlock union. I prefer it to mk's "tension plug" method of securing pieces of extrusion at right angles.

A couple of shots of the nearly-complete snowboard rack.

There are a few cleanup things I still need to do, obviously, but the basic functionality is there. I've added a gusset to the bottom of the left fork which bears the load of the board to prevent it from bending under the load/vibration. I'm going to be very cautious the first few times out, checking the tension. I should have used Loctite on all the joints, but until I get my car, I want to make sure I've got the dimensions on the lower bolt spacing correct before I start locking anything down.

Hope this has given some of the other boarders out there a few ideas!

-Iain

Edited February 16, 2010 by Duck

[IMSMRT 0]

Awesome job Duck!!!

Amazing what you can find at work huh?

I do have questions and maybe it will be obvious when it is completed but how are you securing the snowboards in the rack? Do you intend to lock the boards to the rack to prevent theft? And how will you bindings hold up being side loaded holding the board up?

It really looks great and you really put some thought and effort into the design. Get a patent quick!

S

[RichHelms 1]

Wow, I am impressed. You might want to put some covering on the end of the bars to avoid someone brushing them and cutting themself

[Duck 16]

I searched high and low for 45 mm endcaps, and I could find none in our shop. I think we used them all up! I'll definatley be putting them on the ends of the profile, though. 8 might just happen to go missing from one of our current projects....

I've caught my head many times on the corner of extrusion while ducking under machines - it's as sharp as glass when it's cut, if you don't file the edges! I have the scars to prove it!

-Iain

[SmartieParts 12]

That looks really great Iain! Great job!

- Steven

[Gent 1]

Cool! Too bad you couldn't rig it like a wing. LOL.

[bsmart 0]

Nice.

Maybe we can get the moderator to move it to the How To section?

[Duck 16]

Sorry - I put this in this forum because I thought it was more of a modification of an existing piece of equipment. My bad!

(Went up to Mt. St. Louis-Moonstone yesterday... absolutely the most perfect day ever to start the boarding season. Perfect clear skies, not too crowded, decent conditions... ahh.)

-Iain

[Duck 16]

I finished the rack off tonight. Do you guys know what a stomp pad is? If not, it's a rubber pad that snowboarders put on their board, next to their non-forward foot binding. Basically, you always have your leading foot in the front binding, secured (for me, I ride goofy, or backward, so that's my right foot forward). My left foot is strapped in only when I'm going down the hill... any other time, going up the lift, geting to the hill, whatever, it's out and you use it to push. But if you stand just back on the board temporairily, your foot slides around... so you use a stomp pad. A little rubber adhesive thing that goes next to your binding.

Where was I going with this? Oh, right! So, for a stomp pad on my board, I bought these little adhesive clear dots. Look way better than some of the other types I've seen around. So I used some of those on the insides surfaces of the "forks" that secure the board.

To pinch the forks against the board, I put two bolts coming out of the side of each of the forks. I bought two nice short bungee straps, which wrap from the rear bolt, around the front bolt, across to the other side of the fork, then back up to the front bolt again. This not only prevents the board from sliding out, but pinches the rubber dots against the board. The friction is sufficent to keep the board very firmly in place!

I'm really happy with how this turned out. I just can't wait to give it a real feild test!

And, just for fun, here's a shot from yesterday (aka the most perfect and anticipated moment of the year... FIRST RUN!):

-Iain

Edited February 16, 2010 by Duck

[slimwagn 0]

wowowo, 'the most anticipated moment of the year'? soooo getting your smart is secondary? that hurts! i'm crushed! maybe we will delay delivery until i'm done reading your smart book you lent me. good yes? ;-)

[Duck 16]

Hey, don't you have work to do? Like all this "PDI" nonsence I'm paying for that is holding up my car right now?

-Iain

[Duck 16]

Today I finally got around to mounting the rack. Earlier in the week I had discovered a problem: the lower cross-piece of extrusion ran directly through my licence plate!

Not wanting to get the Police upset, I decided to simply modify the rack by lowering the bottom piece and allowing the top binding to take the load of the board, shifting the angle piece up top, too.

Here are some shots of the finished rack:

Before modification

After modification

I drove about 200-250 km today with my board attached to test it at highway speeds, no probelm. It's actually pretty funny, it sticks up far enough that I can see it over my shoulder through the glass roof.

The only thing is, no one really noticed the car before. With the board attached, everyone gawks. It's crazy!

-Iain

Edited February 16, 2010 by Duck

[MikeT 744]

That is way cool! It looks like something smart themselves would be proud to sell. I see you put end caps on the extrusions, nice.So are you willing/able to make more of them? You seem to have a great thing going there!

