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Graham

Removing carpet

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Our '06 has seen salt, and the original carpets have some wear and water stains. There is also what looks like salt around the accelerator pedal. And one of the driver side seat supports has some surface rust. (see pics)post-8531-1284654072_thumb.jpgpost-8531-1284654046_thumb.jpgLooks like the carpet is one-piece and that the seats will have to come out in order to remove it?Can seats be removed together with the support frames - just 4 Torx bolts? Or do they come out first, then the frames?The carpet appears to go under the centre console and shift surround. How is the shift surround removed?On this model (06 cdi) do I have to disconnect battery first? Do air bags need any attention after reconnecting?Accelerator pedal flange has 4 bolts - Does carpet lift out once those are removed?Brake pedal boot - does carpet lift over it?Anything else have to be removed?Is there a How-To somewhere on line? (Search didn't bring up much)I want to inspect the floor pan, paint the seat support where rusted, wash the salt out of the carpet and probably re-dye it. Maybe I don't have to remove the whole carpet? - Would it be possible to just disconnect it at front driver side and fold it back enough to inspect the underside and get at the pedal area and seat support to clean and paint?It would be great to get some input from others who have done this.

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You may be the first person to try this so good luck.I assume you've looked at the Evilution site? It may be your only hope.If you are really going to plunge in and remove the carpet, take lots of pictures as you go along. This may help (or discourage) others from attempting this.Disconnecting the battery will help, but sometimes codes get set when wiring harnesses don't get reinstalled just exactly so.Humans put it together so there should be no reason why humans can't take it apart (and put it back together).Heading into our sixth Toronto winter, I have been crazy careful about keeping fresh cotton towels under the all weather mats. It has paid off - the carpets remain salt free and the only rust has been a spot at the front of the driver's seat rail at carpet level (fixed with black gloss Tremclad). I also pull the carpet up on both sides and wax the floor.The only wear on the carpet is where I should have installed a kick pad for the left wheelwell. Never liked the look of the aluminum ones, so I just live with the result.

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You may be the first person to try this so good luck.I assume you've looked at the Evilution site? It may be your only hope.If you are really going to plunge in and remove the carpet, take lots of pictures as you go along. This may help (or discourage) others from attempting this.Disconnecting the battery will help, but sometimes codes get set when wiring harnesses don't get reinstalled just exactly so.Humans put it together so there should be no reason why humans can't take it apart (and put it back together).Heading into our sixth Toronto winter, I have been crazy careful about keeping fresh cotton towels under the all weather mats. It has paid off - the carpets remain salt free and the only rust has been a spot at the front of the driver's seat rail at carpet level (fixed with black gloss Tremclad). I also pull the carpet up on both sides and wax the floor.The only wear on the carpet is where I should have installed a kick pad for the left wheelwell. Never liked the look of the aluminum ones, so I just live with the result.

I am sure others must have done it! I did see one post where an owner made new carpets. I did check the Evilution site - It covered removing just the seats.So, you can pull carpets up enough to get under to wax the floor pan? That might be enough for me? Any trick to doing that?The salt/water stain is on the footrest/wheelwell. Did not know there was a kickpad available for that. Not sure I would want aluminum either. A black rubber or even a removal piece of carpet might be OK though.Regarding plunging in - I have done that before - head first :)Beforepost-8531-1284658414_thumb.jpgAfterpost-8531-1284658632_thumb.jpg Edited by Graham

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Regarding plunging in - I have done that before - head first :)Beforepost-8531-1284658414_thumb.jpgAfterpost-8531-1284658632_thumb.jpg

Just looking at the pictures, all I can say is 'Nice job!"

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I would start by removing the accelerator pedal:Loosen the 4 plastic nuts with a 10mm socket with a long extension. Disconnect the cable to the throttle pedal, there's a tab you have to press and then it pulls out. A somewhat firm pull is needed to get it out because it is sealed with weather-stripping, but you should not have to force it. Avoid pulling by the wires! Try to grip the plastic connector itself instead. Most of the salt and staining will be in this area and can be cleaned up with the pedal rem'd.Good luck :D

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I would start by removing the accelerator pedal:Loosen the 4 plastic nuts with a 10mm socket with a long extension. Disconnect the cable to the throttle pedal, there's a tab you have to press and then it pulls out. A somewhat firm pull is needed to get it out because it is sealed with weather-stripping, but you should not have to force it. Avoid pulling by the wires! Try to grip the plastic connector itself instead. Most of the salt and staining will be in this area and can be cleaned up with the pedal rem'd.Good luck :D

Thanks! Actually I just did that, but couldn't see how to unplug the wires, so did it in place. I had the start of some corrosion at the lowest point of the pan under the pedal . I have cleaned it all up and given the metal a coat of POR-15. There was quite a bit of dirt and salt under there. Once it's dry, I will use some carpet cleaner and see how the carpets look. I may give the bad areas a shot of black carpet dye. But next step, is to repair rust on seat support. It is not too easy to get at with the carpet in place. I am off to buy some Tork wrenches. I am hoping I can loosen the seat frame and lift it up enough to do a proper job of cleaning and coating the rusted area. (Did that - 4 bolts and I can lift seat and frame up for repair. Floor pan looks OK.)BTW - Those accelerator wires are kind of fragile - not a good place to have corrosion. I think I will give them a good wrap with tape.PS: On way to get Tork bits, I heard something fall of the 300D - Looked back and the Smart's mats were in the middle of the road - And it was raining :unsure: . One oncoming car drove over them, the other kindly missed them! Luckily they are no worse for wear! I guess I had set them on the top of the 300D! Edited by Graham

