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Ghost

Car won't start.

21 posts in this topic

Hi,hate to post this one here......Last Friday I stopped at a gas station, filled up, locked the car to pay, came back, unlocked, foot on brake-pedal, key in pos. 1, all lights in dash on, "N" is shown in the center, key on pos. 2 after a few seconds - nothing. Car won't start.Tried it many times, couldn.t get it going.Called CAA, they gave me a boost - nothing. Towed to Canadian Tire - they refused to touch a Smart. Towed again to a small shop in Bracebridge, they were willing to check it. Called them, later from work - they said they checked all the connections and fuses - all OK. Then they saw that "key-symbol" in the dash, checked the manual, locked and unlocked the car and it worked right away.OK, that was NOT the problem in the morning, I know about the "key-symbol" and what to do......OK, car worked again, paid 160 dollar for that, all good over the weekend, this morning I parked it at a store here in town, came back 10 minutes later - same thing again. Car won't start, no matter what I do.I am really desperate, bought it 2 weeks ago, the second time big trouble.Any idea? What can I( do? What could it be???Thanks,Ghost

Edited by Ghost

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Sorry to hear of your trouble!Does the engine turn at all? Do the instrument lights dim down when trying to start? And, you did make sure the immobilizer (key symbol on dash) was off, right?Give us a little more info, and see if we can help further...

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Hi again,the engine is not turning at all, the dash-lights do NOT dimm when I turn the key.And no, NO key-symbol......When I move into "1" or "R", I hear a sound like a chain or something....... I hear the same sound when I turn the ignitio off.....That sound is not new, that was there all the time.Now, when I turn the key, I hear another sound, like a high pich tone........ cvan't really describe it......I think it's so weird, the problem appeared on Friday, "fixed itself"....... waas goen for 2 days, no it just appeared again.OK, my starting procedure: Unlock car, foot on brake, turn on pos. 1, wait until N is shown in dash and "Diesel light" turns off (2005 CDI),then key on pos. 2 for ignition.Unfortunately that won't happen......What is a solenoid???Ghost

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Do your headlights flash 9 times after you lock your doors? If so the battery in the key has to be replaced.

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Some goofy thoughts on my part.If you unlock the car and then don't start it within about ten minutes, it will default to the immobilized state. Mine will not clear the key symbol in position one, I need to move it back to position zero and press the unlock twice and then go to one (wait for the glow plugs and shift into neutral) then turn to position two to start it.It sounds like one of two basic things. The car won't start or it is being told that it should not start. My first thought is that the car still thinks it is not in neutral. Try going through a few gear changes before trying to start it. Maybe even see if it is still in gear when it shows neutral on the dash by rolling the car a foot or so.

Edited by gordo.bernard

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Based on the experience with my car, I would say the connector on the wire at the solenoid doesn't have good contact with the spade terminal. I keep a 2 foot long blade screwdriver and flashlight in the car at all times now and if it won't turn over, jiggle the connector to clean up the connection. P.S. I assume you are fully versed in the roll starting procedure for this car?

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Yes, I know the starting procedure........ I am singing it in my dreams already!OK, all indications are for a broken starter, got CAA to tow it to my mechanic, he will check the Smart tomorrow.I am not too worried, I bought the warranty and all should be covered.It's just a pain in the butt - you buy a car like that to escape the worries of the old piece of pop (sorry), and within the first 2 weeks I need CAA twice........ well, guess there is no such thing then a reliable car!Whith all the warranties you can buy - the inconvenience is always on you. Another day wasted today, that was my day off,7 days with 12-hour shifts are following....Will update tomorrow with news from "Mike the mechanic" (that's not a joke, his name IS Mike...)Ghost

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Update on the situation:The mechanic who checked it today is not willing to fix the Smart - he is not familiar with it.....Running out of options now - ordered a tow-truck to bring it to Mercedes Benz in Barrie.More to follow....Ghost

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It's good that he knows his limitations.If it's the altenator the engine needs to be lowered to access it.Did you call the place where you bought your smart?

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It's good that he knows his limitations.If it's the altenator the engine needs to be lowered to access it.Did you call the place where you bought your smart?

Yes, I did. I had to make lots of pressure, now they agreed to pay for the towing to Barrie and cover the 100 dollar deductible of my warranty.If I had a chance I would have returned the car already, unfortunately you are not protected by the law as a buyer.......It;s not the altenator, that was changed in March this year at the Mercedes dealership in Kitchener, found the receipt in the manual......I will know more by tomorrow (hopefully)Ghost

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Update on my problems......Mercedes did the diagnoses on my Smart, took them a while to find the problem (thank god it's a flat-rate for the diagnose).The wiring-harness is defective, some wires are simply broken off right at the elbow underneath the ignition cylinder.Now - nobody can tell me how that can happen........ I never heard about that before!Anyways, they will replace the defective wires, check the rest of the wiring.The diagnose costs $ 116,00 flat at Mercedes Benz in Barrie, they will charge 2 hours labour to fix the problem and a fewparts to repair, totyakl will be around $ 400.00. Not great - but it could be worse........Just weird, has anyone ever had a problem like that with a Smart?Ghost

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I have had to replace my engine wiring harness due to corrosion. Several have been replaced. The wiring is poor quality, just bare copper. A coated copper would stand up to the elements much better but might cost a few dollars more per car.To note this type of copper wiring is universally used by all manufacturers.

Edited by Huronlad

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Picked him up tonight at the Mercedes dealership in Barrie.Good things first: He started just fine, a nice smooth ride home to Orillia.But:As soon as I started him I realized the "check-engine" light would stay on. That was not the case before he went to repair.and:While I was driving home it was getting dark, turned on the light and heard a funny sound in the dash.....At home I checked that, when the ignition is on and I turn the lights on a sound appears, sounds like a fan,it's right in the dashboard. Stops when I turn the lights off.I picked him up after hours, nobody was at Mercedes anymore when I was there. Have to call tyhem tomorrow.Any idea what could be wrong???Ghost

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... turned on the light and heard a funny sound in the dash.... Stops when I turn the lights off... Any idea what could be wrong???

Electric light aim motor? A known fail.:senile:

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Electric light aim motor? A known fail.:senile:

What is that again? Expensive to fix???Smartie seems to turn into a money pit........Ghost

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The constantly running headlight aiming motors aren't as common as the leaky a/c systems, the non-latching door handles, the stuck egr valves, the leaking intercoolers, or the broken front springs.Probably as common as the side air bags that deploy sometimes when the car encounters a bad bump in the road.It is a highly sophisticated little money pit, but I love my smart car. They don't all exhibit these symptoms and most of the people on this very helpful board will have experienced at least some of the common problems.

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If you switch the car on and turn on the headlights, get out and put your ear to the headlights and see if you can hear the little electric motor running. It's just a guess, but this will tell you.A few in here have had this problem, but I don't recall what the fix was or how much it may have cost...Bil :sun:

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