[SmartieParts 12]

The only thing is, no one really noticed the car before. With the board attached, everyone gawks. It's crazy!

They noticed... they are just forcing themselves not to stare like they used to

[Crazy Commuter 0]

So, how do I get one of those ;-) ??

I love your rack man.

Or, Ryan's joke... 'hey man, nice rack!'

[Duck 16]

Glad I'm not the only boarder on the forums

I'd be happy to help you out making one, if you like it! You'll have to buy the "Basic Rack" (Ryan can hook you up), and if you're serious, just let me know. I can cut/drill the extra lengths of extrusion and we can go from there.

Warning! It's probably a lot crappier than it looks! It's stable and rigid, but it could probably be done a lot, lot nicer.

Warning! If you're one of the people in Cait's "riding in the back" thread that is against that practice, you're also probably going to note that you're not allowed to modify or stick anything on the basic rack. So, I've already broken probably half the rules of the car by doing what I've done. I'm actually Satan! So, I can't be responsible if your board flies off and kills thousands of innocent children or animals on the highway!

-Iain

[SmartieParts 12]

OH THE HUMANITY!!!

[IMSMRT 0]

nice rack Duck. Even nicer dig.

S

[Crazy Commuter 0]

Hey Duck,

Remember that snowboard "clamp" I was trying to explain to you in my basement the other week? Well, I sent the specks off to my dad (as I have no metal cutting/bending/heating aparati). He tells me they are done and in the mail, so I'll get them mounted and take some pictures ASAP and you too will see my vision (you may not hear the same voices I do though).

I'll be taking the rack and snowboard on a their maiden voyage to Whiteface in Lake Placid, NY via Montreal, as I have to pick up my vehicle-challenged brother.

[Duck 16]

That's awesome news Bill! Good stuff!

I sadly think I'm going to abandon the rack idea. I did end up jetting randomly to Holiday Valley last weekend for my birthday (sorry I didn't call you first, honestly it was a last minute thing and I was only there for about 1.5 hours!), and I think I ruined the bottom of my board in the process. The roadstuff I think is comming up and crapping up the bottom of the board. I had it waxed/sharpened and now I'm just sliding it in my board bag inside the car over my passenger seat - seems like it's better for the deck. Was just out tonight at Chicopee and it amazes me how much of a difference a good wax/sharpen makes, I really gotta learn how to do that myself and do it often!

Are you going to go through with having a bag still over the board when it's mounted on the rack?

-Iain

[MikeT 744]

That struck me about the ski carrier too - you'd be best off putting skis and your board in a waterproof bag as long as it's on the rear. If you do that, it'd be just fine, plus no-one could see what's inside (brand, I mean - e.g. Buttox).

[RichHelms 1]

I used to work in the ski business years ago. It amazed me how people would transport their skis on a roof rack and not clean/dry them afterwards. Then they would complain about dull edges and such. Their logic was they get wet in the snow so they can take it. The hills don't have salt though and even on the hills, it is important to dry skis off after a day skiing. The edges do not take well to having water on them for an extended period of time.

I agree with Mike T, make/buy a bag. Again you have to open the bag and clean/dry them after the day. A bag traps the melted snow in even better and helps them rust faster. It is worth learning how to sharpen edges. I did ballet skiiing for years and few shops knew how to sharpen ballet skis. The base is convex not flat for better spinning. Also I could control where it was sharpened and where it was dull. On ballet skis the very front and back are dull. You can also keeps the PTex base repaired.

[Crazy Commuter 0]

Yeah dude, I do use a bag, which get's pretty mucked up.... so far I've used my rack to travel to Montreal, pick up a 2nd snowboard, drive 3 hours south to Whiteface (Lake Placid, NY) then 6 or 7 hours back to St. Catharines.

Pros: niether snowboard fell off, nor moved from place, good sight lines around the board

Cons: my clamp system does not allow for really 'easy' use, there is a lot of fidgeting to get the board on/off

I really think your rack was a great design, can you not modify it to allow for the snowboard in a bag? a 2nd snowboard?

[Duck 16]

Last night I went to BoardZone in Waterloo (on University) to get my bindings repaired and I asked about cheap snowboard bags... $25 later I've finally got a complete solution. Works great, and it's tight! It fits perfectly snugly on my rack and looks great! Who-hoo! No more road crap ruining the deck. Now if the weather would just improve a lil' bit...

-Iain

[bilgladstone 13]

They do exist. See here: CLICKY for a picture of qa bicycle roof rack fitted to a smart in Russia.

It fastens somehow to the tridion with no actual weight bearing on the glass roof.