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I have taken out the seats etc. no biggy. but getting all the carpet out is fun - partially did this to clean a spill.Remove battery thing - disconnect batteryTake seats out - easiest to take them off the pedestals - 4 torx each then remove the pedestals - 4 more torx - they are in there real good (loctite) so use an impact driver so you dont' strip the heads, don't forget to disconnect the airbags and the seatbelt connectorRemove the console between the seats - look at Evilutions siteCarpet is tucked in around the foot wheel - you will need to remove the gas pedal and loosen the bottom of the trim by the pedestal for the accessoriesCarpet is backed by some heavy foam that splits real easy so don't be heaving on it hard and it is heavyThere is a split between the front and the back - it is under the tail end of the seat - so if you want to take the back out you have to take the seats out as wellIf you are just doing the floor pans you can leave the centre console in.Cheers,Cameron

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I have taken out the seats etc. no biggy. but getting all the carpet out is fun - partially did this to clean a spill.Remove battery thing - disconnect batteryTake seats out - easiest to take them off the pedestals - 4 torx each then remove the pedestals - 4 more torx - they are in there real good (loctite) so use an impact driver so you dont' strip the heads, don't forget to disconnect the airbags and the seatbelt connectorRemove the console between the seats - look at Evilutions siteCarpet is tucked in around the foot wheel - you will need to remove the gas pedal and loosen the bottom of the trim by the pedestal for the accessoriesCarpet is backed by some heavy foam that splits real easy so don't be heaving on it hard and it is heavyThere is a split between the front and the back - it is under the tail end of the seat - so if you want to take the back out you have to take the seats out as wellIf you are just doing the floor pans you can leave the centre console in.Cheers,Cameron

Thanks Cameron!Doesn't sound too bad. I have driver side seat sufficiently out, along with pedal to do what I need. I still need to properly inspect the floor pans (quick look said they were fine) and that will determine if the carpets should come out.

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Our '06 has seen salt, and the original carpets have some wear and water stains. There is also what looks like salt around the accelerator pedal. And one of the driver side seat supports has some surface rust. (see pics)post-8531-1284654072_thumb.jpgpost-8531-1284654046_thumb.jpg

In the end, I just loosened one seat frame and lifted it. I also took the pedal assembly out and then lifted the carpets enough to inspect the floor pans. It wasn't in bad condition at all. But I did notice a little paint bubbling on passenger side, so scraped the paint off and recoated. Some pics:Close up of salt stains around pedal (see also pics in quote above)post-8531-1284853156_thumb.jpgAfter reinstalling pedal (but before dyeing carpet)post-8531-1284853182_thumb.jpgPainted seat support legs with POR-15post-8531-1284853213_thumb.jpgPassenger floor seam after scraping bubbled paint (I then painted with POR-15.post-8531-1284853193_thumb.jpgThe floor pans were actually in good shape - but pleased I was able to get under there and clean out the dirt and salt. Also cleaned up teh pedal area which was really bad and re-wrapped the wires with tape.The carpet dye made a reasonable job of covering the salt stains on the left wheel well. But, this area has no protection. Is there a smart add-on to protect this part of the carpet?The car came with the velour mats (maybe they were standard on Passion?). They are OK, but driver side a bit worn. We won't drive the car in winter, but was thinking of buying the 450 winter mats, more just as floor protectors, because the velour shows the dirt very quickly. Are there any advantages in using the 451 winter mats, given my no-snow use?

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Where did you get the carpet dye and what's it called?Looking to dye my Black/blue carpet black (wanna get rid of everything blue)

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Where did you get the carpet dye and what's it called?Looking to dye my Black/blue carpet black (wanna get rid of everything blue)

They have it at CT - Called something like vinyl and fabric dye in the touch up paint section. Various colours including black! Places like Napa probably have it too.

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With the rust in that seam now, you ought to have a look at it from the underside of the car and see if that also needs any work or sealing. the pan has to come off to have a look.I find that the ONLY product that permanently kills rust is ZINGA. It's the cold galvanizing system that is used to treat the welds on galvanized fencing. So if the rust comes back, get some Zinga.

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With the rust in that seam now, you ought to have a look at it from the underside of the car and see if that also needs any work or sealing. the pan has to come off to have a look.

I find that the ONLY product that permanently kills rust is ZINGA. It's the cold galvanizing system that is used to treat the welds on galvanized fencing. So if the rust comes back, get some Zinga.

Actually, there was no real rust on the floor pan or in the seam despite what the pictures seem to say. Just some discoloration of the surface. The paint had just bubbled and I scraped it off to expose those areas. Of course something caused the paint to bubble, so there must have been the start of corrosion.

Zinga?? I thought you said galvanizing didn't stop rust ? :0 :) I read up about Zinga. Sounds like a good product for it's intended uses. We used something like that in the chemical industry on steel structures and stacks. The 10kg container should do a whole smart and then some :)

If you haven't tried POR-15, have a look at it. It's a favourite with classic car restorers. I have used it for over 20 years. First time was a low area in the trunk of my '72 SL - there was practically no metal left - just rust. The area is still rock solid with no sign of any further rust 19 years after application. POR stands for Paint Over Rust and that is literally what you do - no extensive surface prep needed. I plan on using it on the underside of the smart where there are some rust spots. May do driveshafts too.

I will look at the underside of the floor pans, and every where else for that matter! That's when I get a chance - It's my wife's daily driver and she is back home!

Edited by Graham

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Zinga?? I thought you said galvanizing didn't stop rust ? :0 :) I read up about Zinga. Sounds like a good product for it's intended uses. We used something like that in the chemical industry on steel structures and stacks.

The few microns of Zn on galvanized sheet steel doesn't have much to sacrifice to the god of corrosion, compared to the 0.5 mm of ZINGA that I would normally put on.When my 404 C is restored, it'll be getting all new OE sheet steel, no POR or Zinga!

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